Top 10 Cool Facts About Cats You Didn’t Know

by Lisa Selvaggio

March 28th, 2022 12:45 PM

Think you know all there is to know about felines? We bet a few of these top 10 cool facts about cats are news to you!

top 10 cool facts about cats you didn 8217 t know

Cats are more interesting than you might think. Check out 10 cool facts cats below to get to know these creatures a little better (and impress your friends with your awesome kitty trivia knowledge). (Photo credit: Ulio/Bigstock)

The first piece of evidence that archaeologists have found with regards to humanity’s relationship with felines dates back to roughly 9,500 years ago. A kitten was found buried next to a human on Cyprus and it’s believed the cat was brought there on purpose. (Photo credit: AZALIA/Bigstock)

Your cat’s ancestors were solitary hunters who preferred taking down small prey. Dogs, on the other hand, have ancestors who hunted in packs and worked together at taking down large prey. This is why your kitty likes eating a lot of small meals throughout the day, while your dog likes to quickly eat as much as possible at every meal. (Photo credit: Adam88x/Bigstock)

All domesticated cats are descendents of the wild cat Felis silvestris lybica. These cats were domesticated in the Middle East at least 9,000 years ago, when farmers needed them to control pests. In addition to helping control pests on farms, cats have also been used for centuries by sailors. They were kept on ships both as good luck charms and to kill rodents. (Photo credit: EcoShot/Bigstock)

Cats evolved to be able to hunt in low-light conditions, so their eyes are large. However, because of this size, they find it hard to focus between far and near. As a result, their eye muscles develop based on their environment. While indoor cats tend to be nearsighted, outdoor kitties tend to be farsighted. But even though they’re nearsighted, their eyes are still so big that they can’t focus on objects that are less than one foot in front of them. Instead, they use their whiskers to feel whatever they can’t see clearly. (Photo credit: Seregraff/Bigstock)

Cats experience many of the same emotions that humans do. A feline brain consists of gray matter that actually has some remarkable similarities with the human brain. Experts can’t agree on the range and depth of cat emotions, but they do agree that cats feel things like people do. Emotions include excitability, happiness, depression, anger, and playfulness. They may even “love too much” and feel separation anxiety that results in pacing, vocalizations, blocking their owner from leaving, vomiting, refusal to eat, and even urinating outside the litter box. (Photo credit: maksheb/Bigstock)

There have been cases of cats traveling long distances to find their way back home, and experts refer to this ability as psi-traveling. Some experts think cats use the Earth’s magnetic fields, while others think felines may use sunlight angles to find their way when they get lost. (Photo credit: sorsillo/Bigstock)

Cats can reach incredible heights when they jump. In fact, a cat can jump up to five times his own height with a single leap. (Photo credit: Seregraff/Bigstock)

A feline’s body has roughly 130,000 hairs on every square inch. Despite all of that fur, though, cats can tolerate heat well because their ancestors lived in deserts. When they do become overheated, they sweat through their paws, find shaded and cool spots to rest in, pant, and groom themselves. (Photo credit: lufimorgan/Bigstock)

Cats can make a variety of sounds with their vocalizations and purrs, and they know what sounds to make to get what they want from you. For example, if they’re really hungry, they’ll make their cries sound urgent in a manner that can’t be ignored. They even seem to retain their kitten vocalizations to talk to humans, but they use different sounds when they communicate with each other. (Photo credit: Taina Sohlman/iStockphotos)

To communicate with fellow felines, cats use a slow blink that puts one another at ease and offers peace. If your cat blinks slowly at you, he’s basically blowing you a kiss. Blow a kiss back by slowly blinking while gazing at your kitty. (Photo credit: GeekTechLive/Bigstock)

Lisa Selvaggio

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How to Train a Blind Dog

As our pets age, they’ll inevitably begin to lose some of their senses – particularly their hearing and eyesight. And whether your dog has lost vision due to age, illness or accident, there’s no reason he can’t still enjoy the same active, fun-filled life as that of a fully sighted dog. But if that includes walks, visits to a leash-free park and navigating a house, yard or back deck, he’ll need a little help from you. And this is where training enters the picture.Getting StartedRegardless of whether your dog knows the five basic commands of Sit, Stay, Heel, Leave It and Come, or never quite got around to mastering them, it’s going to be important that he re-learn them in a manner that’s appropriate to a visually impaired dog. And with rewards-based training, this can be a fun, bonding experience for you and your pet.Gain His AttentionOne of the first steps in training a blind dog is to get his attention. You need him focused on your movements, receptive to your commands and eager to gain a reward. And without vision, he’s going to be relying on his other senses including hearing, touch and smell.If you’ve not yet used clicker training, this might just be the time to try it. With this type of training, you use a small, hand-held clicker that you depress to make a short, sharp click sound. Use it to capture your pet’s attention before introducing a verbal command he can follow and receive a reward. Click, command, treat, repeat.Other means include clapping your hands or yelling in his direction. But with a clicker, you can accomplish this faster and more effectively due to its unique sound that will be new to him.Let’s Start TrainingOnce you’ve got your pet’s attention – either by clicker, voice, whistle, or other sounds - you’re ready to start training him on the basics.Quick ResponseOne thing that won’t change despite his vision loss is your pet’s ability to recognize his name. And once you’ve captured his attention, this is a great way to keep him engaged while you provide him with direction. You begin with a pocketful of treats that he earns each time you call him by name and he comes over or looks up toward you. And with treats involved, he’ll be working his way over pretty quickly. Do this a few times a day over a couple of days. The goal is for him to become highly responsive and eager to come to you when he hears you say his name. Sit, Stay, and Down CommandsIt’s called “luring” and it’s a fun way for your pet to learn or re-learn the basics. Most dogs will immediately respond to the sit command. But instead of automatically offering him a treat for this behavior, slowly move the treat down between his front paws. The nose will follow and as he begins to assume a “down” or “lay down” position, use the clicker and say “down” so that he associates the word with the action. Follow with the treat and repeat throughout the day.

