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How to Socialize Your Rabbit

At a first glance, rabbits might seem like fairytale pets – so cute, fluffy, and affectionate, you just want to snuggle them all day long. Of course, they can be all that, but not without a bit of diligent work on your part. Just like any other pet, rabbits too require proper socialization in order to discover their best and most affectionate traits. Skip this important step in their upbringing, and they can grow up to be quite like their wild counterparts – difficult to handle, mischievous, grumpy, and completely uninterested in interaction with you. A rabbit that has not been socialized will shun its owner, avoid handling, lash out and bite (yes, bunnies can bite too!), avoid enclosures, become difficult to potty train, and avoid other bunnies and pets. Needless to say, this won’t be enjoyable, neither for you nor for your pet.It is important to remember that socialization should be started from an early age. You should not wait too long to begin spending quality time with your fluffy little pet. As soon as they are stable and healthy, and have passed the fragile baby period, you should begin socialization. One of the easiest ways to socialize with your rabbit is to spend some one-on-one time with them. Start small, and don’t try to handle them from the get-go – let them get used to your presence at first. Don’t hesitate to get all the way down to the floor, to meet your rabbit’s eye level. This is where the rabbits feel safest, so they will be more open to connecting with you. In time, you can begin handling them, easy at first and then more freely later. Just be careful to do it properly, so as not to hurt the delicate bunny. Always take things slow with a rabbit. Sudden moves and unexpected actions can easily frighten them, and cause unwanted stress. Take slow and measured movements and arm yourself with patience. As time passes and your rabbit gets to know you, they will be much more welcoming to you and your presence. Of course, you should definitely arm yourself with a lot of food and tasty treats. There is no easier way to connect with a pet than through food. So don’t be hesitant to reward any good behavior, response to your command, or just a good first step with a tasty treat. This will surely entice further success. Remember that spayed or neutered rabbits will socialize much better and more easily, and they will also accept handling much faster. In fact, rabbits that are not spayed or neutered will often straight out refuse handling. If you have completed this important step, you may try introducing a rabbit pair for your pet, as it can contribute to the socialization process. Of course, you should choose a pair for your rabbit very carefully. Consider all the options: whether the pair is male or female, socialized, or of the same age. If the differences are too great, the two rabbits might not pair well. In the end, with patient work and dedication, you should quickly cover all the necessary milestones in rabbit socialization. Make sure that you do these steps often – daily if possible – and always be patient and slow-paced. In no time your rabbit will show its affectionate and friendly face, and become the wonderful pet it can really be.

Beginner’s Guide to Properly Handling Rabbits

Rabbits can be such wonderful pets – they are affectionate, smart, and even goofy at times! These are just some of the reasons why so many people around the world choose them as their family pets. But before you commit to a rabbit pet, there are a few key things to know about. And the first and foremost is bunny handling. These are fragile and energetic creatures, and you want to know what is the best way to handle them easily and safely. It is all about the right approach and plenty of patience and care to ensure their safety at all times. Before you start, remember that you should not avoid handling rabbits. In fact, when done properly, handling your bunny can only enrich your bond. This is because rabbits are naturally social and affectionate creatures, especially when they are spayed and neutered. By handling them often and with gentleness and care, you will build a strong relationship with your pet and the affectionate nature of your bunny pet will quickly come to the forefront. However, it is crucial that you approach handling them with great care, because if you don't, you can either scare your bunny and damage your relationship, or even worse, inadvertently hurt them.The Sooner You Start, the BetterThe first thing to keep in mind is that you should start handling your bunny early on. Introducing your bunny to handling and human touch as early as possible will get them used to it much faster than if you wait until you try to pick them up. At this point, it is important to remember that, in nature, rabbits are prey for many predators. This means that they will have defensive instincts, and be naturally timid and fearful as a result. If you try to initiate physical contact abruptly, they can see it as a threat, and try to jump out of your hands, run away from you, or simply get too scared to get close to you again. Those first contacts are important, so be gentle, talk in a gentle and hushed voice, and take things slowly. Make no sudden movements! Don’t start handling in a chaotic or restless environment - peace and quiet can help relax your rabbit pet.Be Gentle And CarefulAs you start handling your rabbit, always keep in mind the fact that they can be quite fragile. Their little bones and bodies are delicate at best – so no squishing, strong grips, and holding them against their will. If a bunny is desperate to get out of your grip, they can end up hurting themselves from the sheer effort. Even worse, they can jump out of your hands and injure themselves from the fall, so take your time and be patient with them. It is best to get down low as you pick up a rabbit. Being closer to their level is less likely to scare them, and it also prevents you from dropping them from a height. Once you’re down closer to a safe height, remember to be slow and careful. Next, try picking them up: one hand should go underneath the bunny, across their chest, while the other should go beneath their backside. Once you are holding them with both hands, you can slowly place them against your body. Feeling your warmth and gentleness, and your soft words can help them feel secure.It should be obvious, but never pick your rabbit in any other way than this – don’t hold them on their backs, tug on their ears, or hoist them by their legs. All this is very dangerous and potentially fatal for a little rabbit. What To Do If Your Rabbit Doesn’t Want to Be HeldSome bunnies, due to their high prey instincts, simply won’t enjoy getting handled. Others will accept it, and some only after a while. So take your time, and gradually lengthen the time you’re cradling the bunny. After a while, they will get used to you and become comfortable as well. As you are holding your pet rabbit, remember to show them affection. Slowly “groom” them by petting their head gently, around the eyes, on the ears, and on top of their nose. This imitates natural behavior between rabbits. Also follow the signs your rabbit gives you: some enjoy getting pets on the head, and others love getting back and butt scratches. If you take all these necessary steps and be patient and gentle, you and your rabbit will quickly establish an affectionate relationship that can last for many long years!

