10 Bizarre Animal Friendships That’ll Make You Mushy

Best Horses for Jumping

In the equine world, there are numerous roles a horse can fulfill. A horse can be bred for hard work – pulling plows and equipment, logging, and carrying heavy loads. They can also be exclusively bred for high-speed racing, where endurance is key. A horse can be bred for casual riding as well, or for competitive shows where the ability to jump high is an absolute must. Jumping horses need to display a certain set of characteristics and physical traits, in order to be successful in this sport. And that means that not all breeds are suited for this role. If you are looking for a jumping horse but don’t know where to start, we will help narrow the selection. Here is the list of the best horses for jumping – each one has the selective traits and abilities that can make them the true champions at equestrian jumping shows. Read on!

Adoptable Dog of the Week – Hannah

This lovely girl needs someone to give her a second chance at a happily ever after! Our Adoptable Dog of the Week is Hannah, a six year old Labrador Retriever and Catahoula Leopard Dog mix from Indianapolis, Indiana. She is spayed, current on her shots, and house trained. Hannah doesn’t mind older children and does well with dogs (that have a personality similar to hers), but hasn’t been tested around cats. Hannah’s TaleHannah has been picked up as a stray dog by a local shelter, but has been very stressed out in the shelter’s kennel – she has significantly relaxed since being transferred to a rescue. She is a sweet dog that only wants to have a family of her own, where she could really blossom and show her beautiful personality to the fullest. She is playful (balls are her favorite toy ever), but isn’t too energetic or demanding – she’d do great with a family that leads a quiet lifestyle and wants a mellow companion that doesn’t need daily adventures to be happy.While Hannah can be a bit shy and distrustful at first, once she gets a chance to meet you, she will quickly warm up to you and shower you with affection once she feels safe and relaxed around you. She’ll love to snuggle up to you, kick it back, and simply unwind while she’s getting some much-wanted ear scratches and belly rubs – she really is a loving dog that only wants that love to be returned by someone.Hannah is house-trained, has great leash manners, and has never made a mess or an issue when left alone – she is a very well-behaved gal. She has been around kids in the rescue but has been scared and startled by curious toddlers, so it’s best if she goes to an adult-only home or a family with older children. Hannah is good around dogs but gets really stressed by young, energetic dogs that can be pushy, and it would be better if her canine sibling would be an older dog or a pooch with a similarly mellow character.If you want to learn more about Hannah or adopt her, contact S.O.A.R. Initiative, Inc. for additional information.

US Shelters Overwhelmed With the Number of Guinea Pig Surrenders

Unfortunately, animal shelters all across the United States are noting a rise of abandoned pets this year, but one particular animal is topping the list, with an uptick of 25% when compared to last year’s statistics – guinea pigs. You might be surprised to learn that these small, fluffy animals are being surrendered in such high numbers, but the risings costs of food and gas are obviously having a big effect on the finances of pet parents, which are forced to abandon their pets due to being unable to care for them longer.Guinea pigs are one of those pets that people often think are low maintenance and easy to care for, so it’s not unusual that many of them got adopted during the pandemic – but once people started to realize that basic costs of care for guinea pigs have significantly changed, so did the fate of these furry critters change as well. New York’s Animal Care Centers (ACC) reports that in comparison to last year's 200 surrendered guinea pigs, they’ve already had over 650 cases of abandoned guinea pigs.It doesn’t help that most guinea pigs come from pet shops, either – when they are sold through a store, there’s no vetting process, which makes impulse buys possible. People often get guinea pigs for their kids and end up abandoning them when their children grow bored of their new pet, or decide on having a guinea pig pet thinking it’s low-maintenance and won’t need much attention, care, or space in the house – of course, this is is far from the truth. Once people realize that guinea pigs are an animal with needs like any other, which can live up to 10 years, need veterinary care, a special diet, and daily cleaning and social interaction, they quickly get overwhelmed and regret their decision. To make matters even worse, ACC is the only rescue in the area that actually takes in guinea pigs – pet rescues that accept small animals are generally considered rare. This begs the question what becomes of other unwanted guinea pigs – and how long before those few shelters that take them in become completely overwhelmed?The best way to prevent such devastating situations is to think hard before getting any pet, no matter how low-maintenance or undemanding you think they are. Any pet you pick, no matter if it’s a dog, a fish, or a lizard, will have needs, from a balanced diet to proper housing to veterinary care and beyond. If you are not prepared to fully care for your animal for as long as they live, you shouldn’t even entertain the idea of getting one. What’s more, instead of buying small animals from a pet store, it’s always a better idea to seek out shelters local to your area that rescue small animals and adopt rather than shopping – not only will you help the shelters take in more small animal in need, but you’ll give your new pet a second chance at a happy, fulfilled life by your side.

Best Horses for Trail Riding

For avid horse riders, it is not all about competing and shuffling through different equestrian competitions. Sure, you can excel at barrel riding, obstacle courses, racing, and even dressage – but there is also a less competitive, calmer side of horse riding to explore. When you want to feel one with nature and deepen the bond between you and your horse, trail riding is the thing to do. Just brave the wilds, explore the trails, and see what your mount is truly capable of. Trail riding is a popular equine activity, and can last from just a few hours up to several days and weeks. Of course, trail riding can have a competitive side as well – if that’s your cup of tea. Either way, you will need a special mount in order to succeed: a horse that is sure-footed, hardy, and able to tackle any type of terrain. This list of the 10 best horses for trail riding will certainly help you in your selection – read on to find a perfect match!