How To Recognize Your Horse Is Sick

While horses are generally seen as strong and hardy animals, often capable of performing impressive athletic or work feats, they are still not impervious to health issues. This can become especially obvious if you fail to take good care of your equine friend. Horses require regular and thorough health checkups and plenty of attention in their daily life. But even if you do everything “by the book”, sickness can still loom around the corner. To be prepared, you will have to know how to recognize that your horse is sick. There are certain symptoms and signs that you can quickly spot in order to know that something is “off”. And knowing them gives you a much-needed edge – as every minute counts in case of sickness!Signs of Sickness in HorsesHorses can’t speak – that much you already know. But they can communicate with you, in a way. Nature has its way of making things known. While a horse can’t say what hurts, they can show it. You will have to watch for any odd behaviors or movements, and anything that seems uncommon. If your horse starts doing something that you never saw before, it is worth investigating. When your horse is sick, it will at once change its usual behavior. Lack of energy and appetite is a common sign of sickness, as is the tendency to stay in dark and secluded corners of the stable. Without a doubt, one of the most common signs of sickness is rapid and noticeable weight loss. A horse is an elegant and powerful animal, and it is never meant to be skinny. If you start noticing the outlines of their ribcage, for example and recognize that they lost weight, be alarmed: this is never a good sign. Rapid weight loss can be accompanied by a number of additional ailments, such as loss of appetite, constant diarrhea, and apathy. Depending on the ailment, a horse might excessively drink more water than usual, or just stop drinking water altogether. Just as with the loss of appetite, this is an alarming sign that needs to be quickly addressed. If sick or in pain, a horse might become fidgety and strange: any spike or change in activity levels should be investigated. Excessive sneezing, nasal discharge, neighing and teeth-showing, snorting – if done near-constantly, these might be the signs of some underlying discomfort.You should also do frequent checkups of your horse’s ears. Just like dogs and many other animals, a horse can communicate through its ears. When sick, sad, or in pain, their ears can be pushed back against their temple. If they are constantly in this position, your horse might be in pain. The same goes for their mouth – their teeth can often get infected, leading to further health issues. Check for excess drool, swollen gums, bad breath, and excess lip rolling. These are signs of serious oral issues that have to be addressed. Sudden and dramatic changes in mood and character can also be a signal of pain and discomfort. If your horse is suddenly aggressive, for example, and unwilling to cooperate as before, it might be their way of saying that they are in great pain. Such changes can also be accompanied by rapid breathing, excess sweating, or stubborn behavior. In the end, all you need to do is observe your horse’s behavior: if you spot something that you simply know is out of the ordinary, get in touch with your vet. It is always best to do a check-up on time, than to be late as the problem gets out of hand.

How You And Your Dog Can Make The Most of The Summer Season

And there’s tons of fun stuff you can do with your dog this summer. Whether you’re checking out the best places for hiking with your dog, dusting off your Frisbee for some quality fetch sessions in the backyard, or maybe planning a camping trip to explore the great outdoors with your pet, you’ll need to make sure your dog is properly prepared for all the amazing summer adventures you’ll have! Save 35% off your first Autoship order + 5% on all future Auto Ship orders with your Treats Membership at PetSmart.com!Getting Ready for the Outdoor SeasonWhile warm weather and longer days might draw you and your pooch out instantly, you’ll have to keep in mind some important preparation for the start of the outdoor season. First, all kinds of insects also love great weather – so be sure to put tea, flick, and even mosquito protection on your pet. Be it a collar, a topical treatment, or an edible parasite treatment, choose something that will make sure your pet is safe from all kinds of blood-sucking parasites and dangerous illnesses that these pests can infect them with.

Pumpkin and Cheese Dog Treat Recipe

Pumpkins are for more than just carving, they’re also for eating. And not just for humans – your pooches can get in on all the goodness and benefits of eating pumpkin. And in our Pumpkin and Cheese Dog Treats, you’ll get that and so much more. Did you know that pumpkin is a wonderful source of Vitamins A, E, and C – these are important for your dog’s immune system, brain function, eyes, and skin health. On top of that, pumpkin also contains minerals such as potassium, copper, manganese, and iron, all of which play a role in cellular functions. And when you add cheese into the mix, you’ve got a homemade cookie that will have your doggie drooling!Makes about 40 cookiesIngredients:2 cups whole wheat flour1 cup pureed pumpkin2 cups shredded cheddar cheese1 teaspoon baking powder2 eggs2 tablespoons olive oilDirections:1. Preheat oven to 350° F. Line cookie sheets with parchment paper.2. In a large bowl, beat eggs, then mix in oil and pumpkin. Stir in cheddar cheese.3. Add flour and baking powder, mixing until combined. You may want to get your hands into the mix to make sure it’s all combined.4. Flour your countertop and roll out dough to ¼ inch thickness. Cut out shapes using a cookie cutter. Place shapes on cookie sheets.5. Place in oven and let bake for 17 - 20 minutes, until golden brown.6. Remove cookies from oven and allow to cool for 2-3 hours.7. Place treats in an airtight containers and store in refrigerator or freezer.

All About Supplements for Horses

When taking care of a horse, you might think that quality feed, hay, or pasture is all that’s needed to keep them healthy and hale. You can even go to great lengths to provide the best quality food – but it could still not be enough. Sometimes, horses simply cannot acquire all the needed vitamins, proteins, and other key nutrients from the regular food you provide. This can cause certain deficiencies that could possibly affect their health in the long run. In order to boost your horse’s immune system and to keep them as healthy as possible, supplements for horses might be needed. But how should you know when your horse needs supplements and what kind? Do All Horses Need Supplements?Experts and equine aficionados propose that not all horses require supplements all the time. A perfectly healthy young horse with access to quality fresh food and with plenty of exercise, will likely get from it all the nutrients it needs for healthy development. But some horses simply won’t get all the nutrients from their diet. These nutritional gaps can be seasonal, affected by a subtle change in food quality, or they can be caused by other aspects, such as the advanced age of a horse, pregnancy, sickness, and so on. In such cases, supplements are much needed to keep the health in its prime. So, it is important to know when supplements are needed and to avoid giving them without good cause. Generally speaking, the need for supplements can be dictated by the age of the horse, its activity levels, and their given state. Older horses might not have the perfect digestive system as they did before, and supplements can help them. An injured horse that is recovering and lacks physical exercise or outside time will also benefit from certain supplements. Or, for example, a mare that expects a foal will also need those extra nutrients. What Kind of Supplements Does My Horse Need?The need for nutrients can also depend on the type of food you provide to your horse. If it’s a grass or hay-only diet, certain nutrients could be lacking in their diet. Horses that consume grain, as well as hay, will have a different intake of vitamins and minerals. In some cases, a special mineral block can be provided to supplement these deficiencies or a supplement that provides only a certain vitamin or mineral. Some of the most common vitamins that a horse might need if they consume only hay or grass include vitamin A, biotin, vitamins B, C, and D, and beta carotene. Other key supplements to consider are probiotics and prebiotics. They help maintain the horse’s digestive system and also boost immunity. Both will add beneficial microflora to the gut and can help the horse get the most out of its feed. In some cases, due to poor quality feed and overfeeding, horses can get gas and become bloated. These supplements can help remedy that.Overall, there are a number of different supplements that can be crucial for horses. Most of them are used as needed, and if needed. For example, joint supplements can help senior horses who are plagued by arthritis, while weight gain supplements can help recovering horses who have trouble getting back those lost pounds. Similarly, hoof and coat supplements can help keep the coat shiny and smooth, and healthy, and the hooves strong. Of course, it goes without saying that you should only use registered and approved supplements and always with advice and instructions from your vet. Avoid using supplements of dubious origins, and never give supplements of your own accord or without making sure with your vet that they are actually needed in the specific situation.