Heroic Dog Sniffs Out Electronic Evidence Against Suspected Pedophile

We’ve always known that a dog’s olfactory system is pretty downright impressive. And we know that dogs are known for being able to sniff out everything from truffles to COVID-19 to cancer.But according to the Associated Press, a dog named Hidu is a hero because he was able to sniff out electronic evidence needed to prosecute a suspected pedophile who’d been hiding out in Mexico City. A Netherlands-based group that fights human trafficking—Free A Girl—warned the U.S.-based group Operation Underground Railroad (OUR) that a Dutch man who had pedophilia cases against him in the Netherlands fled to Mexico City. The man had openly supported sexual activity with children.OUR and other activist groups joined with Mexican prosecutors and an incredible furry detective Hidu to look for the suspect. Hidu was trained by Jordan Detection K9 Academy to sniff out electronic memory devices. The team used social media and chat rooms to entice the suspect into a trap that confirmed he was in Mexico. Matt Osborne is the director of Global Operations for OUR. The suspect told Osborne’s team that he was in a dangerous area and didn’t want to give his address but suggested they meet at a gas station. So, in early June, Mexico City prosecutors met the man at the gas station and put him in prison for charges of drug and weapons possession on top of human trafficking. The team found the apartment he’d been hiding out in and then OUR brought Hidu in to sniff out triphenylphosphine oxide. Also known as TPPO, it’s a chemical that’s used to coat electronic devices like flash drives or memory cards—things that carry lots of evidence but are often easily hidden and hard to find. They’re necessary for prosecution, though, as they’re the evidence of crimes perpetrated.Hidu had only finished training two weeks before, but he didn’t even flinch at finding the suspect’s devices—all loaded with evidence of child sexual abuse and trauma.Hidu found a phone hidden in a pile of dirty laundry, as well as more electronic evidence that had been taped behind a painting hung on the wall. Osborne said that those hiding spaces the hard drives were found in were difficult for a human to find, but Hidu had no problem sniffing them out. Because of Hidu’s heroism and olfactory talents, the prosecution team was able to collect four terabytes of evidence of child sexual abuse.As the world moves more and more into electronic dependence, dogs like Hidu will become more important in the fight to protect humans, and particularly children. Todd Jordan is the owner of Jordan Detection K9 Academy, and he says that electronic dogs are now more in need because of the way the world is, and he believes every internet crime task force should have a dog like Hidu.We agree. Well done, Hidu. You’re a very good boy!Image: Operation Underground Railroad

Nail Clipping Versus Grinding – Which is Best and How Do You Choose?

In fact, your dog’s nails should be trimmed every three to four weeks. Not only because it looks better and you eliminate that annoying clickety-clack every time he scampers across the floor, but because those overgrown, talon-shaped nails can become uncomfortable to walk on and lead to health issues down the line. The repetitive pressure put on your dog’s foot every time that too-long nail hits the ground can actually injure tendons over time and cause his feet to deform and splay. So, let’s talk about how best to complete mani-pedis on a reluctant pooch.And we’ll start with the tools.For those who feel ready to complete this task at home, you’ll need to know about the quick. It’s a nerve that extends from the root of the nail to the tip and yes, it hurts if you nick it. The upside is that the quick recedes with the length of the nail and that means that over time it will shorten and you can clip his nails without worry that you’re causing your pet pain (or bleeding).When it comes to which tool to use, there are a few options. For smaller dogs with tiny nails, a standard toe-nail clipper may be sufficient. Just make sure you’re able to cut in a clean, single stroke for a non-ragged edge. Remember, your pup likes to scratch his ears and face from time to time and jagged tips can cause injury.For any larger breed, you’re going to want to invest in a quality set of nail clippers. Designed specifically for the task at hand, they deliver quick, precise results. And let’s face it, when you’re dealing with an uncooperative pooch, that’s exactly what you want. They come in a few different designs including a “guillotine” style of clipper that requires you simply insert the tip of your pet’s nail and squeeze the handle for a single clean cut. Then there’s the scissor-style clipper that works just like the name implies. It’s better suited to large breeds with large, thick nails that require a little extra force.And then there are grinders. Consider this gadget to be both a finishing tool that can be used after clipping to eliminate any ragged edges as well as a maintenance tool that can be used every 7 to ten days to maintain the shorter length. It comes in both a cordless design that works off batteries or can be charged, as well as an electric model that plugs into any standard outlet.So, between nail clippers and grinders, which tool is best? Let’s take a look at the advantages (and disadvantages) of both.Related: Best Dog Nail ClippersNail Clippers- Quick – Unlike grinders, clippers don’t require charging, plugging in, or batteries. This makes them easy to use anywhere and anytime a quick nail trim is required.- Precise – Specifically designed for the shape and thickness of a dog’s nail, both guillotine and scissor-style clippers are fast, accurate, and dust/smell-free.- Quiet – Particularly for dogs that are easily spooked and anxious around noise, nail clippers are quiet, easy to use and work without vibration.- One-Cut – Quality nail clippers allow you to make nice clean cuts in single snips. No need to revisit incomplete cuts, no ragged edges and no prolonging the process.- Strong – Today’s nail clipper is designed to tackle large, thick dog nails quickly and easily.The downside of nail clippers is that for any dog that has a black or dark colored nail, you’re guesstimating as to where the quick ends. It may take some practice to get it right and, in the meantime, painful clips can mean Rover is going to struggle and become highly reluctant to engage in this grooming exercise again.Related: Best Dog Nail GrindersNail Grinders- Smooth – Grinders are great for cleaning up the rough edges that can be left after your dog’s nails have been clipped.- Maintenance – Once your pet’s nails have been cut, it’s easy for you to maintain that optimal length by simply grinding them back every 7 to 10 days.- Safer – Because it’s a more gradual process, grinding your dog’s nails means it’s easier to gauge how close you’re getting to the quick. So, you can stop sooner and prevent painful nicks.- Clean-Ups – Active dogs are prone to developing ragged nail edges that can result in inadvertent injury or infection when they scratch themselves. A quick clean-up eliminates this danger.- Gentle – Not all dogs appreciate having their feet touched, so any style of nail trimming will be met with dread. But with grinding, the slower, less abrupt process can offer an opportunity to interact with your pet, provide soothing words and even offer treats. While the ease and convenience of today’s cordless nail grinders may imply it’s the perfect alternative to clipping, the challenge for your pet is the noise, dust, and vibrating sensation each time you begin the grinding process. And this tool also requires practice, because the rotating sander can heat up, snag fur and connect with tender pads.ConclusionMy two rescue pooches had nails that would rival a bald eagle. Seriously, they were talons, not nails and it’s taken a couple of years to get them down to an appropriate length. Apparently, this is common with rescue dogs because, quite frankly, nails seem to take a backseat to other, more obvious health issues. For me, groomers who were too aggressive had my gals anxious and piddling on the floor when we returned for future grooming. Others chose not to deal with my anxious dogs and left their uber-long nails intact – which exacerbated the nail trim situation. For now, we’ve reached a happy solution which is to have them clipped during grooming and ground every two weeks in between. If you’re still sitting on the proverbial fence about whether your pet’s nails need clipping, grinding, both or neither, consider the health risks and the discomfort it causes your pet when overly long nails compromise his enjoyment of his daily walks. A quick rule of thumb is that nails should not quite touch the floor when your dog is in a seated position. But if you can hear your dog walking toward you from 50 paces, it’s time to tackle those nails.