Adoptable Dog of the Week - Nona

Sweet, goofy, and charming as they come, this little gal is looking to settle down with a furever family! Our Adoptable Dog of the Week is Nona, a 3 years old mixed-breed dog from Madison, Wisconsin. She is spayed, up to date on her vaccinations, microchipped, and dewormed. Nona gets along with other dogs and doesn’t seem to mind cats or little kids.Nona’s TaleThis adorable pooch weighs only 16 pounds, but she has a lot of spirit! At first, when she was rescued, she was a bit shy, but now, her personality shines – she is friendly. affectionate, silly, and playful. Nona loves getting pets and head rubs, but she also enjoys playing with all sorts of toys, especially those she can chase after. She’d love to have someone to take her on hikes where she could explore the great outdoors, but she’d be content with having a fenced-in backyard where she could continue with one of her favorite activities – chipmunk stake-outs.Nona was fostered with dogs of all shapes and sizes and has done great with all of them, so she wouldn't mind being adopted into a family that already has a dog. She was also OK with the cat she’d been around – as in didn’t show interest in her – so she could get along with a feline that doesn’t acknowledge her or wants to play. Children are also fine with Nona, as she liked any kid she had a chance to meet – as long as they are respectful and gentle with a dog.She is crate trained and her house training is going great, so you won’t have your hands full with Nona. If she sounds like the perfect dog for your family, contact Paddy's Paws rescue to learn more about her and the adoption process.

A Dog’s Tail Serves More For Communication Than Physical Function

Dogs and tails go together like snips and snails, but new research from an international group of scientists suggests that a dog’s tail doesn’t serve as a functional or protective feature like a lizard’s or squirrel’s but more of a way to communicate–with other animals and with us. Where other studies suggest that the tails of squirrels, lizards and other animals may help with balance or even hunting, this study suggests that a dog’s tail is likely more a communication tool. The scientists involved in this non-peer-reviewed paper titled “Tail wags the dog is unsupported by biomechanical modeling of Canidae tails use during terrestrial motion, wanted to look into what the tail did with regard to movement facilitation, or whether it helped protect from nuisances like bugs or flies, and whether or not they were instead communication tools.Dr. Ardian Jusufi studies animal locomotion at the Max Planck Institute for Intelligent Systems in Stuttgart, Germany. With his international teammates from the Friedrich-Schiller-University and the Georgia Institute of Technology, he developed a mathematical model that let them look at what happens when dogs move their legs and tails, use their torsos and when they jump.The research team concluded that the tail movements of dogs didn’t seem to have any effect on the trajectory of a dog as he jumped, with the implication that a tail isn’t as vital for agility in dogs as it is in other animals. According to the paper, inertial impacts of the tail moving on complex activities like jumping have little to no effect and using the tail during jumping only offers very low amounts of the center of gravity stability. They believed then that dogs’ tails were necessary for other means, like communication and possibly pest control, but not for balance or anything that requires agility.Other research has suggested that dogs use tails to convey messages like humans do with their body language. From showing friendliness to submission to fear and dominance, dogs use their tails to express mood, willingness to engage in play or even the detection of a threat. The paper concludes that dog tails may have once served a larger evolutionary purpose, but now they are what is used to relay feelings, which is a very important and useful skill for pack animals.

How to Socialize Your Rabbit

At a first glance, rabbits might seem like fairytale pets – so cute, fluffy, and affectionate, you just want to snuggle them all day long. Of course, they can be all that, but not without a bit of diligent work on your part. Just like any other pet, rabbits too require proper socialization in order to discover their best and most affectionate traits. Skip this important step in their upbringing, and they can grow up to be quite like their wild counterparts – difficult to handle, mischievous, grumpy, and completely uninterested in interaction with you. A rabbit that has not been socialized will shun its owner, avoid handling, lash out and bite (yes, bunnies can bite too!), avoid enclosures, become difficult to potty train, and avoid other bunnies and pets. Needless to say, this won’t be enjoyable, neither for you nor for your pet.It is important to remember that socialization should be started from an early age. You should not wait too long to begin spending quality time with your fluffy little pet. As soon as they are stable and healthy, and have passed the fragile baby period, you should begin socialization. One of the easiest ways to socialize with your rabbit is to spend some one-on-one time with them. Start small, and don’t try to handle them from the get-go – let them get used to your presence at first. Don’t hesitate to get all the way down to the floor, to meet your rabbit’s eye level. This is where the rabbits feel safest, so they will be more open to connecting with you. In time, you can begin handling them, easy at first and then more freely later. Just be careful to do it properly, so as not to hurt the delicate bunny. Always take things slow with a rabbit. Sudden moves and unexpected actions can easily frighten them, and cause unwanted stress. Take slow and measured movements and arm yourself with patience. As time passes and your rabbit gets to know you, they will be much more welcoming to you and your presence. Of course, you should definitely arm yourself with a lot of food and tasty treats. There is no easier way to connect with a pet than through food. So don’t be hesitant to reward any good behavior, response to your command, or just a good first step with a tasty treat. This will surely entice further success. Remember that spayed or neutered rabbits will socialize much better and more easily, and they will also accept handling much faster. In fact, rabbits that are not spayed or neutered will often straight out refuse handling. If you have completed this important step, you may try introducing a rabbit pair for your pet, as it can contribute to the socialization process. Of course, you should choose a pair for your rabbit very carefully. Consider all the options: whether the pair is male or female, socialized, or of the same age. If the differences are too great, the two rabbits might not pair well. In the end, with patient work and dedication, you should quickly cover all the necessary milestones in rabbit socialization. Make sure that you do these steps often – daily if possible – and always be patient and slow-paced. In no time your rabbit will show its affectionate and friendly face, and become the wonderful pet it can really be.