Door Darting: How to Stop Your Cat From Getting Out

What are some of the ways you can train your feline friend to stay inside the house and stop bolting for the door? Read on for a few helpful tips.First, Make Your Pet’s Home More Interesting Filling your pet’s environment with plenty of fun things to do may be helpful. A bored cat might be more likely to try to find exciting things on the other side of the door. So, setting up cat trees and wall or window perches, as well as giving your pet a variety of toys to play with, could all be good ways to make her feel totally content with staying inside.Keep Your Cat Occupied Away from the DoorIf the doorbell rings and your cat knows that you’re about to open the door, grab some treats or her favorite catnip toys and use them to keep her occupied in another room. Puzzle toys can also work well as a time-consuming distraction because they challenge your kitty and reward her with yummy food.In addition, you can use this strategy when you’re about to leave. It might work at keeping your cat from following you and trying to sneak her way out.Avoid Greeting Your Kitty at the DoorDo your best to avoid giving your cat attention when she’s close to the door. This is a strategy that’s worth trying if your pet typically follows you to the door or runs to it as soon as she hears you turning the doorknob.The goal is to train your kitty to stay away from the door while you’re entering and exiting, and it might be helpful to discourage your cat from spending time near the door even while you’re home. In other words, make it an area that she generally doesn’t have a reason to be in. That way, it’ll be less likely that you’ll find her relaxing right by the entrance.To start, don’t put anything that your cat would use near the door, such as toys, cat beds, cat trees, etc. Instead, keep them a good distance from the door so your kitty can establish those spaces as her own. And, as mentioned above, you can guide your cat to specific rooms and distract her with treats and toys before leaving. Then, upon entering, you can do the same by guiding her to a secure area where you can greet her and give her praise for being a good kitty that didn’t run out.Certain Products Might HelpFinally, if necessary, you might need to use deterrents, such as double-sided tape, sheets of aluminum foil, or a motion-activated spray that’s designed for safely training pets. These tactics might help keep your kitty away from the door so you can have some peace of mind.

Adoptable Dog of the Week - Marvin

Sweet, cuddly, and effortlessly adorable, this charming fella will knock you off your feet! Our Adoptable Dog of the Week is Marvin, a 1.5 years old Golden Chinese Shar-Pei, or in other words – a mix between a Golden Retriever and a Shar Pei breed. He even has that trademark blue-black spotted tongue of a Shar Pei! This cutie pie is currently in a shelter in Valley Falls, Kansas, and he is neutered, microchipped, and up to date on his vaccinations. Marvin is a kind-hearted guy that gets along great with other dogs and can be a great companion for families with children.Marvin’s Tale Marvin has been waiting for the right people to come for some time now – but through no fault of his own! He’s a big guy but he has an even bigger heart, and he’s the friendliest dog you’ll ever meet – he has such a loveable personality, and adores getting cuddles and being showered with love. Of course, in return, you’ll get a bunch of pooch smooches and snuggles every day! Marvin is also a high-energy dog that will need regular walks and exercise to burn off his extra energy, so he’d love an owner with an active lifestyle that is looking for a four-legged companion for their adventures.As a friendly, sweet dog, Marvin does well with other canines, too, especially if they are as friendly and nice as he is – but it would be best to do a meet and greet if you already have a pet just to see if their personalities hit it off. He also likes kids and does well both with teenagers and children under the age of 10, but have in mind that he is a large breed dog with a lot of energy so very young and small kiddos might not be the best match – he might accidentally knock them over during playtime.If Marvin sounds like the perfect pet for your family, contact Jefferson County Humane Society Inc to learn more about him and the adoption process.

10 Most Popular Rabbit Breeds

If you’ve decided that a rabbit is a perfect pet for you or your family, you might be wondering which breed is the most compatible with your lifestyle and preferences. The world of rabbits is diverse, with 50 rabbit breeds recognized by ARBA and many more in development, so it might be difficult to narrow down your choice. Luckily, there are more than a few rabbit breeds that have consistently been the most popular choices, both for first-time owners and seasoned bunny parents, as they combine lovely looks with an even lovelier personality, making them a favorite choice for a pet rabbit for years – or decades– back. Take a look at our selection of the 10 most popular rabbit breeds for pets, and you might just meet your new best friend!