Adoptable Dog of the Week - Khan

What a stunner! Our Adoptable Dog of the Week is Khan, a 2 years old Plott Hound mix from Warwick, Rhode Island. He is neutered, current on his vaccines, housetrained, crate trained, and has gone through basic obedience training. Khan is a sweet pooch that gets along with other dogs, is loved by kids, and he’s even friendly to cats.Khan’s TaleIf you want a sweet, energetic, smart boy to be your four-legged companion, you’re in luck! Khan fits the bill perfectly. He’ll be more than happy to be your sidekick on every adventure, whether it’s hiking scenic routes or exploring nature as he’s very active and loves to be on the move, but he’ll also appreciate some quality snuggles and lazy time after you’re back home. You’ll never be bored or feel lonely with Khan by your side! In addition to having a lovely personality, Khan is one smart cookie: he’s already housetrained, crate trained, and knows basic commands. He could learn so much more with the right people to guide him! Khan is great on leash and off the leash, and does great in cars. He’s very friendly and loveable, so he wouldn't mind sharing his new home and family with another pet – he gets along with other dogs his size, doesn’t mind hanging out with cats, and loves playing with children. Keep in mind, though, that Khan weighs around 60 pounds and is very energetic – so it’s best that the children in the home are older, as he might inadvertently knock down a younger kid during play.If you’ve fallen head over heels for this brindle beauty (and who wouldn't?), contact Rhode Home Rescue to learn more about him and the adoption process. Fingers crossed that you’re the one that gets to bring this lovely boy home!

How to Train Your Cat to Sit in a Stroller

But before you buy a stroller for cats, consider that your frisky feline might not be too keen on the idea—at least not at first. It may take some time to train your kitty and get her comfortable with being inside a stroller.Start Inside the HouseAfter buying a pet stroller, it isn’t a good idea to immediately put your kitty in it and go outside. Instead, set it up and let your cat inspect it, but don’t force her to spend a lot of time in it. Instead, let her decide when she’s had enough. To entice your cat to stay in the stroller, you could use treats, catnip, and toys. Be there while she’s in the stroller so you can pet her, give her some food, and tell her how good she is. That way, she can start to see it as a safe and happy place. Then, take additional steps to prepare for going outside. For example, get your cat accustomed to wearing her harness little by little, especially if she’s never worn one. And get her used to having the top of the stroller closed around her—you might close it for mere seconds the first few times, depending on how she reacts. The next step is to start moving the stroller around the house. The motion might be jarring for your kitty at the beginning, so be patient and consistent. Take It OutsideIt might take days or even weeks for your cat to feel totally at ease in an enclosed, moving stroller. Once that happens, you can start taking her outside. It’s best to go slow again, as this will be a new experience. Calming pheromone sprays, treats, and plenty of reassurance may help at this stage of the training process as well. Stay close to home, such as by only going into your backyard. A few minutes might be all that she’ll tolerate at first. Do this often and consistently, keeping an eye on your pet’s reaction every time. When both you and your cat are ready, you can take it to the next level by going for short walks near your home. If you live near a park, you might even walk there and sit for a while as your cat takes in the surroundings. Take Your Time and Consider Your Cat’s PreferencesAlthough you might really want to take your cat for a walk in a stroller, the truth is not all kitties will enjoy the experience. If you find that your pet just isn’t having a good time, and no amount of training is making a difference in how she feels, it may be best to let go of the idea of taking her outside. Or, there might be other things you can try, such as using a catio to give her the opportunity to spend time outdoors safely. Ultimately, it’s all about working with your unique kitty so you and your pet can be happy.

Scare The Poop Out of Us Halloween Dog Costume Contest

BOO! We love Halloween – the candy, the costumes, the parties, the roaming gangs of brain-hungry zombies… And because we love Halloween so much, we want to see your dog donned in his or her costume drag! Get your dogs dressed up, your cameras out and email us your picture during our Halloween Costume Contest!Just email a picture of your scary cute dog in costume to photos@petguide.com and you’ll be entered. Or send it or post it to our Facebook page. All of the photos sent to us will be featured on our Facebook page.What Do I Do?: Email photos@petguide.com with 1 (ONE) photo that you own of your pet dressed up in costume. The photo can be a current or one that was taken in the past. You agree that we can post the photo on our social media accounts and in conjunction with news about the contest. Send the photo to photos@petguide.com with the subject line HALLOWEEN CONTEST. Please include your name, location, and dog’s name, plus a little story about the picture, if you have one. Only one entry per person. If you submit more than one photo for the contest, we will only consider the FIRST photo you submitted. If you have more than one dog, you are welcome to gather them together in their costumes and submit ONE picture of them together.How Do I Win?: 4 (Four) Winners selected by our panel of three judges, based on theme, photo clarity, and smile-factor.Where Can I See My Photo?: All of the photos can be seen on our Facebook page. We’ll feature the winner on a dedicated post on PetGuide.com.