How to Rabbit-Proof Your Home

Pet rabbits are lively and fun animals, and very entertaining to be around. When not snoozing and huddling, they will love to explore, hop about, and discover new nooks and crannies around your home. However, they have an affinity for chewing, nibbling, digging, and crawling into any space they find interesting – and interesting doesn’t necessarily mean safe, as well. Because of this, you will have to rabbit-proof your home, both to keep your rabbit safe, but also to preserve your furniture, gadgets, and any other valuables your bunny might find tempting to nibble on. But if you are a first-time rabbit owner, you might be clueless as to what exactly needs to be done to successfully rabbit-proof your home. Here are some classic tips and tricks from experienced rabbit owners – do these, and you’ll keep both your pet and your home safe and sound.Protect wires, cords, and cables We all know that bunnies simply love to chew and nibble on things. It is their way of exploring and getting to know their surroundings. However, in a modern home setting, this instinct isn’t only bad in terms of material damage, but it can also be dangerous for your bunny. One of the first things you will have to take care of is wires. Our homes have plenty of cables all around the floor – if a rabbit nibbles on them and reaches the wires, the outcome can be fatal. There are several ways you can rabbit-proof cables, and the best (and the easiest) way is to purchase special flexible tubing. Most hardware and electronics stores keep them. This tubing can encase several cables at once, making things neater – but also perfectly protected from your pet’s chompers. Of course, any other reliable solution is accepted, as long as you try keeping all cables out of a rabbit’s reach, whether somewhere higher or tucked away. Use pet-safe material to conceal and protect furnitureOf course, there are also things in your home that won’t harm your rabbit, but should also be protected nonetheless. Sofa legs, table legs, elaborate door frames, baseboards, and anything else that is close enough to the floor – all of it can be nibbled and chewed down to scraps. If you want to keep your possessions pristine, you should find ways to rabbit-proof them. In this case, anything goes, as long as the material isn’t toxic to bunnies. Cardboard tubes from paper rolls, flexible tubing, and premade protective solutions supplied by pet shops – anything can help prevent a rabbit from chewing his way through.Restrict access to certain areasOf course, one of the simplest solutions is simply blocking off certain areas you don’t want your pet to go in, whether the space is unsafe for them (e.g. floor level plants that can’t be moved) or if you don’t want to risk them ruining something that you can’t conceal or protect. You can opt for classic pet or baby fences that can be found in any pet store or general store and can effectively block doorways, staircases, and such. Keep your bunny safe in the room of your choosing, and keep the next room out of bounds. Efficient and simple! As long as they have plenty of room to hop about and explore, it doesn’t matter which room of your home they are in. Don’t forget about the flooringIn some cases, you might have to remove a carpet or get rid of your fancy rugs. Bunnies love to dig, and might find your carpet a suitable digging ground – or even realize that a carpet could be fun to chew on. In no time, your precious rug might end up all torn and tattered. It is best to keep your rabbit in a room with hardwood floors, tiles, laminate, etc, but make sure the surface isn’t too slippery, either. Rabbits don’t feel safe on surfaces that are slippery and can actually injure themselves if they happen to slip. Remove any toxic/poisonous items from your homeLast, but not least, is the danger of poisonous houseplants. That exotic flower or that spider plant you always loved might not be so harmless after all. Some common houseplants can be poisonous to rabbits, so make sure you keep them out of reach. The same goes for foods that are yummy to you but might kill or seriously harm your bunny – things such as avocado, chocolate, potatoes, and mushrooms (to name a few) are all dangerous for rabbits.In the end, try to be around when your bunny roams free around the house. With your supervision, everything becomes safer, and you don’t have to worry about your pet getting into trouble while you weren’t looking.

Can Shock Collars Damage a Dog’s Vocal Cords?

