Christmas Banana and Bacon Dog Treat Recipe

by Amy Tokic

December 18th, 2021 12:00 AM

christmas banana and bacon dog treat recipe

It’s beginning to smell a lot like Christmas! I love to bake, especially during the holiday season. But man, do I hate the extra weight that comes along with eating all those goodies. That’s why homemade dog treats are the answer – I can indulge my baking crave without having to taste test… I leave that to Oscar and Zed. And they were more than happy to oblige and gobbled down these Christmas Banana and Bacon dog treats. Whip up a batch for your pooch’s stocking!

Ingredients:

4 cups whole wheat flour

¼ cup of oats

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 egg

1 banana, mashed

½ cup peanut butter

2 tablespoons honey

1 cup milk or almond milk

1 tablespoon olive oil

½ cup bacon, cooked and crumbled

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350°F. Line cookie sheets with parchment paper.
In a large mixing bowl, mix together wet ingredients – milk, peanut butter, egg, olive oil, and banana – until smooth
Add in flour, oats, bacon bites (you can save ¼ cup to sprinkle on top of cookies), and baking powder and mix until a dough forms. If it’s too sticky, add more flour.
Flour your countertop and roll the dough out to ¼ inch thickness. Cut into shapes using a cookie cutter. Place on cookie sheets.
Brush treats with an egg wash and sprinkle them with bacon bits, lightly pressing them into the treats.
Place cookie sheets in oven and bake for 30 minutes.
Remove from oven and let cool on racks for 2-3 hours. Keep treats stored in fridge or freeze in airtight container.

Benefits of Banana for Dogs

If you aren’t sold on these treats just on the basis of giving your dog a little something ‘special’ this holiday season, there are many health benefits associated with bananas. While your dog’s treats should only be a small portion of his overall food calorie intake, offering treats with high-quality ingredients can add some great benefits! Not only are bananas delicious and budget-friendly, but they also offer great health benefits.

Bananas are a great source of fiber for any dogs that are struggling with constipation, diarrhea, or other symptoms of gastro upset. They support your dog’s digestive system, helping to prevent blockages that may occur from fur balls from grooming and other potential blockages. They are also high in Vitamin C and B6, Magnesium, Potassium, and Biotin. This means that they will help to promote healthier skin, coat quality, bone growth, bone density, and muscle development.

In addition to the health benefits that bananas offer, they are also a healthier alternative to other potential ingredients with higher sugar content or troublesome fats. Always take the time to read the ingredients on any treats that you are offering your pup to avoid troublesome ingredients that could lead to health complications.

Amy Tokic

Amy Tokic, Editor of PetGuide.com, is a passionate animal lover and proud pet parent of Oscar, a Shih Tzu/Chihuahua cross, and Zed, a Japanese Chin. Her love of animals began in kindergarten, when she brought her stuffed dog Snoopy into class with her every day. Now, she writes about her adventures in pet ownership and tirelessly researches products, news and health related issues she can share with other animal enthusiasts. In her free time, Amy loves perusing used book and record stores, obsessing over the latest pet products available and chasing squirrels with wild abandon (a habit attributed to spending too much time with her pooches).

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How to Keep Your Cat Safe This Halloween

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Adoptable Dog of the Week - Lupi

Cute as a button and sweet as they come, this handsome fella is looking for someone to love him forever! Our Adoptable Dog of the Week is Lupi, a 2 years old Spaniel mix from Marina del Rey, California. He is neutered, up to date with his vaccinations, housetrained, and crate trained. Lupi is a friendly pooch that gets along with other dogs but hasn’t had a chance to be tested around other dogs. Lupi’s TaleUnique-looking and with a lovely personality, Lupi will make someone a perfect companion. He is very smart and eager to please, so he is already house trained and crate trained, and is working on his manners when walking on a leash. Luckily, he’s a fast learner and would do anything for praise and treats, so he’ll master this skill in no time, too! Sweet and affectionate, Lupi loves spending quality time with people close to him. He’ll adore the attention, petting, and cuddles with his special human – he thrives on affection and will shower you with love in return. Lupi will return your love tenfold! If you want a laid-back, pleasant pooch with good manners, he’s your guy for sure.Lupi is definitely curious about other canines and gets along just fine with other dogs, but he’s not overly enthusiastic about dogs that are too playful and energetic. A doggie sibling with a similar, calm, and laid-back personality would be the perfect fit, but Lupi would also do perfectly fine as the only pet in the family. He’s small at 17 lbs and would do equally well in an apartment or in a home with a backyard. Lupi hasn’t been tested around cats and kids, so if you have a pet cat or children in the family, be sure to inquire about a potential meet and greet.If you're interested in learning more about Lupi or the adoption process, contact Forte Animal Rescue for more information.