Best Rabbits for Seniors

Sharing your golden years with a pet is so rewarding: you have someone to care for, a companion to spend time with, and a sweet, affectionate friend to shower you with love. You might be wondering which pet is the best for seniors – a cat, a dog, or maybe a small animal? Rabbits make a wonderful choice for seniors, for many reasons. They are fairly easy to care for, they are not high maintenance in terms of activity and energy levels, and will fit in great with a slower pace of life that most seniors have. If you’re looking for a pet rabbit to keep you company in your retirement days, or you want to surprise a senior loved one with a fluffy companion, read on – here are the 10 best rabbits for seniors.

Adoptable Dog of the Week- Lollie

If you want to share your life with a happy, silly, goofy girl that always has a smile on her face, this is the pooch for you! Our Adoptable Dog of the Week is Lollie, a little over 2.5 years old American Pitbull Terrier Mix from Dayton, Ohio. She is spayed and will be microchipped and up to date on her vaccines prior to her adoption. Lollie is a sweet, easygoing girl that gets along with almost anybody, but it’s best if she meets any pets she’d share her new home with before adoption.Lollie’s TaleThrough no fault of her own, Lollie’s one of the longest residents in the shelter – and no one knows why, as she’s a lovely dog with a wonderful personality. She was confiscated from a bad situation with multiple other dogs, but her past hasn’t left a mark on her character. Lollie’s a happy-go-lucky dog with a positive attitude and all she wants is to be snuggled all day long. She’s carefree, loving, and will make someone really happy – she will give you lots of kisses and tail wags in return for cuddles!Lollie is currently going through training classes where she is working hard and picking up new skills to flaunt at her new home, and since she’s eager to please, she’s doing great. Since she hasn't had a chance to spend time around other pets and children while in the shelter, it’s best to contact the shelter for more information if you have kids or another dog/cat in the home, so you could arrange a meet and see how everyone gets along. If you want a dog to make you smile every day and give you lots of love and affection, contact the Humane Society of Greater Dayton to learn more about Lollie and how you can adopt her.

Soft Peanut Butter Carrot Dog Treat Recipe

If you’ve got a senior dog or a small dog with bad teeth, giving your dog a treat can be a problem. If you want to reward any dog for a job well done, give the Soft Peanut Butter Carrot Dog Treat Recipe a try. These homemade dog treats feature a whole lot of peanut butter – what dog can resist that? For a bit of a healthy boost, we’ve added carrot into the mix, which is high in fiber and beta-carotene.Ingredients:2 1/4 cups whole wheat flour1 cup peanut butter1 large carrot, shredded3/4 cup almond milk1 egg1 tablespoon baking powder1/3 cup oatsDirections:1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.2. In a large bowl, mix the peanut butter, milk, egg, and carrot together. Add the flour and baking powder. Mix in the oats. 3. Using a floured rolling pin, roll the dough out into 1/4″ thickness. Cut into shapes using cookie cutters. Place cookies on baking sheets. 4. Place in oven and bake for 20 minutes. 5. Remove from oven and allow to cool completely. 6. Store treats in airtight bags or containers and keep in refrigerator or freezer.