How to Rabbit-Proof Your Home

Pet rabbits are lively and fun animals, and very entertaining to be around. When not snoozing and huddling, they will love to explore, hop about, and discover new nooks and crannies around your home. However, they have an affinity for chewing, nibbling, digging, and crawling into any space they find interesting – and interesting doesn’t necessarily mean safe, as well. Because of this, you will have to rabbit-proof your home, both to keep your rabbit safe, but also to preserve your furniture, gadgets, and any other valuables your bunny might find tempting to nibble on. But if you are a first-time rabbit owner, you might be clueless as to what exactly needs to be done to successfully rabbit-proof your home. Here are some classic tips and tricks from experienced rabbit owners – do these, and you’ll keep both your pet and your home safe and sound.Protect wires, cords, and cables We all know that bunnies simply love to chew and nibble on things. It is their way of exploring and getting to know their surroundings. However, in a modern home setting, this instinct isn’t only bad in terms of material damage, but it can also be dangerous for your bunny. One of the first things you will have to take care of is wires. Our homes have plenty of cables all around the floor – if a rabbit nibbles on them and reaches the wires, the outcome can be fatal. There are several ways you can rabbit-proof cables, and the best (and the easiest) way is to purchase special flexible tubing. Most hardware and electronics stores keep them. This tubing can encase several cables at once, making things neater – but also perfectly protected from your pet’s chompers. Of course, any other reliable solution is accepted, as long as you try keeping all cables out of a rabbit’s reach, whether somewhere higher or tucked away. Use pet-safe material to conceal and protect furnitureOf course, there are also things in your home that won’t harm your rabbit, but should also be protected nonetheless. Sofa legs, table legs, elaborate door frames, baseboards, and anything else that is close enough to the floor – all of it can be nibbled and chewed down to scraps. If you want to keep your possessions pristine, you should find ways to rabbit-proof them. In this case, anything goes, as long as the material isn’t toxic to bunnies. Cardboard tubes from paper rolls, flexible tubing, and premade protective solutions supplied by pet shops – anything can help prevent a rabbit from chewing his way through.Restrict access to certain areasOf course, one of the simplest solutions is simply blocking off certain areas you don’t want your pet to go in, whether the space is unsafe for them (e.g. floor level plants that can’t be moved) or if you don’t want to risk them ruining something that you can’t conceal or protect. You can opt for classic pet or baby fences that can be found in any pet store or general store and can effectively block doorways, staircases, and such. Keep your bunny safe in the room of your choosing, and keep the next room out of bounds. Efficient and simple! As long as they have plenty of room to hop about and explore, it doesn’t matter which room of your home they are in. Don’t forget about the flooringIn some cases, you might have to remove a carpet or get rid of your fancy rugs. Bunnies love to dig, and might find your carpet a suitable digging ground – or even realize that a carpet could be fun to chew on. In no time, your precious rug might end up all torn and tattered. It is best to keep your rabbit in a room with hardwood floors, tiles, laminate, etc, but make sure the surface isn’t too slippery, either. Rabbits don’t feel safe on surfaces that are slippery and can actually injure themselves if they happen to slip. Remove any toxic/poisonous items from your homeLast, but not least, is the danger of poisonous houseplants. That exotic flower or that spider plant you always loved might not be so harmless after all. Some common houseplants can be poisonous to rabbits, so make sure you keep them out of reach. The same goes for foods that are yummy to you but might kill or seriously harm your bunny – things such as avocado, chocolate, potatoes, and mushrooms (to name a few) are all dangerous for rabbits.In the end, try to be around when your bunny roams free around the house. With your supervision, everything becomes safer, and you don’t have to worry about your pet getting into trouble while you weren’t looking.

Show Rabbits 101

We all know that dogs are one of the most popular show pets – groomed to perfection and judged both on their appearance and physical prowess. But did you know that the rabbit is another popular show pet? That’s right, show rabbits hold a special place in professional competitions. Most beginner rabbit owners never even suspect that their pet can win over a host of judges – especially if it is a special breed. Who knows, perhaps your fluffy pet has all the needed attributes to become a champion? But before you and your pet go on winning medals, here is what you need to know about show rabbits.Why Show Your Rabbit?Some rabbit owners might be questioning the purpose of these exhibitions, so let’s try and answer this question – why show your rabbit in the first place? Rabbit shows are a great way to enter a world of like-minded rabbit enthusiasts. Not only will you get to meet other rabbit lovers, but you can also learn a lot about raising your rabbit right, from the first-hand experience of seasoned owners. Exchange your experiences with other breeders, and learn the tips and tricks of breeding, molting, grooming, behavior, diet, and many other aspects of rabbit care. Winning is only a bonus – you need only participate to have all the fun!What Is a Show Rabbit? To enter one of these competitions, your rabbit needs to have “show qualities” to begin with. In simplest terms, this means that your bunny needs to be as close to “genetic perfection” as possible. If you have a superb and pretty rabbit specimen, they might just be a champion stock! In competition terms, a show quality rabbit is one that does not have any non-genetic or genetic disqualifications. So, any slight imperfections that your rabbit might have, can potentially ruin their chances in a competition. Crooked legs, discoloration, obesity, abnormalities, imperfect tail, eye discoloration, and similar “imperfections” are enough to categorize your bunny as a non-show rabbit. But that is not all. Show rabbits need to belong to one of the ARBA-recognized rabbit breeds. There are numerous special rabbit breeds that are on the ARBA list, and most of them are unique in their appearance, and often hard to acquire. Some of these breeds are American Rabbit, English Lop, Dwarf Papillon, Checkered Giant, Giant Angora, Lionhead, Silver Marten, and many others – currently, 50 rabbit breeds are recognized by this organization. So, before you try and enter the lists, check out your bunny’s pedigree and their breed’s standard.How to Show Rabbits So, you made it to the exhibition. You made sure your rabbit is socialized, used to handling, healthy, and recognized by the ARBA. But how do you show your rabbit properly? First, you will want them to be cleaned properly – from head to toe. Clip their toenails too, and clean any dirt spots you see. Groom them at home, and brush them gently just before the judging show. You’ll want their fur smooth and presentable (depending on the breed). Of course, you will want to give your bunny plenty of water before the show starts, and to make sure they are accustomed to being handled. When the judge appears, pose your rabbit as instructed by the judge. The usual pose has to have eyes and front legs aligned, and hind legs and hips also. The tail also needs to be shown. Once the judge is finished, place your bunny back in its enclosure, as to avoid confusion during the judging process. And keep your fingers crossed – maybe you’re going home with a medal!