Feeding Your Pet Clean Food is Easy With Nutro – Feed Clean

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Devastating Statistics Show an Increase in Euthanasia of Cats and Dogs

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Adoptable Dog of the Week - Nona

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How to Litter Train a Rabbit

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Rabbits are known to poop only in certain nooks and corners where they know they won’t be disturbed or in danger. They love their privacy, after all! And it is up to you to place the litter in a safe and comfy nook where no one will disturb your bunny while they do their thing.If you already spot them peeing or pooping into one of the corners, place the litter box there – easy peasy. Of course, if it just so happens that they miss on their first try and use another corner, just keep moving the litter box – one of the spots is bound to be right. What is more, if you see that your bunny has trouble learning the whole process (after a few days), you can always add another litter box or even a few! Place them into different corners until one of them becomes the “go-to” place. In case you and your pet are successful on the first try, and the enclosure litter box becomes the place they use, you can start letting them run about the house without worrying about accidents. If the process went well, they should follow their instinct and return to the enclosure and the litter box when nature calls. However, if you spot them getting ready to “do the business” anywhere else, use a commanding tone of voice to stop them and to usher them towards the litter box as a gentle reminder. Still, if it happens that they poop somewhere else while you are not looking, just place the poop into the litter box – this is a great reminder. #4 More Is MoreKeep in mind that you are not limited to a single litter box. To help your bunny understand, you can place several boxes in and out of the rabbit enclosure. They’ll probably use multiple litter boxes at first and then gravitate towards a single one that suits their preferences the most, which is when you can safely remove the others without having to worry about your bunny doing their business all over the place.In no time, you will see how easy and straightforward this process can be – especially with spayed and neutered rabbits. They often choose just one place for their needs, and you just follow and put the litter there. Quick and easy. ConclusionWhen rabbits are spayed or neutered, the process of litter training them can be surprisingly successful. Once you pick out the right type of litter and a proper litter box for bunnies, you can start with setting it up in their enclosure or the place you’ve noticed they usually go potty – alternatively, you can place multiple ones around the home until they find the location they prefer the most. In the end, it’s important to remember that it can be a process of trial and error, and it may take you a few turns before you get the exact right type of litter, the environment setup, and the proper pace. Arm yourself with patience and persistence, adjust as needed, and success will follow in no time – you will have a perfectly litter-trained rabbit!