How to Train Your Pet to Be a Visiting Therapy Dog

So, you think your gentle, people-loving pooch would be a great fit as a nursing home Therapy dog? Let’s start by saying congratulations on exploring this option. Pet visitation programs have become popular across the globe because of their proven ability to enhance the quality of life and help improve the health of seniors including those suffering from depression, dementia and Alzheimer’s disease.And while you may be right about your little buddy being an ideal candidate for this type of work, there’s more to it than simply a winning disposition and disarming grin.Breeds that QualifyWonder which breeds qualify? The short answer is that all breeds qualify however due to potential liability issues, each dog requires a certain level of certification before he gets to share the love. And because what this certification actually looks like can vary from state to state, province to province and even between the various retirement communities, you’ll want to start with the basic accreditations.Let’s Get StartedThe American Kennel Club (AKC) and the Canadian Kennel Club (CKC) offer behavioral certifications called the Canine Good Citizen (AKC) and the Canine Good Neighbor (CKC). Both programs include a series of tests that your pooch must perform and pass in front of a live evaluator.Each club’s testing system requires among other things, that your dog to be friendly with strangers, that he come when called, sit and stay on command, be receptive to patting and have a clean, well-groomed appearance. The TestsThe requirements below, are pulled from both the AKC and CKC testing requirements. For each objective, we share training tips on how to get your pooch up to speed and ready for his final evaluation. That evaluation takes no more than 10 to 15 minutes and is conducted by accredited, dog-friendly folk who are located throughout North America and are both supportive and rooting for your best buddy to claim his title.1. Willing to accept the approach of a friendly stranger reaching out to shake hands with you.Socialization is key here and if your pet wasn’t introduced to new sights, sounds, and faces when he was a fearless little pup, he’ll likely feel anxious when taken out of his comfort zone as an adult. Your goal is to build his confidence and lessen his fears by providing him with gradual, controlled exposure to new situations. Plan to:· Bring him to a dog park and remain within sight in case he feels crowded or overwhelmed by other dogs.· Introduce him to new faces – both adults and children. Progress can be measured in his reaction to these new situations. Is he comfortable when strangers approach – meaning he doesn’t growl, bark, lunge, or hide behind you?· As he progresses, consider dropping him at a doggie daycare center from time to time. This allows him to mix with new faces in a supervised situation where you’re not present. And staff are great at sharing report cards on just how well your dog integrated with others and if there were any hot buttons.2. Sit politely and accept being patted over a period of time without shying away or showing wariness. Meeting this requirement relies heavily on how well socialized your dog is. If he’s passed the meet and greet phase with flying colors, it’s time to introduce him to the sensation of being patted and touched by strangers. Start with people you know but who your dog may not be as familiar with. He should be able to sit, stay and accept the pat without mouthing, pulling back or feeling threatened (treats help keep your pooch on point).This needs to happen in a controlled manner, one person at a time, and with them instantly withdrawing if your pet becomes anxious. His comfort level with being touched and cuddled by strangers will grow with continued exposure. It’s not a process you can rush and is a step that is critically important to how well he will perform as a therapy dog.3. Be responsive when taken for a short walk including completing, left, right and about-turns as well as stopping. One of the five basic commands, “heel” can be a tricky one to master when your dog is excitedly tugging and pulling in an effort to get the walk started. Because this is an important discipline for a Therapy dog, clicker training might be the way to go. And it’s a fairly simple process. Call your dog to come to you as you start to walk (the standard heel position is on your left side). When he arrives, say “good boy/girl” while at the same time clicking the clicker and offering up that all-important treat.Practice this a few times until your pet has the hang of it. Then eliminate the verbal command and simply use the clicker to draw your dog over to you and into position. Once the task has been completed successfully, mix it up by changing your pace or direction to require your dog to regain his heel position and adapt his stride.4. Be comfortable moving through a crowd of strangers without jumping up.Here’s another requirement that relies on your pet being fully socialized and capable of interacting with strangers, minus fear, aggression, or over-exuberance. And it’s an important skill for Therapy dogs who may need to move through crowded nursing homes or hospitals while remaining calm and focused. Start with taking him on short, leashed walks of no more than five to 10 minutes through a crowd where he can still see ahead and to the sides. Offer plenty of verbal praise (with treats) as he remains focused on the walk and non-reactive to the outside stimulation.Over time, your pet will change his association with crowds and strangers from a fearful experience to one loaded with encouragement and treats. Gradually extend the length of your walks to help reinforce the positive/non-threatening nature of these situations.5. Sit and stay on command, then remain in the stay position when you walk away before returning.The American Kennel Club emphasizes the need for a start and finish to the Stay command. Choose a word to be used exclusively to release your pet from the Stay position. It could be “over” or “OK” or “free” - you pick. Now, because it should be strictly for releasing your pet from his Stay, avoid choosing his name, “come”, or any other command word that might confuse when used later.When your pet has assumed a Sit or Down position, use the Stay command. Within a few seconds, use the release word and issue a treat. If he remains in his Stay position, encourage him to get up and come toward you.6. Sit, stay, and then come when called from a 30-foot distance.Once the Stay/Release command is mastered you’re ready to move on to the three Ds: Duration, Distance and Distractions.Duration is how long your dog remains in a stay position, Distance is how far you move away from your pet, and Distractions are all that stuff that can happen around him while he’s patiently waiting in the Stay position. All can be trained and controlled.· To build on Duration, issue the Stay command, count to three, then issue the release word with a treat. Repeat the process, increasing each interval by a few seconds. If he releases early, repeat the Sit/Stay commands and begin again.· Distance training takes longer and requires a little more patience. Deliver the Sit/Stay commands, then take one step back from your dog while he remains in the Stay position. Pause, then step back toward him and deliver the treat if he’s remained in place. Next, take two steps back, then forward to your dog. Repeat the process, adding an extra step each time.· It’s important to have mastered the Distance and Duration commands before adding Distractions. Noise, a squirrel, anything can draw your dog’s attention away from the task at hand. To de-sensitize your pet, add small distractions in a controlled environment such as your backyard. Increase the number and level of distractions, then move to a different environment and repeat. And up the game as it relates to treats. AKC recommends “higher value” options for this one.Want a handy training tip? Always hold treats up at chest level to prevent luring (dog just following the food versus the command).When your training is complete and your pet has received his Canine Good Citizen or Canine Good Neighbor certification, you’ll want to align yourself with an established Therapy dog program that can identify those facilities that are in need of this service. In the United States, the AKC website has a list of Therapy dog organizations including the Alliance of Therapy Dogs and Therapy Dogs International. In Canada, organizations such as St. John’s Ambulance are good places to start once you feel your dog is ready to start spreading the love.

Adoptable Dog of the Week - Lupi

Cute as a button and sweet as they come, this handsome fella is looking for someone to love him forever! Our Adoptable Dog of the Week is Lupi, a 2 years old Spaniel mix from Marina del Rey, California. He is neutered, up to date with his vaccinations, housetrained, and crate trained. Lupi is a friendly pooch that gets along with other dogs but hasn’t had a chance to be tested around other dogs. Lupi’s TaleUnique-looking and with a lovely personality, Lupi will make someone a perfect companion. He is very smart and eager to please, so he is already house trained and crate trained, and is working on his manners when walking on a leash. Luckily, he’s a fast learner and would do anything for praise and treats, so he’ll master this skill in no time, too! Sweet and affectionate, Lupi loves spending quality time with people close to him. He’ll adore the attention, petting, and cuddles with his special human – he thrives on affection and will shower you with love in return. Lupi will return your love tenfold! If you want a laid-back, pleasant pooch with good manners, he’s your guy for sure.Lupi is definitely curious about other canines and gets along just fine with other dogs, but he’s not overly enthusiastic about dogs that are too playful and energetic. A doggie sibling with a similar, calm, and laid-back personality would be the perfect fit, but Lupi would also do perfectly fine as the only pet in the family. He’s small at 17 lbs and would do equally well in an apartment or in a home with a backyard. Lupi hasn’t been tested around cats and kids, so if you have a pet cat or children in the family, be sure to inquire about a potential meet and greet.If you're interested in learning more about Lupi or the adoption process, contact Forte Animal Rescue for more information.