5 Things You Should Never Feed to Your Horse

You might be surprised to know that horses are often mischievous and very inquisitive, and will want to take a nibble out of many things. It is one way to get acquainted with the world around them, but it also has to do with them simply being voracious. Still, they will depend on you for food, and it is your responsibility to feed them quality foods and quality foods only. Anything that is not confirmed safe for horses to eat can really harm them in the long run, so you should stick to the rules. But still, a reminder is always handy, so here is the list of five things you should never feed to your horse!1. MeatThis one might come off as too obvious, especially considering that horses are plant eaters – i.e herbivores. As this is natural to them, you should of course stick to a plant-based diet. Don’t get any funny ideas and offer horses meat or meat-based products, for whatever reason. Horses' teeth can’t really deal with sinewy and chewy meat, and their digestive systems can’t handle it either. So, even products that contain small amounts of meat should be avoided altogether. It can do more harm than good.2. Old hayLet’s say that food stocks are running low, so you reach for that old bunch of hay or roughage that has been standing in the corner for ages and feed it to your horse. Doing this would be a fatal mistake. Old hay that stood for far too long and became dusty, dirty, and moldy, can cause irreparable damage to your horse’s respiratory system, and their health. Remember that it is often your responsibility to provide quality foods, as horses will often gulp down on many things even if they are bad for their health. Long term exposure to moldy and stale hay can severely damage your horse’s health, so avoid it altogether. 3. ChocolateSome owners might think that chocolate can be a suitable sweet reward for a good horse. If you enjoy it, why can’t your horse, right? Wrong. Chocolate is bad for horses. Just like cats and dogs, and many other animals, chocolate is dangerous for horses. It contains theobromine, which can make most animals ill. In fact, cocoa in large doses can actually kill horses, and even a bit of chocolate is enough for the negative ingredients to enter their bloodstream. So, even a square off of a chocolate bar can be dangerous to a horse, so best avoid it – always. 4. Lawn mower clippingsSo you mowed the lawn, and you’re left with a bunch of grass clippings. They seem minced and fresh, and easy for a horse to eat. But offering this would be a mistake, and a potential health hazard – even though it is just grass. This bunched up cut grass can often contain unhealthy and potentially poisonous plants, as well as a larger concentration of harmful parasites. What is more, such conveniently “mushed” grass is super easy for a horse to gulp down, and they will eat large quantities – this causes colic and bloating, together with other discomforts. And if the grass has been sitting for just a day or two, it will quickly develop dangerous mold. It is best thrown away or used as compost for your garden rather than being horse food. 5. TomatoesFor us, these are delicious veggies, ideal in a salad or in a sandwich. But this is not the same for horses, for whom the tomato is very toxic. If you didn’t know, the tomato belongs to the family of plants called Solanaceae. This family also includes the Deadly Nightshade, a notoriously poisonous plant. In fact, tomatoes too contain toxic alkaloid elements like atropine, hyoscyamine, and solanine, all of which are part of that nightshade family. Even a single tomato can be dangerous to a horse, causing tomato poisoning whose symptoms are increased heart rate, diarrhea, constipation, and severe digestion issues. Avoid them at all costs. For a balanced horse's diet, you should stick to the classics, and follow the recommendations of your vet. Horses should be fed according to their weight, age, and levels of activity throughout the day. Trying to experiment with odd and unorthodox foods can really cause more harm than good.

How Do Dog Insurance Companies Check for Pre-existing Conditions?

With the costs of veterinary procedures and services only going up, more and more pet parents are looking into pet insurance to help soften the blow on the budget in case of emergencies or unexpected illnesses. But what about coverage for dogs with pre-existing conditions? Can you insure your dog for an illness or health issue that they had before the policy came into effect? Here’s what to know about pre-existing conditions and dog insurance, from what is considered as such to how dog insurance companies check for pre-existing conditions.What is Considered Pre-existing Condition In Terms of Dog Insurance?Any illness or health issue that has occurred before the set waiting period passes is considered a pre-existing condition. The waiting period is usually up to two weeks for most dog insurances, so if something happens to your pet in that time period, it won’t be included in the coverage. The same goes for conditions that they’ve had for weeks, months, or years prior to being insured, as these won’t be included in the coverage either. Still, it’s important to read your specific policy, as each dog insurance company can have a different definition of a pre-existing condition. How Do Dog Insurance Companies Check for Pre-existing Conditions?To identify any potential pre-existing condition, dog insurance companies will require your pet’s medical history, including records from your vet, and some might even require a full medical exam to determine your pet’s health status. They will check not only for an official diagnosis but also for symptoms that could be a clear indicator of a developing disease. Needless to say, pre-existing conditions are not something you can hide from a dog insurance company.It’s also worth noting that pre-existing conditions can be considered curable or chronic, and they are treated differently by dog insurance companies. If your pet had a health issue that is considered to be curable, e.g. ear infection, and it has passed at least 6 to 12 months (depending on the company’s policy) since the symptoms occurred, the condition will be considered cured and will be covered by your pet’s policy. Unfortunately, there usually is no coverage for diseases classified as chronic or uncurable (diabetes, cancer, allergies, arthritis, etc) that have developed prior to your dog being insured.Do Pre-existing Conditions Affect the Monthly Premium Costs of Dog Insurance? Pre-existing conditions do not affect the monthly premium costs of dog insurance directly – they are simply excluded from the coverage. Let’s say your pet has asthma: it won’t make their premium higher, but any health issue that arises and is related to their asthma won’t be eligible for reimbursement from the insurance company. Of course, this means that the sooner you insure your pet, the better deal you’ll get. Insuring a puppy doesn’t just come at a lower premium, but it also ensures that any future conditions will be included in the coverage. If you wait until your pet starts showing symptoms or develops a health issue before considering insurance, you’ll miss the opportunity for the dog insurance company to cover the costs of treatment – which can be quite a lot, especially if the issue is chronic.