How to Train Your Dog to Leave the Cat Alone

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According to the American Kennel Club (AKC), whoever is being newly introduced to the home should be permitted to wander and become comfortable with the new environment. During this time, you could even share blankets and toys to allow them to pick up a more personal scent from their soon-to-be roommate.After the first day, consider placing their food bowls on opposite sides of a closed door. Feeding is a positive time in a pet’s day and allowing them to smell one another’s food and hear one another eating can help nudge the inevitable face-to-face, into becoming a more positive and less stressful experience.IntroductionsWhen it’s time for them to meet, never assume it will be as easy as simply opening the door and walking away. You’ll need to consider the personalities of both pets before you move forward with that all-important introduction. And if your cat tends to be territorial, she may come out fighting. A stressed-out feline can deliver dangerous, painful scratches that take those hard-won intros right back to square one - and possibly, you to the vet with your pup.Additionally, if your new dog is a breed that tends to have a high-prey drive - including terriers, hounds and herding breeds – plan to be heavily hands-on during this important stage.You know your pets best, so based on their known personalities, energy levels, breed characteristics, and territorial tendencies, we’re sharing a few different approaches to successfully introducing a new pet to the mix.1) If your dog or cat is already established in the home and you know them to be confident and likely territorial you may want to introduce a crate or carrier to the meet-and-greet process. After an initial two-day separation phase, bring them out and set them up in their carrier for 20 to 30 minutes. Include a few favorite treats and let the new pet wander around. This will give each of them that all-important first visual of the new addition without the opportunity to attack or chase. Again, just short sessions, several times a day with your already-established pet being moved back to their separate space in between intros. Eventually open the carrier door to allow them to exit if they so choose - and particularly for cats, only if she’s no longer showing signs of aggression.For skittish cats that hide around strangers, an out-in-the-open introduction isn't going to be the right approach. Read on, for other options.2) For dogs that have mastered the basic commands, you may want to consider using a “sit”, “stay”, “lay down”, or “leave it” approach that allows both animals to roam freely, but ensures your dog will instantly halt if the cat becomes wary or stressed. This less-structured method will also require your feline to have a readily accessible “escape space” such as under a bed, on top of a counter or high up on a shelf, where she can feel safe if necessary. This is an ideal method for felines who tend to be cautious but curious. Again, it would be used following the initial two-day separation period and will require you to be present throughout, to carefully monitor the situation and reward your pooch with treats when he obeys and/or ignores the cat.If your dog is still working on his commands and you’re not convinced he’ll readily obey, consider leashing him while you work through this method of introduction.3) When dealing with a young, boisterous pup who could possibly harm a smaller or older feline even after the initial separation process, you may want to take a more proactive approach. Consider an interim step by using an open-air, basket-style muzzle while you train the benefits of leaving the cat alone. The muzzle is only to be used when training a more respectful behavior – not throughout the day as a safeguard for when you’re not around. Over time and as his command training completes, you shouldn’t need the muzzle at all. And to prevent your dog from associating the muzzle with punishment, always insert a tasty treat or two for him to discover and enjoy. 4) If you’ve never tried clicker training, it’s a highly effective way to get the attention of a distracted dog and get him to respond to commands. While typically used for the five basic commands of sit, stay, lay down, heel and leave it, a clicker can also direct your dog to leave the cat alone. As with all other introductory methods, you should allow a two or three-day period of separation with gradual sensory awareness that ensures the appearance of this new pet, doesn’t come as a surprise and result in a negative face-to-face. Once this has been completed and your pets are moving around within the same space, use clicker training to reward your dog each time you observe him notice the cat but leave her alone. This rewards-based training requires that you click and offer a treat, whenever your dog indicates that he’s noticed the cat.Whether he’s excited and whining or totally non-plussed, the goal is for your dog to associate the cat, with a treat. As a result, his inclination will change from chasing to looking toward you so he can get that reward he just earned for not chasing. Be consistent and expect to spend a week or more working on this method of introduction. 5) The success of this last method will depend entirely on how much your dog covets his toys. Some dogs live and breathe for a squeaky toy, frisbee or ball. For others (like mine), not so much. The goal of this style of introduction is to create a positive distraction that will have your pooch ignoring the cat and redirecting his focus toward his fun new toy. Following that important separation period and gradual introduction, interact with your dog and his new toy by playing a game with the cat nearby but not in the line of fire. Toss a ball, hide a plush toy behind your back – whatever it takes to engage his attention. If he notices the cat or becomes distracted by her, re-engage him with the toy (squeaky toys are great for grabbing his attention) and give him a treat for looking your way.Your pooch is now learning that having a fun time with you that includes a new toy and tasty treats is so much more interesting than pursuing the cat. Eventually, the novelty of chasing the cat will wear off.Calm, amiable introductions can be quick and painless or a drawn-out, seemingly never-ending work in progress. To successfully integrate your family of pets, you need to respect their triggers, watch for potential conflicts and anticipate spending days and weeks creating a stable, non-threatening environment for both. Remember, you’re not striving for world peace, just peace in your world.

Nail Clipping Versus Grinding – Which is Best and How Do You Choose?

