Cesar Millan Reads to Your Dog While You’re Out, Thanks to Audible

Are Rabbits Good Pets for Children?

Over the years, rabbits have proven to be a popular choice as pets, for families of all shapes and sizes. They have many wonderful characteristics, certainly, but one has to wonder whether they are the perfect pet for young children in particular? While bunnies seem cuddly, fluffy, and cute – traits that are always attractive to kids – the harsh truth is that they might not be the perfect pet for every kid. There are several reasons why this is the case, and it is important to take a rational look at the rabbit as a pet for your child before you make any rash decisions.One of the most important facts that we need to consider is that rabbits simply require plenty of work and understanding, and a lot of responsible, adult care and supervision. In a family setting, when adults are always near and invested in the bunny’s wellbeing, they can be wonderful pets. But once this is not the case, trouble can soon arise. It should not come as a surprise to know that rabbits are rather skittish and easily frightened, especially if we consider that they are natural prey animals in the wild. Some of that reserved instinct survives in their life as pets as well. They can respond adversely to being handled and cuddled, especially in a carefree manner as young children are known to do. If frightened by sudden moves and stressed, they might lash out and take a bite at your kid. And you might not think so, but a rabbit's bite can be quite serious.This can be an even greater possibility if your rabbit is not properly socialized and used to handling from a young age. Of course, stress that ensues from such situations can cause bigger health problems for rabbits. With all that being said, it should be obvious that rabbits can be demanding as pets to some people – from diet to grooming, and all the way to handling. A young child wouldn’t be suited for a bunny-caretaker role, especially without proper adult supervision. On the other hand, a teenager with a greater sense of responsibility could care for a rabbit in a much better way. Of course, the best environment for a pet rabbit is a loving home where every member of the household would provide ample care.If you are thinking of getting a rabbit pet for your child simply because you think they are soft and cuddly and an ideal “kid’s pet”, you should think twice. Children, especially at a young age, can have a tendency to quickly get “bored” with their new pet, leaving it somewhat deprived of attention and affection. This means that you will be left with a pet that is potentially neglected, and that would require a lot of your daily care. If you are not prepared for something like that, it might be best to choose a different pet that is easier to care for. In the end, the simple truth is that rabbits are challenging pets with a lot of complex needs – contrary to the popular belief – and that adopting one is a big commitment. Be sure you are ready to make one before acting on an impulse!

Cherry Pumpkin Dog Treat Recipe

We’re all busy. But as pet parents, we want to make sure that everything that our dogs put in their mouths are good for them. That’s why we love this Cherry Pumpkin Dog Treat Recipe. With only four ingredients, these treats only take 15 minutes to bake. That means that your dog will have them in their mouth in no time flat!Ingredients:1 cup whole wheat flour1/2 cup pitted and chopped tart or sweet cherries1/2 cup pumpkin puree1 teaspoon cinnamonDirections:1. Preheat oven to 350° F and line baking sheet with parchment paper.2. In a large bowl, mix all ingredients until well combined.3. Once dough is well mixed, place on floured surface and roll dough to ¼ inch thickness. Cut using cookie cutters and place cut outs onto baking sheet. 4. Place in oven and bake for 15 minutes.5. Remove from oven and place on wire racks to cool for 1-2 hours.6. Store in an air-tight container and keep in refrigerator or freezer.