Ask the Animal Communicator: Litterbox Laments

Dear Shannon, Lately my 7-year-old male soul cat, Alex, has been peeing outside the litter box. I’m what you might call a crazy cat lady for life – suffice it to say I know about cats. So I’ve tried all the remedies I know to do – a well cat veterinary exam, a litter box deep clean, change in kitty litter, deterrent spray, pheromones, more play time, more treats – I’ve even added a second litter box just in case Alex wants more options! Still with the pee, though. I’m at my wit’s end. Is he lonely? Would getting a second cat help? Thanks, Sophie, aka No Cat Pee for Me Shannon’s reply: Hi Sophie, Oh I hear you! Truly I do. The first thing I want to say to you is THANK YOU. You clearly care about Alex deeply and are willing to stretch out of your comfort zone to hear what your precious soul cat is trying to tell you. As an animal communicator, I live to talk to pet parents like you. The second thing I want to share is that when you are having trouble with one pet, the solution is rarely to get a second pet (kind of like when a human relationship is in trouble – adding a baby might mask the issue but it rarely solves it!). So let’s hold off on that for a bit, ok? And now let’s dig in a bit deeper. Of course, Alex can’t just walk up to you and say in human-speak, “Hey, Mom, here is what is really bugging me.” But as you’ve noticed, Alex can speak loudly using his pee! And it works, doesn’t it! You’ve noticed he really wants to tell you something. But what is it? Luckily, you’ve reached out to an animal communicator. What does that mean? I’m not a pet trainer, not an animal behaviorist – rather, I use a different set of language skills to communicate with all species. In this case, it means I can talk to pets using all of my senses and receive their replies in the same way. When I tuned in with Alex, my first impression is of a cat who is very proud, refined, dignified. As in, peeing outside the toilet really isn’t “him.” It isn’t like him to do this – and so no wonder you have been so beside yourself with worry. After getting to know Alex a bit more, I asked him if there is anything about the litter box situation in your home that he is dissatisfied with. He said, “It is just fine – Mom does a great job keeping everything clean for me. She even added a second litter box which is great. I don’t love the new litter but it is okay. My next question to Alex was to ask why he keeps peeing outside the litter box if there isn’t anything wrong with it. And here is where our conversation gets good. Alex showed me a mini-movie of you sitting at your desk at work. I see a woman in a suit walk in and dump a load of files on your desk. Then I see a man in a suit come in and dump more files on your desk. Each time it happens I feel more sadness coming from you and a feeling of being stuck doing work that isn’t yours to do. The message Alex relayed next had my jaw on the floor. “All these people at work keep peeing in Mom’s litter box and she thinks she can’t stop them from doing it but she can!” Even though I do this work every day, I never stop being amazed by how well our pets know us. But we are their whole world and so it is only natural they don’t miss a beat. Sophie, I hope this is helpful to you. Watch for a change in Alex’s toilet behavior. Typically, once our pets have gotten their message through to us, they will stop whatever the troublesome behavior is like it never even happened. Please keep in touch and let me know how it goes with you and Alex. From my heart,Shannon

5 Things You Should Never Feed to Your Horse

You might be surprised to know that horses are often mischievous and very inquisitive, and will want to take a nibble out of many things. It is one way to get acquainted with the world around them, but it also has to do with them simply being voracious. Still, they will depend on you for food, and it is your responsibility to feed them quality foods and quality foods only. Anything that is not confirmed safe for horses to eat can really harm them in the long run, so you should stick to the rules. But still, a reminder is always handy, so here is the list of five things you should never feed to your horse!1. MeatThis one might come off as too obvious, especially considering that horses are plant eaters – i.e herbivores. As this is natural to them, you should of course stick to a plant-based diet. Don’t get any funny ideas and offer horses meat or meat-based products, for whatever reason. Horses' teeth can’t really deal with sinewy and chewy meat, and their digestive systems can’t handle it either. So, even products that contain small amounts of meat should be avoided altogether. It can do more harm than good.2. Old hayLet’s say that food stocks are running low, so you reach for that old bunch of hay or roughage that has been standing in the corner for ages and feed it to your horse. Doing this would be a fatal mistake. Old hay that stood for far too long and became dusty, dirty, and moldy, can cause irreparable damage to your horse’s respiratory system, and their health. Remember that it is often your responsibility to provide quality foods, as horses will often gulp down on many things even if they are bad for their health. Long term exposure to moldy and stale hay can severely damage your horse’s health, so avoid it altogether. 3. ChocolateSome owners might think that chocolate can be a suitable sweet reward for a good horse. If you enjoy it, why can’t your horse, right? Wrong. Chocolate is bad for horses. Just like cats and dogs, and many other animals, chocolate is dangerous for horses. It contains theobromine, which can make most animals ill. In fact, cocoa in large doses can actually kill horses, and even a bit of chocolate is enough for the negative ingredients to enter their bloodstream. So, even a square off of a chocolate bar can be dangerous to a horse, so best avoid it – always. 4. Lawn mower clippingsSo you mowed the lawn, and you’re left with a bunch of grass clippings. They seem minced and fresh, and easy for a horse to eat. But offering this would be a mistake, and a potential health hazard – even though it is just grass. This bunched up cut grass can often contain unhealthy and potentially poisonous plants, as well as a larger concentration of harmful parasites. What is more, such conveniently “mushed” grass is super easy for a horse to gulp down, and they will eat large quantities – this causes colic and bloating, together with other discomforts. And if the grass has been sitting for just a day or two, it will quickly develop dangerous mold. It is best thrown away or used as compost for your garden rather than being horse food. 5. TomatoesFor us, these are delicious veggies, ideal in a salad or in a sandwich. But this is not the same for horses, for whom the tomato is very toxic. If you didn’t know, the tomato belongs to the family of plants called Solanaceae. This family also includes the Deadly Nightshade, a notoriously poisonous plant. In fact, tomatoes too contain toxic alkaloid elements like atropine, hyoscyamine, and solanine, all of which are part of that nightshade family. Even a single tomato can be dangerous to a horse, causing tomato poisoning whose symptoms are increased heart rate, diarrhea, constipation, and severe digestion issues. Avoid them at all costs. For a balanced horse's diet, you should stick to the classics, and follow the recommendations of your vet. Horses should be fed according to their weight, age, and levels of activity throughout the day. Trying to experiment with odd and unorthodox foods can really cause more harm than good.