In fact, your dog’s nails should be trimmed every three to four weeks. Not only because it looks better and you eliminate that annoying clickety-clack every time he scampers across the floor, but because those overgrown, talon-shaped nails can become uncomfortable to walk on and lead to health issues down the line. The repetitive pressure put on your dog’s foot every time that too-long nail hits the ground can actually injure tendons over time and cause his feet to deform and splay. So, let’s talk about how best to complete mani-pedis on a reluctant pooch.And we’ll start with the tools.For those who feel ready to complete this task at home, you’ll need to know about the quick. It’s a nerve that extends from the root of the nail to the tip and yes, it hurts if you nick it. The upside is that the quick recedes with the length of the nail and that means that over time it will shorten and you can clip his nails without worry that you’re causing your pet pain (or bleeding).When it comes to which tool to use, there are a few options. For smaller dogs with tiny nails, a standard toe-nail clipper may be sufficient. Just make sure you’re able to cut in a clean, single stroke for a non-ragged edge. Remember, your pup likes to scratch his ears and face from time to time and jagged tips can cause injury.For any larger breed, you’re going to want to invest in a quality set of nail clippers. Designed specifically for the task at hand, they deliver quick, precise results. And let’s face it, when you’re dealing with an uncooperative pooch, that’s exactly what you want. They come in a few different designs including a “guillotine” style of clipper that requires you simply insert the tip of your pet’s nail and squeeze the handle for a single clean cut. Then there’s the scissor-style clipper that works just like the name implies. It’s better suited to large breeds with large, thick nails that require a little extra force.And then there are grinders. Consider this gadget to be both a finishing tool that can be used after clipping to eliminate any ragged edges as well as a maintenance tool that can be used every 7 to ten days to maintain the shorter length. It comes in both a cordless design that works off batteries or can be charged, as well as an electric model that plugs into any standard outlet.So, between nail clippers and grinders, which tool is best? Let’s take a look at the advantages (and disadvantages) of both.Related: Best Dog Nail ClippersNail Clippers- Quick – Unlike grinders, clippers don’t require charging, plugging in, or batteries. This makes them easy to use anywhere and anytime a quick nail trim is required.- Precise – Specifically designed for the shape and thickness of a dog’s nail, both guillotine and scissor-style clippers are fast, accurate, and dust/smell-free.- Quiet – Particularly for dogs that are easily spooked and anxious around noise, nail clippers are quiet, easy to use and work without vibration.- One-Cut – Quality nail clippers allow you to make nice clean cuts in single snips. No need to revisit incomplete cuts, no ragged edges and no prolonging the process.- Strong – Today’s nail clipper is designed to tackle large, thick dog nails quickly and easily.The downside of nail clippers is that for any dog that has a black or dark colored nail, you’re guesstimating as to where the quick ends. It may take some practice to get it right and, in the meantime, painful clips can mean Rover is going to struggle and become highly reluctant to engage in this grooming exercise again.Related: Best Dog Nail GrindersNail Grinders- Smooth – Grinders are great for cleaning up the rough edges that can be left after your dog’s nails have been clipped.- Maintenance – Once your pet’s nails have been cut, it’s easy for you to maintain that optimal length by simply grinding them back every 7 to 10 days.- Safer – Because it’s a more gradual process, grinding your dog’s nails means it’s easier to gauge how close you’re getting to the quick. So, you can stop sooner and prevent painful nicks.- Clean-Ups – Active dogs are prone to developing ragged nail edges that can result in inadvertent injury or infection when they scratch themselves. A quick clean-up eliminates this danger.- Gentle – Not all dogs appreciate having their feet touched, so any style of nail trimming will be met with dread. But with grinding, the slower, less abrupt process can offer an opportunity to interact with your pet, provide soothing words and even offer treats. While the ease and convenience of today’s cordless nail grinders may imply it’s the perfect alternative to clipping, the challenge for your pet is the noise, dust, and vibrating sensation each time you begin the grinding process. And this tool also requires practice, because the rotating sander can heat up, snag fur and connect with tender pads.ConclusionMy two rescue pooches had nails that would rival a bald eagle. Seriously, they were talons, not nails and it’s taken a couple of years to get them down to an appropriate length. Apparently, this is common with rescue dogs because, quite frankly, nails seem to take a backseat to other, more obvious health issues. For me, groomers who were too aggressive had my gals anxious and piddling on the floor when we returned for future grooming. Others chose not to deal with my anxious dogs and left their uber-long nails intact – which exacerbated the nail trim situation. For now, we’ve reached a happy solution which is to have them clipped during grooming and ground every two weeks in between. If you’re still sitting on the proverbial fence about whether your pet’s nails need clipping, grinding, both or neither, consider the health risks and the discomfort it causes your pet when overly long nails compromise his enjoyment of his daily walks. A quick rule of thumb is that nails should not quite touch the floor when your dog is in a seated position. But if you can hear your dog walking toward you from 50 paces, it’s time to tackle those nails.