How to Train Your Pet to Be a Visiting Therapy Dog

So, you think your gentle, people-loving pooch would be a great fit as a nursing home Therapy dog? Let’s start by saying congratulations on exploring this option. Pet visitation programs have become popular across the globe because of their proven ability to enhance the quality of life and help improve the health of seniors including those suffering from depression, dementia and Alzheimer’s disease.And while you may be right about your little buddy being an ideal candidate for this type of work, there’s more to it than simply a winning disposition and disarming grin.Breeds that QualifyWonder which breeds qualify? The short answer is that all breeds qualify however due to potential liability issues, each dog requires a certain level of certification before he gets to share the love. And because what this certification actually looks like can vary from state to state, province to province and even between the various retirement communities, you’ll want to start with the basic accreditations.Let’s Get StartedThe American Kennel Club (AKC) and the Canadian Kennel Club (CKC) offer behavioral certifications called the Canine Good Citizen (AKC) and the Canine Good Neighbor (CKC). Both programs include a series of tests that your pooch must perform and pass in front of a live evaluator.Each club’s testing system requires among other things, that your dog to be friendly with strangers, that he come when called, sit and stay on command, be receptive to patting and have a clean, well-groomed appearance. The TestsThe requirements below, are pulled from both the AKC and CKC testing requirements. For each objective, we share training tips on how to get your pooch up to speed and ready for his final evaluation. That evaluation takes no more than 10 to 15 minutes and is conducted by accredited, dog-friendly folk who are located throughout North America and are both supportive and rooting for your best buddy to claim his title.1. Willing to accept the approach of a friendly stranger reaching out to shake hands with you.Socialization is key here and if your pet wasn’t introduced to new sights, sounds, and faces when he was a fearless little pup, he’ll likely feel anxious when taken out of his comfort zone as an adult. Your goal is to build his confidence and lessen his fears by providing him with gradual, controlled exposure to new situations. Plan to:· Bring him to a dog park and remain within sight in case he feels crowded or overwhelmed by other dogs.· Introduce him to new faces – both adults and children. Progress can be measured in his reaction to these new situations. Is he comfortable when strangers approach – meaning he doesn’t growl, bark, lunge, or hide behind you?· As he progresses, consider dropping him at a doggie daycare center from time to time. This allows him to mix with new faces in a supervised situation where you’re not present. And staff are great at sharing report cards on just how well your dog integrated with others and if there were any hot buttons.2. Sit politely and accept being patted over a period of time without shying away or showing wariness. Meeting this requirement relies heavily on how well socialized your dog is. If he’s passed the meet and greet phase with flying colors, it’s time to introduce him to the sensation of being patted and touched by strangers. Start with people you know but who your dog may not be as familiar with. He should be able to sit, stay and accept the pat without mouthing, pulling back or feeling threatened (treats help keep your pooch on point).This needs to happen in a controlled manner, one person at a time, and with them instantly withdrawing if your pet becomes anxious. His comfort level with being touched and cuddled by strangers will grow with continued exposure. It’s not a process you can rush and is a step that is critically important to how well he will perform as a therapy dog.3. Be responsive when taken for a short walk including completing, left, right and about-turns as well as stopping. One of the five basic commands, “heel” can be a tricky one to master when your dog is excitedly tugging and pulling in an effort to get the walk started. Because this is an important discipline for a Therapy dog, clicker training might be the way to go. And it’s a fairly simple process. Call your dog to come to you as you start to walk (the standard heel position is on your left side). When he arrives, say “good boy/girl” while at the same time clicking the clicker and offering up that all-important treat.Practice this a few times until your pet has the hang of it. Then eliminate the verbal command and simply use the clicker to draw your dog over to you and into position. Once the task has been completed successfully, mix it up by changing your pace or direction to require your dog to regain his heel position and adapt his stride.4. Be comfortable moving through a crowd of strangers without jumping up.Here’s another requirement that relies on your pet being fully socialized and capable of interacting with strangers, minus fear, aggression, or over-exuberance. And it’s an important skill for Therapy dogs who may need to move through crowded nursing homes or hospitals while remaining calm and focused. Start with taking him on short, leashed walks of no more than five to 10 minutes through a crowd where he can still see ahead and to the sides. Offer plenty of verbal praise (with treats) as he remains focused on the walk and non-reactive to the outside stimulation.Over time, your pet will change his association with crowds and strangers from a fearful experience to one loaded with encouragement and treats. Gradually extend the length of your walks to help reinforce the positive/non-threatening nature of these situations.5. Sit and stay on command, then remain in the stay position when you walk away before returning.The American Kennel Club emphasizes the need for a start and finish to the Stay command. Choose a word to be used exclusively to release your pet from the Stay position. It could be “over” or “OK” or “free” - you pick. Now, because it should be strictly for releasing your pet from his Stay, avoid choosing his name, “come”, or any other command word that might confuse when used later.When your pet has assumed a Sit or Down position, use the Stay command. Within a few seconds, use the release word and issue a treat. If he remains in his Stay position, encourage him to get up and come toward you.6. Sit, stay, and then come when called from a 30-foot distance.Once the Stay/Release command is mastered you’re ready to move on to the three Ds: Duration, Distance and Distractions.Duration is how long your dog remains in a stay position, Distance is how far you move away from your pet, and Distractions are all that stuff that can happen around him while he’s patiently waiting in the Stay position. All can be trained and controlled.· To build on Duration, issue the Stay command, count to three, then issue the release word with a treat. Repeat the process, increasing each interval by a few seconds. If he releases early, repeat the Sit/Stay commands and begin again.· Distance training takes longer and requires a little more patience. Deliver the Sit/Stay commands, then take one step back from your dog while he remains in the Stay position. Pause, then step back toward him and deliver the treat if he’s remained in place. Next, take two steps back, then forward to your dog. Repeat the process, adding an extra step each time.· It’s important to have mastered the Distance and Duration commands before adding Distractions. Noise, a squirrel, anything can draw your dog’s attention away from the task at hand. To de-sensitize your pet, add small distractions in a controlled environment such as your backyard. Increase the number and level of distractions, then move to a different environment and repeat. And up the game as it relates to treats. AKC recommends “higher value” options for this one.Want a handy training tip? Always hold treats up at chest level to prevent luring (dog just following the food versus the command).When your training is complete and your pet has received his Canine Good Citizen or Canine Good Neighbor certification, you’ll want to align yourself with an established Therapy dog program that can identify those facilities that are in need of this service. In the United States, the AKC website has a list of Therapy dog organizations including the Alliance of Therapy Dogs and Therapy Dogs International. In Canada, organizations such as St. John’s Ambulance are good places to start once you feel your dog is ready to start spreading the love.