5 Easy Tips to Discourage Cats From Jumping on Counters

That is until Pumpkin arrived.At over 20 pounds, this feline is, as his name implies, a big boy. And you’d be right to assume that he doesn’t miss a meal. This on its own may be why he’s so keen to monitor the food prep process in an up-close and personal manner. He may also have noticed that his favorite treats and those tins of wet food are stored in an upper cupboard. Or that fresh, cold water is fun and easy to access from a dripping tap.Whatever the draw, this large, surprisingly agile cat is up in the blink of an eye and calmly strolling by the microwave without so much as a grunt.What to do? When it comes to curtailing our curious cats, we need to take a look at not only how we can stop them but also at why they’re doing it in the first place. Because let’s face it, if you don’t eliminate the draw and discourage future jumping, you’ll never know what goes down the moment you lock that front door and head off to work. And while we love our uber-clean kitties, their paws can carry any level of germs and bacteria due to using their litter boxes, walking through gardens, across floors and even nursing an injured paw that might be infected.So, if we can all agree that counters aren’t the place for our feline friends, let’s look at some of the potential reasons your cat may feel differently:1) Do you conduct a thorough clean-up after meal prep? Be honest. Do you ever leave the juices from meat, fowl or fish on a platter after you’ve put the leftovers away? Or dirty dishes in the sink to “soak” overnight?2) Does your counter include a window with birds chirping or leaves/branches moving around that he might consider entertaining?3) Are his treats kept in a jar on the counter? And does he observe as you access and dispense said treats from this container?4) Do you have multiple pets that may chase or harass your cat and cause him to want to be up high in order to escape and/or observe?5) Does your tap drip and have you ever caught him self-helping or entertaining himself by dipping his paws into those drips? Note that with cats, suspecting he’s been up to something nefarious is almost the same as catching him in the act.While some of our own behaviors such as leaving food out can be modified, others, such as the location of a window or a lack of enclosed storage, can’t be. And these are what lead to our five tips that can help discourage our curious kitty’s from strolling the counter.The first two suggestions work well for those who leave the house for several hours a day and want to be sure they’re returning to a clean, hygienic kitchen. The last three are designed for pet owners who work from home and are able to observe their pets and then take the necessary steps to train new behaviors. Yes, cats can be trained.1. Apply sticky tape along the edge of your counter’s surface to create an unpleasant landing pad for your cat. Note we’re not talking about heavy-duty tape that could cause pain or fur loss when removed. Just annoying sticky tape that your pet won’t appreciate having to pick off her paws. While it can be a bit of a nuisance to work around, it won’t take your feline long to decide that jumping up and onto counters isn’t worth the hassle. 2. Spiky pads. Similar in nature to tape, but without the sticky residue, heavily textured strips can be purchased online or at most pet stores. These plastic strips can be cut to size and feature a grid of raised “spikes” that are soft and pliable enough to “give” under the weight of your cat (so no danger of injury). But they’re annoying enough that she’ll quickly decide to turn around and dis-embark from your counter. 3. Clicker training works on cats as well as dogs. To redirect your feline’s naughty deeds to something more positive, simply synch her treat delivery to the sound of the clicker. If you see her about to jump up onto the counter, state NO and put your hand out to block her. When she sits back down, press the clicker, provide a treat and reinforce this behavior. She’ll connect the stay-on-the-floor command with a reward and eventually, a simple click when you see her poised to jump, will keep her grounded. 4. Less rewards-based is the tried-and-true spray bottle. Each time your cat jumps up onto the counter, spritz her with a stream of water to let her know it’s not acceptable behavior. While rewards-based training is often more effective, you know your cat best including what she’s more apt to respond to. Note water streams should never be directed toward her face or eyes and include only plain cool water. No additives like soap or cleaning solutions with a scent you think may help discourage jumping. 5. Wipe your counters down with one of the many citrus sprays or cleansing wipes out on the market. Cats detest the smell of citrus and a quick wipe-down with an orange- or lemon-scented cleaner can be enough to have them change course mid-jump. These cleaners are not only a natural deterrent to your cat but they also clean and sanitize your counter surfaces in the process.Whether you have an indoor or outdoor cat, paws will get dirty with every thing from floor debris to litter remnants and even chemical pesticides if your backyard space has been treated. Add to that a cat butt that’s nicely nestled in beside the toaster oven and you begin to understand why this cozy, eye-to-eye set-up shouldn’t be encouraged. We’ve shared a few tricks to help keep your feline on the floor and willingly waiting for dinner to be served, rather than helping herself. No question, there’ll be one that fits your pet’s unique personality.

Devastating Statistics Show an Increase in Euthanasia of Cats and Dogs

According to Best Friends Animal Society, a leading national animal welfare organization dedicated to ending the killing of dogs and cats in America's shelters, for the first time in five years, the number of dogs and cats killed in U.S. shelters increased from 347,000 to 355,000. This devastating data is the result of an increase in uptakes after shelters reopened after being closed in 2020 – the following year recorded 8.1 percent more abandoned cats and dogs across the United States. The sudden changes seem to have impacted dogs more than cats, with the intake increased by nearly three times the rate of the adoptions! It’s not looking good for felines, either, as they remain most at risk, with a euthanasia rate twice higher than that of dogs.The data collected by Best Friends Animal Society indicates that there is an animal shelter crisis in America, with more and more pets being abandoned and less of them getting adopted, but it’s not all bleak – even though shelters have seen better days. There are various initiatives and programs looking to help change things for the better – for instance, Best Friends Animal Society pairs no-kill shelters with shelters that are struggling to help save the lives of animals – and shelters that collaborate with BFAS have noted that they’ve managed to save twice more lives in the last five years since working with this organization. They also help shelters across the country establish foster programs, provide accessible, affordable spay/neuter services, and run humane trap-neuter-return (TNR) programs for community cats.While the work of shelters, rescues, volunteers, and welfare organizations such as Best Friends Animal Society is invaluable and helps save so many lives of cats and dogs, they can’t save them all alone. In the end, it’s the community’s support that makes the biggest difference, whether it’s working with government leaders to advocate for changes in pet housing restrictions or motivating individuals to consider adoption over buying cats and dogs from breeders. As an individual, the best thing you can do to help mitigate the shelter crisis and prevent the euthanasia of abandoned cats and dogs is to adopt from a shelter or a rescue – you’ll gain a best friend and save a life in the process. Other helpful ways of contributing to the no-kill mission of BFAS are to spay or neuter your pet, consider fostering or volunteering at a local shelter or rescue or donating and advocating for pets in need.