10 Most Popular Rabbit Breeds

If you’ve decided that a rabbit is a perfect pet for you or your family, you might be wondering which breed is the most compatible with your lifestyle and preferences. The world of rabbits is diverse, with 50 rabbit breeds recognized by ARBA and many more in development, so it might be difficult to narrow down your choice. Luckily, there are more than a few rabbit breeds that have consistently been the most popular choices, both for first-time owners and seasoned bunny parents, as they combine lovely looks with an even lovelier personality, making them a favorite choice for a pet rabbit for years – or decades– back. Take a look at our selection of the 10 most popular rabbit breeds for pets, and you might just meet your new best friend!

Tips and Tricks on Cooling Down a Horse

In recent years, summers have gotten incredibly hot. Temperatures are soaring high, and it is tough to escape the heat and humidity. And if it is difficult to do so for us, imagine how hard it is for our animals. Horses are among these animals that are feeling the heat most of all. If they are out on the pasture, the blazing hot sun can cause trouble, especially if the shade is scarce. And if they are in a stall too, the heat can become suffocating and humidity will rise. So, either way, trouble looms above. Heat is difficult to escape, but as an owner, you have the responsibility to cool down your horse and prevent overheating, dehydration, and sunburns. But how do you approach this issue? Here are some tips and tricks you can implement to keep your equine friend cool and comfy!Reduce the workloadFirst thing first – avoid great physical exertion during great heat. When horses are active and spend their energy, so does their body heat rise. If possible, limit their exercise, avoid heavy work, and avoid the hottest times of the day. However, if the activity can’t be avoided, then try supervising it, and implementing some of the following tips for keeping the temperatures down. Avoid direct sunlightFind adequate shade for your horse. During the hottest parts of the day, you should keep your horse away from direct sunlight. Shaded places contain cooler air, and shield the horse’s body from direct sun’s heat. Raising horses in a zero-shade environment can be dangerous, so always make sure that there is a tree nearby, an outcrop, or simply a well-built and insulated stall or stable. Anything helps as long as there is ample shade and ventilation. Of course, if your horse has to be kept in a stall or a stable, make sure that there is enough ventilation. Air circulation helps disperse hot air, and the cool breeze that is created will certainly keep your horse’s body temperature down. Make sure your stall building has ample windows evenly spaced and set at good heights.Mist or hose your horseHose your horse down, or simply use misting fans. This is a fantastic way to refresh your equine friend in the summer. You can use a simple water hose and create a spray with your finger or a nozzle – both are ideal for lowering your horse’s body temperature. Misting sprays and fans are also great. They might require a small expense, but it is certainly worth it. Just make sure that there is a power outlet nearby, and you’ll have a hands-free and efficient way of combining both cool air and a fine water mist for keeping your horse cool. Don’t forget to hydrateKeep your horse hydrated as that is one of the key ways of lowering their body temperature. Excessive heat can quickly lead to thirst and dehydration. And the latter is one of the biggest threats to their well-being, as horses require a lot of fresh water daily. When the heat rises, make sure to offer fresh cool water more often, as this will help immensely with keeping your horse cool and refreshed. Remember that there are no side effects of offering cool water to a hot horse. Of course, don’t make it icy cold – it would be a shock to your horse's system.ConclusionIn the end, it goes a long way to stay on your toes and make a busier care schedule during those hottest months of the year. Check up on your horses regularly, bring the vet over for regular checkups, and make sure that you adhere to all the rules and tips listed here. Carefully monitoring your horse and implementing all of the care tips above can greatly reduce and prevent any chances of overheating, dehydration, heat stroke, and other heat-related issues.