Ask the Animal Communicator: Parrot Screams From Morning Until Night

Dear Shannon, My new parrot, Sylvie, and I are a true love match. I rescued her when I went to the local SPCA to adopt a dog. Sylvie, a yellow-crowned Amazon parrot, had just arrived and the staff hadn’t quite figured out where to put her yet, so she was in her cage on the counter at the main intake desk. The moment she saw me, she came over to the corner of her cage closest to where I was standing and pressed her whole body against the bars. She started singing “you are my sunshine” and my heart just melted. But ever since she came home with me, she has gotten louder and louder. I own a townhome and share one wall with a neighbor, who is home most days and has started to complain. I work outside the home and I don’t know how to keep Sylvie calm and quiet while I’m gone during the day. The SPCA didn’t have much history on Sylvie and they couldn’t tell me how old she is or what her life was like before she came to me. So I’m basically at my wit’s end. Can you help? Smitten and stressed parrot mama DoloresShannon’s reply:Hi Dolores,Situations like what you describe with Sylvie can be complicated. We want to look at her situation from all aspects such as health, species-specific traits, past history, current situation. So of course I want to encourage you to have Sylvie checked by an avian veterinarian just to rule out any underlying health issues. That aside, animal communication can definitely help with some of this, and we will explore what Sylvie had to share when I talked with her. When I tune in with Sylvie, I do get the sense she is past the point of parrot adolescence – what some parronts (parrot parents) like to call the “terrible twos.” This is a time period when parrots are reaching sexual maturity. For larger birds in particular, it can be a time when they bond intensely to one human family member and reject all the other humans in the family. And it can be a time of acting out, screaming, throwing temper tantrums and all the other displays we often see in young humans going through the same process.Because my sense from Sylvie is that she is older – perhaps around eight or 10 or even in her early teens – this would theoretically rule out pure hormonally-motivated vocalizing. In fact, when I ask Sylvie what the screaming is about, she broadcasts pure anxiety. She keeps showing me a woman walking away from her and the further away the woman gets, the more Sylvie’s stress level rises. By the time the woman disappears from Sylvie’s line of sight, she is screeching with panic.Even from a purely species-specific standpoint, this doesn’t surprise me. As a longtime parrot lover and parrot carer myself, I am aware that nearly all parrot species are social animals both in a wild setting and in captivity. Yellow-crowned Amazon parrots are known to be especially social, congregating in small groups during daylight hours and regrouping in larger flocks to roost at night. Being alone at any time is super scary to this prey species, as the birds rely on each other to keep a sharp eye out for dangers like approaching predators.When I ask Sylvie what her idea of a perfect day looks like, she shows me an unmistakable scene of you being there with her all day long. You are singing together, eating together, walking around the house together, driving in the car together, running errands together and doing everything together. So we know Sylvie is going to need some extra help to cope with your absence on work days. To identify the things that are most likely to help her, I used applied kinesiology (also known as muscle testing). Sylvie tested positive for soothing music, natural sounds of birdsong (I recommend Pet Acoustics Avine for this), essential oils (you can work with a pet aromatherapist trained in zoopharmacognosy to learn how to allow Sylvie to self-select the ones that will help her the most) and parrot foraging and puzzle toys to help keep her mentally busy during the day. Sylvie also tells me she wants you to talk to her each morning and tell her exactly what to expect during the day. Tell her when you will leave and when you will be home. If that changes during the day, talk to her on the inside and tell her when you will actually return home. This will help her feel connected to you and reduce the chances of avian panic. Before closing out my conversation with Sylvie, I did three rounds of emotional freedom technique, aka EFT tapping, to help her move some of her residual anxiety out of her body. The phrase I used with Sylvie while I tapped was “even though I feel utterly panicked when Mom (you) leaves and I am afraid she will never come back, I affirm that I am the pure and perfect parrot just the way I am.” I encourage you to download my free EFT for Pets four-part tapping series https://animallovelanguages.com/eft-for-pets/ to learn how you can use EFT for Sylvie at home. I also encourage you to use EFT to ease your own anxiety about leaving Sylvie, which is also covered in the four-part EFT for Pets series.Dolores, I truly hope this information helps you to help Sylvie settle into her new forever home with you. Please do keep in touch and let me know how you both are doing.From my heart,Shannon

BARK Customizes Dog Food To Ensure The Best Diet For Your Best Friend

They’re all great products and there’s nothing dogs look more forward to than a fun package full of goodies arriving at their door just for them! Except now maybe they’ll be even more excited because BARK has breed-specific dog food, BARK Food. As is BARK’s usual, there’s a lot more to it than just a great product. Their website is full of useful information for your dog and their breed, and even the pickiest of dogs seem to love the delicious, made-in-the-USA formulas. And now, you can save 30% off your first BARK Food order with code PETGUIDE30.What’s Included?BARK Food is one of the products parent company BARK offers for delivery to your furry best friends. BARK was founded in 2012 and has grown to be an industry leader in subscription options for dogs. BARK’s goal has always been to enhance the lives of our dogs, and in an easy way. What’s easier than something coming straight to your door and making your dog’s day? Not much, we say.BARK Food: The Same Great Customer Experience as All Their Other Products

Horse Riding for Absolute Beginners

While incredibly fun and exciting, horse riding can also be challenging. It takes a lot of practice, a lot of preparation, and a special connection between the horse and the rider. More often than not, it takes years of patient work for riders to become professionals at riding. Of course, everyone has to start somewhere, and all beginnings can be challenging. If you are a beginner horse rider, don’t rush into things. Getting too far ahead of yourself can lead to accidents, injuries, and potentially fatal situations. Horse riding accidents are no joke, so before mounting a horse, follow these tips and tricks reserved for horse riding for absolute beginners!What to Know Before Riding a Horse – Step By Step Process for BeginnersIt would be silly to think that absolute beginners can’t ride a horse. It is not logical to think so, since everyone was an absolute beginner at one point. Still, you should not rush into it unprepared, or without professional supervision. There are many aspects to horse riding, from the abilities of the horse, to the environment, and then to you personally. Only when everything is in balance, can riding begin. First and foremost, is the safety equipment. When riding horses, safety is paramount. These are magnificent and powerful animals you are working with, and such power carries with it plenty of potential danger. Before you get up on a horse, put on your safety helmet, designed for horse riders especially. You should never mount up without your helmet on, even after years of riding. Remember that once astride, you are several feet up in the air. If you happen to fall off a horse at high speed, and from such a height, hitting your head on the ground can be fatal. It goes without saying that helmets should always be on. If you can, secure your riding boots and other horse-riding equipment. Every bit counts, not only because of safety but because of easier riding as well. Once the equipment is secured, it's riding time. Of course, if you never rode a horse, you should not begin without supervision and all on your own. Do it with professionals and on specially trained horses. But even so, you will want to stay alert at all times and composed. Don’t get too excited or relaxed, but stay on your toes mentally. Keeping on top of the situation can help you master the basics faster.When mounting up on your ride, you will want someone to hold the horse and keep it steady. A fidgety and scared horse can make mounting difficult. Now, supposing that your saddle is all hooked up and secured properly, you can proceed to climb up. Place your left foot into the stirrup while standing at your mount’s side. Don’t push your entire foot into the stirrup – just the front part. Keep the reins loose in your hand, gently rise up on your stirruped foot and swing your free leg (the right one) over the horse and onto the other side of the horse. With that, you should be able to gently sit down into the saddle and place your other foot into the other stirrup. Simple as that, you are on a horse. Of course, if this procedure is too challenging for you, you can use a special mounting block or a step ladder.Now it is on to the riding. Your horse riding instructor should tell you all the details, and the “riding” will probably be a light walk or a slow trot. Nevertheless, you should be as relaxed as possible, and not frightened. If you’re cool and collected, your horse will be calm as well. Keep the reins loose in your hands at all times and sit straight, tall, and firm. When it is time for your mount to move forward, you should give them a gentle nudge or squeeze with both of your heels. If this signal is too soft and the horse does not register it, you can bump with the heels instead, albeit gently. This is the classic cue for beginning to walk. Any other instructions from your riding instructor should also be taken into account. While walking, you can simply turn into a light trot – or a “horse jog”. Just bump the horse lightly again, in the same way as before, and they should take the cue to speed up. You will notice that the movements are different, and a lot bumpier as the horse jolts up and down. This might be odd at first, or even uncomfortable, but remember that it is all about practice and getting used to it. Listen to the instructor’s tips and rules, and you’ll be good. In time, you should be able to learn galloping, canter, and all the other paces of horse riding. Be perseverant! Follow the teacher’s instructions about stopping the horse. Slow the movement down to a slow walk, and gently pull on the reins. This is the signal for stopping, and can be accompanied by a low vocal command: “Oooh”. Once halted, you can slowly dismount. Again, keep the reins loose in your hands, and then complete the mount-up procedure, but in reverse! It shouldn’t be too challenging, especially with your riding instructor by your side. And that’s that! In a few simple moves, you can complete your first beginner’s horse ride. Again, do not do it unsupervised, with an untrained horse, or with other beginners. Injuries can occur in such situations. But in a supervised environment, you should be ok. Everyone can learn to ride horses if they are able: just be patient, confident, and take things one step at a time!