You may even be thinking that a shock collar might be the quickest way to train your pooch that barking at the neighbor, the cat, or a leaf blowing by the back door, is no longer acceptable. But you would be wrong.Let’s start by saying that no reputable dog trainer uses a shock collar to modify the behavior of a house pet. The only caveat to this rule might be hunting or guard dogs, where imminent danger often requires a quick signal to the animal to heed a command. That said, punishment-based training – which is what the pain from a shock collar delivers – can damage both the bond between you and your pet as well as his self-confidence. It’s discouraged by the Canadian Veterinary Medical Association and humane societies throughout North America.How Does a Shock Collar Work?Also known as training collars, e-collars and remote training collars, the shock collar looks similar to a regular dog collar but has two thick metal prongs that rest up against your pet’s vocal cords. When he barks, the vibration causes an electrical current to pass through these contact points. The level of current can be modified remotely by the owner and typically ranges from a milder tingling effect to a full-blown, painful shock. Because you don’t know what your dog’s tolerance to pain will be, this can become a dangerous exercise in trial and error. And that’s why only professional trainers working with large breed guard dogs should be at the controls.And be aware that while the shock itself may be temporary the fear and psychological damage caused to your pet can be long-lasting. Because dogs may not immediately connect the dots, he isn’t going to understand what he did to cause this painful outcome. As a result, he may become fearful and cautious, losing the confidence needed to develop into a happy, secure pooch.Can Shock Collars Damage Vocal Cords?The short answer is yes, with continued use a shock delivered from this type of collar can damage your pet’s throat, and vocal cords and under certain conditions, cause electrical burns if the unit malfunctions. These injuries can happen if the fit is too tight or the electric current used, is too strong for the size of the dog. And for smaller dogs or animals with health issues, the high levels of stress caused by wearing a shock collar and the resultant increased heart rate that comes from painful shocks can be lethal.Alternative Solutions:So, we agree that a shock collar isn’t the right way to bring a sense of calm to your home workspace. But that still begs the question of what to do with a yappy dog and those workload deadlines.Before you can teach your dog to “curb his enthusiasm” you need to understand what’s causing his need to continually speak up. As recommended by the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA), a few questions you could try asking yourself are these:1. Where does the barking typically occur? Front door? Window? Outside your closed office door? Back door leading to the garden?2. When does the barking happen? Around a meal period? When he typically goes for his walk? After eating when he may need to go out?3. Who or what is the target of the barking? Has another dog just walked by? Is Amazon delivering a package? Is he peckish and barking at the treat jar?You’re looking for both random drivers such as the doorbell ringing unexpectedly to routines that may have been broken – like forgetting to let him out for a comfort break after he’s eaten his morning meal.If you’ve noticed a pattern, congratulations. You may well be on your way to modifying his behavior when these situations present. And while there are several online training sessions worth checking out, we’re sharing some recommendations from the guru of all things “dog”, the American Kennel Club (AKC).Cause: He Can’t See YouWho’s that barking and scratching at your door? He knows you’re in there and is determined to reach you. I’ve had both cats and dogs scratching at my door during an important Zoom call, so I know the frustration. What AKC suggests is that you leave the radio, TV, iPad or other device turned on and play music or a Netflix classic in a separate living space. The idea is that these sounds approximate the noises your pet hears when you’re there with him. He doesn’t feel quite so isolated and with a little background noise, may not hear those pesky outside noises either. Tip: Spotify and other streaming services offer Music for Dogs that are designed to soothe.Cause: BoredomHo-hum. Are you done yet? If your dog’s impatience is causing him to bark to get you up and to interact with him, it’s time to break out the toys. And puzzles. And interactive videos. Bury some treats in a Kong, hide some high-value treats in a puzzle board, or get him one of those flavored nylon bones that seem to last forever. The trick is to give him something else to do. A snuffle mat where he has to root around for pieces of dry kibble can also act as a feeding mat to keep him busy, longer.Cause: Too Much EnergyThis is a likely cause for barking with dogs whose pet parents work from home and tend to forget about those morning walks that help to burn off energy. Don’t underestimate how well-behaved (and quiet) a pooped pup can be when you’re trying to get work done. And if timing is tight but the budget isn’t, consider hiring a dog walker to pick up your pooch at a set time each day. They get a workout and you get at least one full hour of total peace.Cause: You Always RespondThe solution is right there in the cause. You always react to your pet’s barking and that’s what he’s looking for. Whether you’re turning to him and telling him to settle down, are putting him outside for a little “you” time, or are handing him a bone and asking him to go to his crate or bed… he’s getting what he wanted - you. Solution? Don’t respond. When he finally quiets down, reward him with a treat. But only after he’s been laying quietly and not barking for a few minutes. And yes, ignoring his yapping while you’re trying to get some work done, is going to be a challenge.Cause: You’ve Not Asked Him to StopOne of the more popular methods of training your pooch to think twice about barking s called “Quiet” training. When your dog begins to bark – regardless of whether it’s an unexpected trigger or he simply wants your attention – say “quiet” in a calm yet firm voice. When he stops, call him away from the source (window, door, another animal) and ask him to sit. Upon him obeying this command, provide him with his treat as a reward. In some instances, you may want to gently hold his muzzle to get his attention, then issue the command.The above training tips are effective alternatives to shock collars. They’ll help build a bond between you and your pet along with a tacit understanding of what you expect from him. And in the end, help bring a little peace and quiet to your working world.

Gluten-Free Pumpkin Spice Dog Treats

The first leaf has fallen and so we’ve jumped on the Autumn bandwagon with our Gluten-Free Pumpkin Spice Dog Treats. Perfect for pooches with sensitivities, this fall favorite is gluten free. Plus, it comes packed with pureed pumpkin, which is amazing for a dog’s digestive system. On top of that, it contains of vitamins, such as vitamin A, E and C, as well as iron and potassium. But don’t dip one of these cookies in your pumpkin spice latte – these treats are for dogs only! Ingredients:2½ cups gluten free flour2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon ginger1 cup pumpkin puree1/2 cup unsweetened apple sauce1 egg1 tablespoon vegetable or olive oilDirections:1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together oil, pumpkin, applesauce, and egg until smooth.2. Fold in the flour, cinnamon, and ginger with a spatula and then knead with your hands until the dough is thoroughly mixed.3. Shape dough into a couple disks and cover in plastic wrap.4. Chill dough overnight.5. Preheat oven to 325° F. Line cookie sheets with parchment paper.6. Roll dough out to a thickness of 1/4 inch between two pieces of parchment paper. Cut out shapes using a cookie cutter.7. Place cutouts on parchment lined cookie sheets.8. Place in oven and bake for 30 minutes.9. Remove from oven and let cool on cooling racks for 2-3 hours. 10. Place treats in an airtight containers and store in refrigerator or freezer.