Horse Riding for Absolute Beginners

While incredibly fun and exciting, horse riding can also be challenging. It takes a lot of practice, a lot of preparation, and a special connection between the horse and the rider. More often than not, it takes years of patient work for riders to become professionals at riding. Of course, everyone has to start somewhere, and all beginnings can be challenging. If you are a beginner horse rider, don’t rush into things. Getting too far ahead of yourself can lead to accidents, injuries, and potentially fatal situations. Horse riding accidents are no joke, so before mounting a horse, follow these tips and tricks reserved for horse riding for absolute beginners!What to Know Before Riding a Horse – Step By Step Process for BeginnersIt would be silly to think that absolute beginners can’t ride a horse. It is not logical to think so, since everyone was an absolute beginner at one point. Still, you should not rush into it unprepared, or without professional supervision. There are many aspects to horse riding, from the abilities of the horse, to the environment, and then to you personally. Only when everything is in balance, can riding begin. First and foremost, is the safety equipment. When riding horses, safety is paramount. These are magnificent and powerful animals you are working with, and such power carries with it plenty of potential danger. Before you get up on a horse, put on your safety helmet, designed for horse riders especially. You should never mount up without your helmet on, even after years of riding. Remember that once astride, you are several feet up in the air. If you happen to fall off a horse at high speed, and from such a height, hitting your head on the ground can be fatal. It goes without saying that helmets should always be on. If you can, secure your riding boots and other horse-riding equipment. Every bit counts, not only because of safety but because of easier riding as well. Once the equipment is secured, it's riding time. Of course, if you never rode a horse, you should not begin without supervision and all on your own. Do it with professionals and on specially trained horses. But even so, you will want to stay alert at all times and composed. Don’t get too excited or relaxed, but stay on your toes mentally. Keeping on top of the situation can help you master the basics faster.When mounting up on your ride, you will want someone to hold the horse and keep it steady. A fidgety and scared horse can make mounting difficult. Now, supposing that your saddle is all hooked up and secured properly, you can proceed to climb up. Place your left foot into the stirrup while standing at your mount’s side. Don’t push your entire foot into the stirrup – just the front part. Keep the reins loose in your hand, gently rise up on your stirruped foot and swing your free leg (the right one) over the horse and onto the other side of the horse. With that, you should be able to gently sit down into the saddle and place your other foot into the other stirrup. Simple as that, you are on a horse. Of course, if this procedure is too challenging for you, you can use a special mounting block or a step ladder.Now it is on to the riding. Your horse riding instructor should tell you all the details, and the “riding” will probably be a light walk or a slow trot. Nevertheless, you should be as relaxed as possible, and not frightened. If you’re cool and collected, your horse will be calm as well. Keep the reins loose in your hands at all times and sit straight, tall, and firm. When it is time for your mount to move forward, you should give them a gentle nudge or squeeze with both of your heels. If this signal is too soft and the horse does not register it, you can bump with the heels instead, albeit gently. This is the classic cue for beginning to walk. Any other instructions from your riding instructor should also be taken into account. While walking, you can simply turn into a light trot – or a “horse jog”. Just bump the horse lightly again, in the same way as before, and they should take the cue to speed up. You will notice that the movements are different, and a lot bumpier as the horse jolts up and down. This might be odd at first, or even uncomfortable, but remember that it is all about practice and getting used to it. Listen to the instructor’s tips and rules, and you’ll be good. In time, you should be able to learn galloping, canter, and all the other paces of horse riding. Be perseverant! Follow the teacher’s instructions about stopping the horse. Slow the movement down to a slow walk, and gently pull on the reins. This is the signal for stopping, and can be accompanied by a low vocal command: “Oooh”. Once halted, you can slowly dismount. Again, keep the reins loose in your hands, and then complete the mount-up procedure, but in reverse! It shouldn’t be too challenging, especially with your riding instructor by your side. And that’s that! In a few simple moves, you can complete your first beginner’s horse ride. Again, do not do it unsupervised, with an untrained horse, or with other beginners. Injuries can occur in such situations. But in a supervised environment, you should be ok. Everyone can learn to ride horses if they are able: just be patient, confident, and take things one step at a time!