Heroic Dog Sniffs Out Electronic Evidence Against Suspected Pedophile

We’ve always known that a dog’s olfactory system is pretty downright impressive. And we know that dogs are known for being able to sniff out everything from truffles to COVID-19 to cancer.But according to the Associated Press, a dog named Hidu is a hero because he was able to sniff out electronic evidence needed to prosecute a suspected pedophile who’d been hiding out in Mexico City. A Netherlands-based group that fights human trafficking—Free A Girl—warned the U.S.-based group Operation Underground Railroad (OUR) that a Dutch man who had pedophilia cases against him in the Netherlands fled to Mexico City. The man had openly supported sexual activity with children.OUR and other activist groups joined with Mexican prosecutors and an incredible furry detective Hidu to look for the suspect. Hidu was trained by Jordan Detection K9 Academy to sniff out electronic memory devices. The team used social media and chat rooms to entice the suspect into a trap that confirmed he was in Mexico. Matt Osborne is the director of Global Operations for OUR. The suspect told Osborne’s team that he was in a dangerous area and didn’t want to give his address but suggested they meet at a gas station. So, in early June, Mexico City prosecutors met the man at the gas station and put him in prison for charges of drug and weapons possession on top of human trafficking. The team found the apartment he’d been hiding out in and then OUR brought Hidu in to sniff out triphenylphosphine oxide. Also known as TPPO, it’s a chemical that’s used to coat electronic devices like flash drives or memory cards—things that carry lots of evidence but are often easily hidden and hard to find. They’re necessary for prosecution, though, as they’re the evidence of crimes perpetrated.Hidu had only finished training two weeks before, but he didn’t even flinch at finding the suspect’s devices—all loaded with evidence of child sexual abuse and trauma.Hidu found a phone hidden in a pile of dirty laundry, as well as more electronic evidence that had been taped behind a painting hung on the wall. Osborne said that those hiding spaces the hard drives were found in were difficult for a human to find, but Hidu had no problem sniffing them out. Because of Hidu’s heroism and olfactory talents, the prosecution team was able to collect four terabytes of evidence of child sexual abuse.As the world moves more and more into electronic dependence, dogs like Hidu will become more important in the fight to protect humans, and particularly children. Todd Jordan is the owner of Jordan Detection K9 Academy, and he says that electronic dogs are now more in need because of the way the world is, and he believes every internet crime task force should have a dog like Hidu.We agree. Well done, Hidu. You’re a very good boy!Image: Operation Underground Railroad

The Difference Between Probiotics and Digestive Enzymes for Cats

Before giving your cat either of these supplements, it’s wise to consult with your veterinarian to be sure you’re making the right choice and to be certain you’re providing the highest quality supplements that are made specifically for cats. In addition to that, take some time to learn about these supplements so you can have a clearer understanding of how they work. To get started, check out the information below. The Basics About Feline ProbioticsPut simply, probiotics are beneficial bacteria that live in the gut and support digestion. When these are depleted, such as after a pet has taken antibiotics, digestive problems might occur. So, by giving your cat a probiotics supplement, you may be able to replenish the number of good bacteria and relieve her symptoms. The key, though, is to give your companion a top-quality supplement that’s made specifically for felines. This will help ensure she gets the right types of probiotics that will be effective. You also want to be sure you give your pet a supplement with adequate amounts of probiotics to ensure she gets a dose that will help make a difference in her digestive health. The Basics About Feline Digestive EnzymesDigestive enzymes also help with digestion, but they work in a different way. There are multiple types of digestive enzymes, which help break down the food that your kitty eats. Protease is the enzyme that helps break down protein, while amylase helps break down carbohydrates and lipase helps break down fat. So, in addition to feeding your pet a species-appropriate, high-quality diet, providing digestive enzymes might help ensure that your cat is able to properly absorb the nutrients in food. Once your kitty’s body is able to absorb and utilize the various nutrients from her food, her overall wellness can be supported. But, again, it’s necessary to give her supplements that are made specifically for felines. And it’s also important to administer digestive enzyme supplements properly to ensure they will be effective. Talk to Your Veterinarian About Probiotics and Digestive Enzymes As you can see, probiotics and digestive enzymes can both be used to support a cat’s digestive health. And when your kitty’s digestion is strong, other areas of her health can benefit as well. Your pet might need just one or both of these types of supplements, depending on what her symptoms are and whether you are planning on providing the supplements to maintain an already healthy digestive tract or to relieve symptoms and improve the way the digestive system functions. Remember, if your cat is experiencing digestive ailments, it’s super important that you talk to a veterinarian about her symptoms. That way, you can get the right diagnosis and treatment, which might include digestive enzymes and/or probiotics.

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