How to Train Your Pet to Be a Visiting Therapy Dog

So, you think your gentle, people-loving pooch would be a great fit as a nursing home Therapy dog? Let’s start by saying congratulations on exploring this option. Pet visitation programs have become popular across the globe because of their proven ability to enhance the quality of life and help improve the health of seniors including those suffering from depression, dementia and Alzheimer’s disease.And while you may be right about your little buddy being an ideal candidate for this type of work, there’s more to it than simply a winning disposition and disarming grin.Breeds that QualifyWonder which breeds qualify? The short answer is that all breeds qualify however due to potential liability issues, each dog requires a certain level of certification before he gets to share the love. And because what this certification actually looks like can vary from state to state, province to province and even between the various retirement communities, you’ll want to start with the basic accreditations.Let’s Get StartedThe American Kennel Club (AKC) and the Canadian Kennel Club (CKC) offer behavioral certifications called the Canine Good Citizen (AKC) and the Canine Good Neighbor (CKC). Both programs include a series of tests that your pooch must perform and pass in front of a live evaluator.Each club’s testing system requires among other things, that your dog to be friendly with strangers, that he come when called, sit and stay on command, be receptive to patting and have a clean, well-groomed appearance. The TestsThe requirements below, are pulled from both the AKC and CKC testing requirements. For each objective, we share training tips on how to get your pooch up to speed and ready for his final evaluation. That evaluation takes no more than 10 to 15 minutes and is conducted by accredited, dog-friendly folk who are located throughout North America and are both supportive and rooting for your best buddy to claim his title.1. Willing to accept the approach of a friendly stranger reaching out to shake hands with you.Socialization is key here and if your pet wasn’t introduced to new sights, sounds, and faces when he was a fearless little pup, he’ll likely feel anxious when taken out of his comfort zone as an adult. Your goal is to build his confidence and lessen his fears by providing him with gradual, controlled exposure to new situations. Plan to:· Bring him to a dog park and remain within sight in case he feels crowded or overwhelmed by other dogs.· Introduce him to new faces – both adults and children. Progress can be measured in his reaction to these new situations. Is he comfortable when strangers approach – meaning he doesn’t growl, bark, lunge, or hide behind you?· As he progresses, consider dropping him at a doggie daycare center from time to time. This allows him to mix with new faces in a supervised situation where you’re not present. And staff are great at sharing report cards on just how well your dog integrated with others and if there were any hot buttons.2. Sit politely and accept being patted over a period of time without shying away or showing wariness. Meeting this requirement relies heavily on how well socialized your dog is. If he’s passed the meet and greet phase with flying colors, it’s time to introduce him to the sensation of being patted and touched by strangers. Start with people you know but who your dog may not be as familiar with. He should be able to sit, stay and accept the pat without mouthing, pulling back or feeling threatened (treats help keep your pooch on point).This needs to happen in a controlled manner, one person at a time, and with them instantly withdrawing if your pet becomes anxious. His comfort level with being touched and cuddled by strangers will grow with continued exposure. It’s not a process you can rush and is a step that is critically important to how well he will perform as a therapy dog.3. Be responsive when taken for a short walk including completing, left, right and about-turns as well as stopping. One of the five basic commands, “heel” can be a tricky one to master when your dog is excitedly tugging and pulling in an effort to get the walk started. Because this is an important discipline for a Therapy dog, clicker training might be the way to go. And it’s a fairly simple process. Call your dog to come to you as you start to walk (the standard heel position is on your left side). When he arrives, say “good boy/girl” while at the same time clicking the clicker and offering up that all-important treat.Practice this a few times until your pet has the hang of it. Then eliminate the verbal command and simply use the clicker to draw your dog over to you and into position. Once the task has been completed successfully, mix it up by changing your pace or direction to require your dog to regain his heel position and adapt his stride.4. Be comfortable moving through a crowd of strangers without jumping up.Here’s another requirement that relies on your pet being fully socialized and capable of interacting with strangers, minus fear, aggression, or over-exuberance. And it’s an important skill for Therapy dogs who may need to move through crowded nursing homes or hospitals while remaining calm and focused. Start with taking him on short, leashed walks of no more than five to 10 minutes through a crowd where he can still see ahead and to the sides. Offer plenty of verbal praise (with treats) as he remains focused on the walk and non-reactive to the outside stimulation.Over time, your pet will change his association with crowds and strangers from a fearful experience to one loaded with encouragement and treats. Gradually extend the length of your walks to help reinforce the positive/non-threatening nature of these situations.5. Sit and stay on command, then remain in the stay position when you walk away before returning.The American Kennel Club emphasizes the need for a start and finish to the Stay command. Choose a word to be used exclusively to release your pet from the Stay position. It could be “over” or “OK” or “free” - you pick. Now, because it should be strictly for releasing your pet from his Stay, avoid choosing his name, “come”, or any other command word that might confuse when used later.When your pet has assumed a Sit or Down position, use the Stay command. Within a few seconds, use the release word and issue a treat. If he remains in his Stay position, encourage him to get up and come toward you.6. Sit, stay, and then come when called from a 30-foot distance.Once the Stay/Release command is mastered you’re ready to move on to the three Ds: Duration, Distance and Distractions.Duration is how long your dog remains in a stay position, Distance is how far you move away from your pet, and Distractions are all that stuff that can happen around him while he’s patiently waiting in the Stay position. All can be trained and controlled.· To build on Duration, issue the Stay command, count to three, then issue the release word with a treat. Repeat the process, increasing each interval by a few seconds. If he releases early, repeat the Sit/Stay commands and begin again.· Distance training takes longer and requires a little more patience. Deliver the Sit/Stay commands, then take one step back from your dog while he remains in the Stay position. Pause, then step back toward him and deliver the treat if he’s remained in place. Next, take two steps back, then forward to your dog. Repeat the process, adding an extra step each time.· It’s important to have mastered the Distance and Duration commands before adding Distractions. Noise, a squirrel, anything can draw your dog’s attention away from the task at hand. To de-sensitize your pet, add small distractions in a controlled environment such as your backyard. Increase the number and level of distractions, then move to a different environment and repeat. And up the game as it relates to treats. AKC recommends “higher value” options for this one.Want a handy training tip? Always hold treats up at chest level to prevent luring (dog just following the food versus the command).When your training is complete and your pet has received his Canine Good Citizen or Canine Good Neighbor certification, you’ll want to align yourself with an established Therapy dog program that can identify those facilities that are in need of this service. In the United States, the AKC website has a list of Therapy dog organizations including the Alliance of Therapy Dogs and Therapy Dogs International. In Canada, organizations such as St. John’s Ambulance are good places to start once you feel your dog is ready to start spreading the love.

Do Mixed-Breed Dogs Shed?