When You Should Start Training Your Rescue Dog

So, you’ve just picked up your new family member from the local shelter and you’ve noticed he’s got a few behavioral issues. If you’re concerned that your nervous little pooch may need time to decompress before you start introducing rules and regulations, you’re both right and wrong.Dogs need clearly established boundaries and expectations from the onset. It helps them feel secure, connect with you, and begin learning those all-important ropes when it comes to earning treats. But before you try to train your new buddy, take time to bond and gauge your pet’s comfort level as you move forward. Past triggers can surface and anything from a loud voice to his perception of being scolded can work against you.The 3-3-3 Rule to Welcoming your Dog Plan to spend the first few weeks and even the first few months getting to know and build trust with your new dog. A 3-3-3 rule talks to some of the general timelines you can expect to experience as your dog settles into this new home environment.For the first 3 days, he’s likely to feel overwhelmed, hesitant to eat or drink and may be more content to curl up and hide away in his crate than explore his new surroundings. After 3 weeks, he’ll start to settle in, feel relaxed and comfortable in his routine and start to show a hint of his true personality. By the 3-month mark, your rescue dog will have built trust and be bonding with you in his new home environment.During this time, socializing with any other pets in your home will be important and may take time and supervision. Similarly, leash-free parks will allow your pooch to gradually meet new dogs, but you should plan to keep a pocket full of high-value treats in case you need to coax him back on those initial excursions. And if he becomes aggressive or fearful, plan to leash him and bring him home for the time being.While you won’t be moving into the training phase just yet, it’s important to curb certain behaviors from the onset such as relieving himself on your floors, chewing or clawing furnishings and chasing the cat or other small pets. This can be done by modifying his environment and routine. Take him out for frequent potty breaks and reward him when he delivers.Crate or confine him to a smaller space such as a kitchen or mud room if leaving him to wander the house has proven to be a problem. If he chews, remove the item and replace it with a chew toy. And toss him a little treat when you see him opting for the toy versus the shoe or furnishings.Get him into a routine when it comes to feeding and walks. Predictability helps built trust and lets your pet know that he can count on you to provide food when he’s hungry and to take him out when he needs to stretch his legs and relieve himself.And provide him with his own “stuff”. Food and water bowls, blankets and toys, and a crate or bed that will act as a safe space he can retreat to when feeling overwhelmed.Take this extra time to learn your dog’s hot buttons including those that may cause him to act out in fear or aggression. Does he guard his food, distrust men or children, or become stressed around other dogs? Take the steps necessary to reassure him that he’s now in a safe place and that you’ve got his back.Let’s Get TrainingSo, he’s settling into his new home and routine nicely which means it’s time to start introducing a few more structured requests. This should include the basic commands including Sit, Stay, Leave It, Down, Heel as well as Recall. These will not only ensure your dog responds quickly when company arrives or you need him to stop chewing your shoes but also when you need him to immediately stop and sit when you see him wandering into potentially dangerous situations such as traffic.Plan to use rewards-based training that will encourage new, positive behaviors and (no surprise, here) food and treats will be infinitely more motivating than simple encouragement and head pats.And when training a rescue dog, conduct lessons indoors without potential distractions such as noise and other animals that can slow down the process. When you want to practice recall, do so in a fenced yard until you know for certain that he’ll return on command.1. Name RecognitionFor him to be receptive to learning new commands, you’re going to need his undivided attention. And this starts with getting your dog to respond to his name by either looking your way or coming to you. To begin, call his name and reward him with a treat whether he intentionally looks your way or just happens to glance over. The goal is for him to associate his name and him looking your way, with a reward. Wait a few minutes, allow him to become preoccupied with something else, then call his name again and repeat with a treat when he responds. Practice this step several times throughout the day.For older dogs who may be losing their hearing, clicker training is a great way to capture their attention. The sharp, unique click sound is easily recognizable and when he looks your way and a treat is issued, it’s a sound he’ll soon start to listen for. And it’s easy to train. Simply call his name and hold the treat close to your face. Each time he looks at you, click the clicker and give him his reward. Gradually increase the time between him looking up at you and you providing a treat.2. Respond to CommandsIf you’re now able to gain your dog’s undivided attention on command, it’s time to start introducing the basics. Start by calling his name to draw him over to you. Issue his earned treat, then proceed to the training.Sit, is often a command even rescue dogs will revert to when a treat is held above their head. Your goal is to have him build a strong connection between this command and receiving a reward. So, regardless of whether you’re holding something tasty right in front of him or you’re across the field of a leash-free park, he sits without hesitation when he hears you issue the command.With the Stay command, The American Kennel Club emphasizes the need for a start and a finish to help your dog understand when it’s okay for him to get up and move. So, choose a word that you both understand will release him from the Stay position and will be used exclusively for the release purpose. And avoid opting for something that he already hears frequently or in other situations – including his name, Come, or Treat - because it will confuse him when he hears it in a different context.Lay down is simply luring your dog down from a Sit position. Once seated, slowly move the treat from in front of his face to between his front paws. Your dog’s body will follow and he’ll enjoy a tasty reward for his work. As with the other commands, repeat throughout the day until upon hearing the word, your dog responds with the appropriate action.Again, your first step in training a rescue dog will be in gaining his trust and building a bond that will have him eager and ready to respond to commands to earn his reward. This can take days, weeks, and months to achieve and in these instances, patience really is a virtue.