Adoptable Dog of the Week - Nona

Sweet, goofy, and charming as they come, this little gal is looking to settle down with a furever family! Our Adoptable Dog of the Week is Nona, a 3 years old mixed-breed dog from Madison, Wisconsin. She is spayed, up to date on her vaccinations, microchipped, and dewormed. Nona gets along with other dogs and doesn’t seem to mind cats or little kids.Nona’s TaleThis adorable pooch weighs only 16 pounds, but she has a lot of spirit! At first, when she was rescued, she was a bit shy, but now, her personality shines – she is friendly. affectionate, silly, and playful. Nona loves getting pets and head rubs, but she also enjoys playing with all sorts of toys, especially those she can chase after. She’d love to have someone to take her on hikes where she could explore the great outdoors, but she’d be content with having a fenced-in backyard where she could continue with one of her favorite activities – chipmunk stake-outs.Nona was fostered with dogs of all shapes and sizes and has done great with all of them, so she wouldn't mind being adopted into a family that already has a dog. She was also OK with the cat she’d been around – as in didn’t show interest in her – so she could get along with a feline that doesn’t acknowledge her or wants to play. Children are also fine with Nona, as she liked any kid she had a chance to meet – as long as they are respectful and gentle with a dog.She is crate trained and her house training is going great, so you won’t have your hands full with Nona. If she sounds like the perfect dog for your family, contact Paddy's Paws rescue to learn more about her and the adoption process.

How to Train Your Dog to Leave the Cat Alone

Dogs and cats living peacefully under the same roof aren’t that unusual. And it’s not unreasonable to assume that if you introduce them gradually and raise them together, they will become lifelong buddies in time. So, what do you do when that new pooch is running poor Fifi ragged and you find yourself constantly playing referee in a furry game of war?Let’s start by not assuming things will eventually settle down on their own. It’s not fair to your cat and nobody wants a dog that continually chases down and harasses smaller animals, right?Getting StartedWhether your dog is new to the household, or your cat is the recent addition, it’s important they become familiar with each other’s scent and presence in a gradual, methodical manner. Separating them for the first few days allows each to get used to hearing and sensing another animal in the house - without having to come nose to nose with them.So, who gets locked away and who gets to roam the house? According to the American Kennel Club (AKC), whoever is being newly introduced to the home should be permitted to wander and become comfortable with the new environment. During this time, you could even share blankets and toys to allow them to pick up a more personal scent from their soon-to-be roommate.After the first day, consider placing their food bowls on opposite sides of a closed door. Feeding is a positive time in a pet’s day and allowing them to smell one another’s food and hear one another eating can help nudge the inevitable face-to-face, into becoming a more positive and less stressful experience.IntroductionsWhen it’s time for them to meet, never assume it will be as easy as simply opening the door and walking away. You’ll need to consider the personalities of both pets before you move forward with that all-important introduction. And if your cat tends to be territorial, she may come out fighting. A stressed-out feline can deliver dangerous, painful scratches that take those hard-won intros right back to square one - and possibly, you to the vet with your pup.Additionally, if your new dog is a breed that tends to have a high-prey drive - including terriers, hounds and herding breeds – plan to be heavily hands-on during this important stage.You know your pets best, so based on their known personalities, energy levels, breed characteristics, and territorial tendencies, we’re sharing a few different approaches to successfully introducing a new pet to the mix.1) If your dog or cat is already established in the home and you know them to be confident and likely territorial you may want to introduce a crate or carrier to the meet-and-greet process. After an initial two-day separation phase, bring them out and set them up in their carrier for 20 to 30 minutes. Include a few favorite treats and let the new pet wander around. This will give each of them that all-important first visual of the new addition without the opportunity to attack or chase. Again, just short sessions, several times a day with your already-established pet being moved back to their separate space in between intros. Eventually open the carrier door to allow them to exit if they so choose - and particularly for cats, only if she’s no longer showing signs of aggression.For skittish cats that hide around strangers, an out-in-the-open introduction isn't going to be the right approach. Read on, for other options.2) For dogs that have mastered the basic commands, you may want to consider using a “sit”, “stay”, “lay down”, or “leave it” approach that allows both animals to roam freely, but ensures your dog will instantly halt if the cat becomes wary or stressed. This less-structured method will also require your feline to have a readily accessible “escape space” such as under a bed, on top of a counter or high up on a shelf, where she can feel safe if necessary. This is an ideal method for felines who tend to be cautious but curious. Again, it would be used following the initial two-day separation period and will require you to be present throughout, to carefully monitor the situation and reward your pooch with treats when he obeys and/or ignores the cat.If your dog is still working on his commands and you’re not convinced he’ll readily obey, consider leashing him while you work through this method of introduction.3) When dealing with a young, boisterous pup who could possibly harm a smaller or older feline even after the initial separation process, you may want to take a more proactive approach. Consider an interim step by using an open-air, basket-style muzzle while you train the benefits of leaving the cat alone. The muzzle is only to be used when training a more respectful behavior – not throughout the day as a safeguard for when you’re not around. Over time and as his command training completes, you shouldn’t need the muzzle at all. And to prevent your dog from associating the muzzle with punishment, always insert a tasty treat or two for him to discover and enjoy. 4) If you’ve never tried clicker training, it’s a highly effective way to get the attention of a distracted dog and get him to respond to commands. While typically used for the five basic commands of sit, stay, lay down, heel and leave it, a clicker can also direct your dog to leave the cat alone. As with all other introductory methods, you should allow a two or three-day period of separation with gradual sensory awareness that ensures the appearance of this new pet, doesn’t come as a surprise and result in a negative face-to-face. Once this has been completed and your pets are moving around within the same space, use clicker training to reward your dog each time you observe him notice the cat but leave her alone. This rewards-based training requires that you click and offer a treat, whenever your dog indicates that he’s noticed the cat.Whether he’s excited and whining or totally non-plussed, the goal is for your dog to associate the cat, with a treat. As a result, his inclination will change from chasing to looking toward you so he can get that reward he just earned for not chasing. Be consistent and expect to spend a week or more working on this method of introduction. 5) The success of this last method will depend entirely on how much your dog covets his toys. Some dogs live and breathe for a squeaky toy, frisbee or ball. For others (like mine), not so much. The goal of this style of introduction is to create a positive distraction that will have your pooch ignoring the cat and redirecting his focus toward his fun new toy. Following that important separation period and gradual introduction, interact with your dog and his new toy by playing a game with the cat nearby but not in the line of fire. Toss a ball, hide a plush toy behind your back – whatever it takes to engage his attention. If he notices the cat or becomes distracted by her, re-engage him with the toy (squeaky toys are great for grabbing his attention) and give him a treat for looking your way.Your pooch is now learning that having a fun time with you that includes a new toy and tasty treats is so much more interesting than pursuing the cat. Eventually, the novelty of chasing the cat will wear off.Calm, amiable introductions can be quick and painless or a drawn-out, seemingly never-ending work in progress. To successfully integrate your family of pets, you need to respect their triggers, watch for potential conflicts and anticipate spending days and weeks creating a stable, non-threatening environment for both. Remember, you’re not striving for world peace, just peace in your world.