Not to be confused with Designer Dogs, mixed breeds (AKA mutts or Heinz 57s) will typically have a number of different breeds contributing to their DNA profile. And that’s why all those online doggy DNA kits are so popular. Families with dogs who look, sound, and act like a smorgasbord of different breeds want to know what issues (including health-related) they should be watching for down the line.With Designer Dogs, forecasting physical traits and characteristics are much easier because you’re working with just two breeds and both will be purebreds. So no “mud blood” to sort through here. And qualities such as being super-friendly, uber-chill and yes, non-shedding are going to be more predictable based on their known parentage. That’s one reason you see so many Labradoodles, Golden Doodles, Shepadoodles – and on and on - running around the dog parks these days. If it’s an “oodle” or a “poo”, the odds are it’s a Designer Dog chosen for his non-shedding properties.Related: Top 10 Non-Shedding Dog BreedsBut that doesn’t mean your standard little mutt of mixed-breed origin can’t be low-shedding. The gene found in Poodles that makes them non-shedding can also be found in some lines of Terrier and many of the smaller dog breeds such as Maltese, Bichon Frise and Lhasa Apso. So, if your pooch has any of the non- or low-shedding variants of the MC5R gene in his DNA, he may well reward you with a fluff-free house. In fact, my two dogs were labelled Schnoodles yet it’s clear from their physical appearance that there are breeds beyond just Poodle and Schnauzer at play. In their instances, the low-shed gene dominates and they are both non-shedding. Similarly, the genes of dogs known to be heavy shedders can be passed along to any offspring or even offspring of offspring, that share their DNA. Which breeds might those be?Related: Top 10 Dog Breeds that Shed the MostLet’s start with any dog that has a thick double coat. It’s typical of dogs from cold weather climates and it includes coarse outer hair with a soft, downy undercoat that helps keep him warm when temperatures drop. As a result, if you’re considered a dog that is identified as being a “cross” with a Labrador, Husky, Newfoundland, German Shepherd… you get the picture. These dogs are known to “blow” their coats twice a year when the seasons change. So, if you have your heart set on a mixed breed pup that comes from double-coat stock, plan to brush him weekly and splurge on a groomer when seasons change to help de-shed him and save on the lint rollers.But it’s not just the double-coats who shed heavily. Smaller dogs such as Pugs, Beagles, and all the way up to Dobermans and even Dalmatians can leave a pretty impressive trail of tiny hairs throughout the house. So, if shedding is a big issue for you, it may be best to lean toward the mixed breeds with a clear Poodle or Terrier leaning and stay on top of the weekly brushing.

Being An ‘Older’ Pet Parent May Come With Health Benefits

The study was published in the International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health. It suggested that being a dog parent, particularly if you’re ‘older’, may be better for your health than if you had a cat or don’t have any pets at all. Dr. Amy E. Albright is the study’s author. In an interview with PsyPost, she said, “The study is unique in that it is the first to investigate the potential benefits of pet ownership in a longitudinal sample of older adults balanced by sex (male vs. female), race (white vs. Black), and geographical location (urban vs. rural residence) which allows for the investigation of whether the potential benefits of pet ownership in later life differ by these individual characteristics.”She said that she and her team wanted to expand on the limited literature about the type of pets people owned in connection with depression and physical health outcomes in adults 65 years or older. The team included participants of that age group who lived in a community in Alabama between 1999-2001. Participants who lived in nursing homes were excluded. The participants completed an in-person interview and then follow-up phone interviews two times a year for eight years. They also self-reported on things like depression, health, physical activity and parentship.Not surprisingly, the results showed that regardless of geographic area, sex or race, dog parents were more likely to report having better health than non-pet parents. Interestingly, though, the researchers found that there were no real differences in health between cat parents and those who had no pets at all. An additional finding was that the better health in dog parents didn’t necessarily correlate with more walks for their dogs (often thought to be a main factor in why pet parents have better health in general), as only 8% of the respondents said they’d taken their dog for a walk in the past two weeks of reporting. They did say their dogs had access to backyards and parks.Dr. Albright contends there are obvious limitations with the research, mainly because the participants self-reported about their health and that’s quite subjective. Many factors can determine health outcomes in older adults particularly, such as genetics, environment, diet and activity level. She also believes that future studies would benefit from collecting data from people covering a more broad geographic area.Still, it’s good news for dog parents, especially more ‘seasoned’ dog parents–owning a dog is good for your emotional health and companionship and your physical health too!

Grooming Your Rabbit: Everything You Need to Know

For decades, rabbits have been quite popular pets – they boast many great personality traits and look cute to boot, so it’s not a big surprise. Of course, as all pets, they require plenty of care, affection, and attention to thrive, so they’re not any less demanding than a cat or a dog. And grooming plays a big part of that care process. It doesn’t only serve to make your rabbit look their best – it can help with many other aspects as well. After all, grooming is the path to cleanliness, and cleanliness is the foundation of good health.Grooming a Rabbit’s CoatWhen you think of pet bunnies, the first thing that often comes to mind is soft and endlessly fluffy fur. But in order to achieve that softness and delicate texture, your rabbit needs regular brushing and grooming. Still, before any grooming is to commence, you need to be certain that you did a good job at socializing and handling your pet rabbit. They are prey animals in nature, and as such, they can be quite fearful. From an early age, teach them that handling is nothing to be scared about. This will build your relationship, limit the natural feeling of fear, and allow you to groom them without a hitch. Once your bunny is comfortable with being handled, you can begin regular brushing every 3 to 7 days. This is important as it gets rid of any loose hair, which rabbits can ingest while they self-groom. This can lead to potentially serious health problems, and burden their digestive system. How often you brush often depends on the coat length of your rabbit – short-haired breeds can require infrequent brushing, as little as once per week, while long-haired ones can require daily brushing at times. Remember that rabbits have sensitive skin and delicate coats. You can’t use any old brush for grooming. Invest in a soft-bristled brush that is designed especially for rabbits. If you use a stiff and coarse brush, you can even cause some damage – not to mention that your rabbit will start hating the entire process, which is not good. Another crucial thing is to choose the right moment. If you see that your rabbit is fidgety, stressed, unhappy, or simply not in the mood, it’s best to wait a bit. Grooming them when they are not cooperating might cause them even more stress than necessary. When you begin grooming, start with the back end first – a rabbit needs a good cleaning in the hind area. Use a damp cloth or a special wet tissue, and carefully clean any remnants of pee or poop. This is a vital part of the grooming process. Then, as you actually begin brushing the fur, follow the natural direction of their hair, which often goes from the neck towards the bottom. Use gentle, even strokes, and don’t miss a spot. If you see any tufts of hair be sure to remove them – they are a big no-no. Clean their head with great care. You can dampen a common cotton ball and clean around their eyes, nose, and ears. Of course, don’t forget to check every spot on your pet’s body for signs of anything out of the ordinary. These include lumps, odd spots, mites, and anything similar.Nail TrimmingWhile trimming your bunny’s nails can be infinitely more challenging than simply brushing their fur, it’s still a necessary part of their grooming routine. Rabbit nails can grow very long, especially if they’re not active, and can become a hindrance – or even cause health issues if left completely neglected. The first thing to note, of course, is how you handle your bunny. They have to be fully comfortable with you if you want to trim their nails without much hassle – you don’t want them jumping out or wiggling while you’re cutting their nails.Place your bunny in your lap, on their back, with their feet looking up or, if they are not comfortable with being on their back, place them on a raised surface and lift their feet when it’s time to trim the nails. Be careful, though, because if you place them on a table, for instance, they might jump from a big height and injure themselves – only attempt this with docile bunnies. When you’re cutting their nails, don’t go too deep to avoid cutting into the quick, which would cause bleeding. If you're too afraid to cut your bunny’s nails on your own, you can get them to a vet and they can do it for you – have in mind that their nails should be trimmed once a month.ConclusionOnce you get a hang of it, rabbit grooming will prove to be a straightforward and simple affair. Make sure you’re thorough, gentle, and regular – and your pet won’t have issues with matted hair, loose hair ingestion, bad smells, and overall bad hygiene. After all, no bunny deserves to look bad! What’s more, your little grooming sessions can become a way to bond even more with your pet, and to keep up to date with their health status, by checking for anything out of the ordinary on their bodies, be it signs of parasites or unusual growth.