Spondylosis in Senior Dogs

Most dog owners are familiar with the more common situations like loss of vision and hearing or the development of arthritis. But one risk that fewer dog owners have heard of is spondylosis. What is spondylosis in senior dogs, and can it be prevented? Let’s learn a little about this often-overlooked condition. What is Spondylosis? Spondylosis is a condition that occurs when the vertebral bones of a dog’s spine deteriorate naturally over time and bony spurs develop along the edges of the bones. These are the bones in your dog’s spinal column. Deterioration can be from normal wear and tear with age, or it may have started because of a previous spinal injury. In some cases, the bone spurs grow large enough that they meet up with a second spur causing a condition known as “Bridging Spondylosis”. While Spondylosis is most common in larger senior dogs, it can also be seen in middle-aged dogs or breeds of any size. Research shows that it is a common condition specifically in Boxers, indicating that there are some breeds that may have a genetic predisposition for developing Spondylosis. Symptoms of Spondylosis Recognizing and identifying Spondylosis is incredibly difficult because most dogs won’t display any symptoms. Instead, the condition is usually found “accidentally” while running x-rays and other testing for unrelated health conditions. For example, an x-ray may be taken to identify an intestinal blockage and reveal the bone spurs. In some cases, the bone spurs will grow in a way that limits normal movement of a dog’s spine. This leads to a change in the way that a dog moves and walks. They become stiff and rigid in their movements rather than moving freely as they normally would. They may also have difficulty with movements like jumping, rolling over, or even getting up to their feet after they have been lying down. Occasionally a bone spur will form near a nerve, putting pressure on it. When this happens, it causes significant pain resulting in whining, crying, pacing, tenderness, or avoidance to keep from being touched. If you notice any changes in your senior dog’s movement, contact your veterinarian, and explain your concerns. They will be able to run tests and work with you to find the cause. How Long Do Dogs Live with Spondylosis? Treatment will depend on the severity of your dog’s Spondylosis and is focused on addressing the symptoms rather than treating the condition itself. Your veterinarian may not recommend any medicinal treatment if your dog is currently showing no signs of pain. For painful cases of Spondylosis, anti-inflammatory medications or pain medications may be prescribed. Surgery may be needed in the rare cases where the bone spurs are directly impacting the spinal cord. In addition to medical treatment, there are steps that you can take to manage your dog’s condition. Weight management is important to minimize the pressure being put on the spine. This includes careful monitoring of your dog’s diet as well as regular physical exercise. Avoid high-impact exercise programs that could put unnecessary strain on your dog’s body. Changes around the home may be necessary to keep your senior dog comfortable, especially if their mobility has changed. If your dog is struggling to navigate stairs, consider using a ramp. Ramps can also be used to make it easier for your dog to get up on the couch or the bed for cuddles.

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