My Dog Has Fat Lumps - Do They Mean My Pet is Overweight?

What is a Fat Lump?It’s actually called a lipoma and it’s not uncommon to find one or more in dogs (or humans, for that matter). In a nutshell, it’s a benign mass of fat cells that appear within the subcutaneous or inner layer of skin tissue. When pressed, you should feel it move around slightly. The good news is that these slow-growing masses are not painful for your pooch unless they start appearing in areas such as his armpit or shoulder blade, where they can rub as he walks or press against a harness.In rare instances, you may be dealing with what’s called an infiltrative lipoma where the lump begins to grow into your dog’s muscle and other tissues. These can lead to discomfort as they increase in size and may require surgical removal.Fat lump masses can appear suddenly and present on your pooch’s belly, back, legs or underarms. It’s also not uncommon for older dogs to have multiple fat lumps. And while certain breeds seem more predisposed to fat lumps including Labrador Retrievers, Cocker Spaniels, and Doberman Pinschers (to name a few) any breed or mixed breed can get them. While weight and hormones do appear to be contributing factors, certain environmental factors have also been named as potential culprits.What Causes a Fat Lump?Older dogs are more inclined to have fat lumps and while the reason for this may simply be down to a drop in activity levels with a resultant weight gain, research is starting to suggest there could be other culprits at play. These include:· Direct sun-to-skin exposure (an issue for breeds with thin, single coats)· Genetics (hence the breed-specific reference)· Chemical exposure (see more below)With chemical exposure it’s your pet’s endocrine and immune systems being impacted. What these systems do is gather any unwanted or unhealthy materials in the body and attempt to excrete them out through the largest organ in the body – the skin surface. What’s being suggested is that these fat lumps are in fact, your pet’s body trying to sluff off stuff it can’t process.What sort of “stuff” you might ask? Well, let’s take a look at where some of this “unhealthy” material may come from. Drugs: while it’s important to have your pet treated for rabies, Bordetella, fleas, ticks and other harmful and potentially life-threatening conditions, try to avoid having your pet over-exposed to unnecessary drugs and chemicals.Diet: today’s processed foods are loaded with artificial flavors, colors, preservatives and carbs that haven’t traditionally been part of an animal’s diet. When his body doesn’t recognize how to process these additives, it stores them as fat lumps. Chemicals: our lives are filled with chemicals. From paint, furnishings and carpets with high VOCs to walking across a lawn that’s been treated with pesticides. Your dog absorbs all of these chemicals by breathing them in or absorbing them through their pads.Diagnosis and TreatmentFat lumps are typically confirmed through a fine needle aspiration that allows your vet to check the cells and make a final diagnosis. While they can be removed surgically, this type of invasive treatment may not be recommended based on the age or health of your pet.While they don’t spread in the same manner as cancer, other lumps can appear in other locations on your pet. So, unless it’s causing him discomfort – such as rubbing against a harness or making it difficult to walk – the best treatment can often be to leave it alone.Note that they don’t go away but can shrink if your pet loses weight. The growth rate is slow however as with any mass, it makes sense to monitor it every few months for a change in shape or size that might suggest it’s becoming problematic.And before you assume that what you’re dealing with is simply a fat lump, have your veterinarian check it out to ensure it’s not an abscess that requires immediate treatment.

How The Right Food Can Help Your Dog’s Sensitive Skin and Stomach

Quality, specialized nutrition can help promote your pet's healthy skin and coat, as well as support their stool regularity, gut health, and overall digestion. And right now, you can get Hill’s Science Diet featured products for up to 15% off.How To Support Your Dog's Sensitive Stomach and Skin Health

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