Why Enrichment Is Important for Rabbits and How to Provide It

It is no secret that rabbits make wonderful pets – they are fun, affectionate, and so sweet. However, when their needs are not properly met, these positive traits never come to the surface and your pet can instead display abnormal behavior such as aggression or apathy. As a responsible rabbit owner, you will need to provide environmental enrichment to your pet to make sure they thrive. Enrichment is a way to increase mental and physical stimulation, provide new daily activities, and make sure that your pet is enjoying their everyday routines. In turn, it keeps your bunny healthy and happy and keeps those negative behaviors at bay.What Is Rabbit Enrichment? Rabbits are intelligent animals, as well as sociable, and in the wild, they display various behaviors, habits, and quirks that are unique to their species. Rabbit enrichment is a way to recreate certain conditions and provide your pet with a safe and engaging environment that stimulates those natural behaviors, puts your rabbit at ease, and contributes to their emotional, mental, and physical well-being. Now, there are a number of ways to provide this enrichment and improve your pet’s quality of life – it’s up to you to find out which works best for your bunny’s needs.Best Ways to Provide Rabbit EnrichmentThe goal of rabbit enrichment is to improve your pet’s quality of life, and, quite literally, enrich it. Provide them with a number of daily activities that will stimulate their natural instincts and promote good behavior. Puzzles, toys, interactive gadgets, and makeshift burrows and tunnels will all entertain them and keep their brains working properly. Rabbits are very curious and intelligent animals, and this type of stimulation is very important in their daily lives. Another important part of enrichment for rabbits is socialization. Rabbits are very sociable and will need interaction on a daily level. Your company is great, of course, but won’t always be enough. Sometimes, rabbits require mates and friends of their own kind, and you might have to provide them. You can also introduce them to another owner’s rabbit, a kind and caring child, a gentle small doggo, and so on. Any form of new and friendly social interaction can really boost your rabbit’s mood and healthy development. A great lack of socialization can cause a string of abnormal behaviors, such as lethargy and violence, and in turn even health issues.The best way to provide proper enrichment to your pet is to build your own special rabbit enclosure that will be equipped with everything needed to provide stimulation. Let your imagination loose as you assemble a true bunny funhouse – a shelter with burrows to dig in, hideouts, nooks to be explored, toys, puzzles, hay to be nibbled, and anything else you might think of. ConclusionEvery rabbit owner should provide enrichment for their pet to stimulate their natural instincts and behaviors, and ensure their mental and physical wellbeing. Whether it’s rabbit toys, hideouts, burrows, or the company of another rabbit – it will depend on your preferences and your pet’s needs.Remember that routine is important in all pets’ lives – rabbit’s too. Knowing that fun times are just around the corner each day will make your rabbit a fun, inquisitive, sociable, and loveable pet to have. A big no-no in rabbit care is lack of enrichment. Keep your pet alone, neglected, or cooped up, and they can become bored, angry, lethargic, and in the end, depressed.

Ask the Animal Communicator: My Dog Is Always Hungry!

Dear Shannon, My dog, Maxie, is a seven-year-old Border Collie. She is a delightful companion – smart, sociable, and very gentle with our kids and their friends. There is just one problem. She is a bottomless pit. I swear she is never not hungry! We’ve had to dog-proof the refrigerator because Maxie figured out how to open it. We can’t store food in the bottom kitchen cupboards or the lower shelves of the pantry because Maxie will steal it and make such a mess. And when our family sits down for meals she paces and stares and whines and visits each of us, nudging us with her nose and paws and just generally being a pest. We don’t have people over that often, but when we do we have to confine Maxie to the bedroom to keep her away from the appetizers….and the guests. I’ve tried feeding Maxie more often (she gets a special kibble that her veterinarian recommends for her age and life stage) and we’ve tried using treat toys and slow feeders, but nothing works to take the edge off her hunger. Her vet says she is healthy and her latest labs look good. I don’t know what else to try.Can you talk to her?Polly, mom to Maxie, the all-you-can-eat dogShannon’s reply:Hi Polly,First things first – I want you to know I can personally relate to what you share. We have a dachshund who acts like we haven’t fed him in a week every time he eats….and every time we eat. Just so you know I get how irritating and frustrating your situation can feel!It sounds like you have an excellent canine veterinarian who is doing all the right things to make sure Maxie’s constant hunger doesn’t point to an underlying health imbalance. I think when you hear what Maxie had to share with me, her behavior will make more sense and generate some new ideas you can try.Maxie does come across as very intelligent, high energy and playful. She is a joyful being who loves her life and her family – you. But when I asked her about food, her energy turned chaotic. By that I mean – she showed me that she is clearly as frustrated by the situation as you are.I asked Maxie what her favorite food is, and she showed me a big plate piled high with all kinds of different colorful foods. The platter was steaming hot and had the most enticing aromas. It definitely looked a lot more like “people” food than dog kibble. This food had a lot of different tastes and textures and she showed me herself sitting around the table eating with you just like she was a person instead of a dog.When I showed her a mental picture of herself eating the kibble you described out of her dog bowl, her energy suddenly felt very subdued and sad. When I showed her a mental picture of the yummy platter again and her sitting at the table with you, her energy perked back up again.Next, I used some applied kinesiology to ask Maxie if she would benefit from more of a home-cooked diet rather than dog kibble and got a strong “yes.” Of course you should talk with your veterinarian to choose the best fresh food diet, whether raw, reconstituted fresh or something in between. Then I asked Maxie to tell me about her begging behaviors and she showed me an image of a whole group of dogs gathered together having fun. Then off to the side, away from the happy group, she showed me herself looking sad and lonely. The feeling that came with this image was one of being left out rather than hungry. Maxie comes across as a dog who loves to be the life of the party and chairperson of the guest greeting committee. She wants to have a part to play in your family – it almost feels like she is asking for a job to do and a way to participate. You may want to brainstorm some special “jobs” Maxie could do when you have parties and even when you are preparing daily meals. For example, if she knows how to open the frig, perhaps this could be a job she does for you to “help” you as you are getting dinner ready.Polly, I truly hope this information helps you to find some balance between mealtime harmony and meeting Maxie’s needs for meal variety and socialization. Please do keep in touch and let me know how it goes.From my heart,Shannon

Best Horses for Dressage

Dressage is one of the most popular equestrian competitions, and – contrary to popular belief – it requires great skill and tons of training. But, more than anything, this sport requires a great mount. Not all horse breeds will excel in this sport, however. It requires agility, flexibility, good balance, and plenty of stamina. And it also requires a horse with great intelligence. As a result, dressage has been commonly associated with the world’s most noble and exquisite horse breeds. Whether you are a beginner or veteran dressage rider, we’ve put together a list of the 10 best horses for dressage to help you find a perfect mount for this noble sport. With either one of these majestic animals beneath your saddle, great results are bound to come pouring in.

Should You Train Your Cat to Use the Toilet?

Sure, you can find videos of cats jumping onto a toilet, doing their business, and even flushing when they’re done, but is it a good idea to train your kitty to do this? Here are a few things to consider so you can decide what’s right for you and your pet.It Isn’t in Line with Your Cat’s Natural BehaviorsCats prefer being able to dig before they go to the bathroom, and then covering up their urine or feces when they’re done. They simply can’t do that when they’re using a toilet. In fact, if you watch videos of cats using toilets, you may see that they try to cover up what they just did by wiping the toilet seat. In addition to that, a cat has to balance carefully on a toilet in order to use it, and this may be awkward or uncomfortable. On the other hand, when they use a litter box, they can find a comfortable position that is, again, more natural for them. Plus, they don’t need to worry about losing their balance and falling into a toilet full of water and waste when they’re using a regular litter box. Because cats who use toilets can’t do what’s most natural, they might experience stress, and that might ultimately cause them to avoid the toilet and eliminate in other areas of your home. You May Miss Signs of Health ConcernsEvery time you scoop your cat’s litter, you can look for signs that something might be wrong. For instance, you might notice that there is a lot more or a lot less urine than usual. Or, you might realize that your cat had loose stools or smaller stools than normal. But when your kitty uses a toilet, you could miss symptoms that might indicate your pet has a health concern that needs to be addressed by a veterinarian. Even though cleaning the litter can be an annoying chore, it is an opportunity to keep an eye on how your pet is doing. There are many conditions that could impact how often your cat eliminates, as well as how much waste is produced. Using a box can make it a lot easier to keep track of things. Jumping and Balancing Might Be Hard, Especially for Older CatsFinally, as mentioned above, balancing on a toilet seat can be tough for a kitty, even if they’re young and strong. It can be even more challenging for a cat who’s older or has mobility issues or injuries. Your pet might get to the point that they simply can’t use the toilet anymore, resulting in them eliminating elsewhere. It’s ultimately up to you, the pet parent, to decide if you want to toilet train your cat, but be sure to weigh all of the pros and cons to make a choice that’s best for you and your kitty. And, remember, when in doubt, you could always ask a vet for guidance.

10 Bizarre Animal Friendships That’ll Make You Mushy

1. Dog and Elephant

2. Ostrich and Giraffe

3. Duck and Dog

4. Cat and Fox

5. Birds and Dog

6. Chicken and Puppies

7. Cat and Bearded Dragon

8. Dog and Lion

9. Owl and Dog

Lion and tiger and bear

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Pets Wanted: PetSmart Hiring Furry Chief Toy Testers

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Pets Wanted: PetSmart Hiring Furry Chief Toy Testers

10 Bizarre Animal Friendships That’ll Make You Mushy

1. Dog and Elephant

2. Ostrich and Giraffe

3. Duck and Dog

4. Cat and Fox

5. Birds and Dog

6. Chicken and Puppies

7. Cat and Bearded Dragon

8. Dog and Lion

9. Owl and Dog

Lion and tiger and bear

Popular Pet Guide

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