Fill Your Cat’s Stocking With Temptations Treats

But what to give to your cat? It’s not like they’ll appreciate cozy socks or a holiday card, after all. While the main present could be something bigger, such as a water fountain, cat tree, or other cool cat product you have had your eye on for a while, smaller gifts are always appreciated as stocking stuffers. A bag of catnip, maybe a small toy to chase around, and don’t forget some yummy treats! Cat treats make perfect stocking stuffers for pets as they can fit anyone’s budget, you can pick special flavors to indulge your pet and make them feel pampered during the holiday season, and most importantly – every single cat will love this type of gift!Our choice for Christmas – and beyond – are, for sure, Temptations treats. With a long tradition and the prestigious title of America’s #1 cat treat brand (based on 2021 Nielsen sales data), these yummies for kitties are so popular with good reason. They are nutritionally complete and balanced and are less than 2 calories per treat so they’re good for your pet, and they are packed with rich flavors that even the finickiest felines like. What’s not to love about that? So without further ado, here’s our selection of the best stocking stuffer treats to pamper your pet with this holiday season!All-Around Favorite: Temptations Classic

How to Train Your Dog to Leave the Cat Alone

Dogs and cats living peacefully under the same roof aren’t that unusual. And it’s not unreasonable to assume that if you introduce them gradually and raise them together, they will become lifelong buddies in time. So, what do you do when that new pooch is running poor Fifi ragged and you find yourself constantly playing referee in a furry game of war?Let’s start by not assuming things will eventually settle down on their own. It’s not fair to your cat and nobody wants a dog that continually chases down and harasses smaller animals, right?Getting StartedWhether your dog is new to the household, or your cat is the recent addition, it’s important they become familiar with each other’s scent and presence in a gradual, methodical manner. Separating them for the first few days allows each to get used to hearing and sensing another animal in the house - without having to come nose to nose with them.So, who gets locked away and who gets to roam the house? According to the American Kennel Club (AKC), whoever is being newly introduced to the home should be permitted to wander and become comfortable with the new environment. During this time, you could even share blankets and toys to allow them to pick up a more personal scent from their soon-to-be roommate.After the first day, consider placing their food bowls on opposite sides of a closed door. Feeding is a positive time in a pet’s day and allowing them to smell one another’s food and hear one another eating can help nudge the inevitable face-to-face, into becoming a more positive and less stressful experience.IntroductionsWhen it’s time for them to meet, never assume it will be as easy as simply opening the door and walking away. You’ll need to consider the personalities of both pets before you move forward with that all-important introduction. And if your cat tends to be territorial, she may come out fighting. A stressed-out feline can deliver dangerous, painful scratches that take those hard-won intros right back to square one - and possibly, you to the vet with your pup.Additionally, if your new dog is a breed that tends to have a high-prey drive - including terriers, hounds and herding breeds – plan to be heavily hands-on during this important stage.You know your pets best, so based on their known personalities, energy levels, breed characteristics, and territorial tendencies, we’re sharing a few different approaches to successfully introducing a new pet to the mix.1) If your dog or cat is already established in the home and you know them to be confident and likely territorial you may want to introduce a crate or carrier to the meet-and-greet process. After an initial two-day separation phase, bring them out and set them up in their carrier for 20 to 30 minutes. Include a few favorite treats and let the new pet wander around. This will give each of them that all-important first visual of the new addition without the opportunity to attack or chase. Again, just short sessions, several times a day with your already-established pet being moved back to their separate space in between intros. Eventually open the carrier door to allow them to exit if they so choose - and particularly for cats, only if she’s no longer showing signs of aggression.For skittish cats that hide around strangers, an out-in-the-open introduction isn't going to be the right approach. Read on, for other options.2) For dogs that have mastered the basic commands, you may want to consider using a “sit”, “stay”, “lay down”, or “leave it” approach that allows both animals to roam freely, but ensures your dog will instantly halt if the cat becomes wary or stressed. This less-structured method will also require your feline to have a readily accessible “escape space” such as under a bed, on top of a counter or high up on a shelf, where she can feel safe if necessary. This is an ideal method for felines who tend to be cautious but curious. Again, it would be used following the initial two-day separation period and will require you to be present throughout, to carefully monitor the situation and reward your pooch with treats when he obeys and/or ignores the cat.If your dog is still working on his commands and you’re not convinced he’ll readily obey, consider leashing him while you work through this method of introduction.3) When dealing with a young, boisterous pup who could possibly harm a smaller or older feline even after the initial separation process, you may want to take a more proactive approach. Consider an interim step by using an open-air, basket-style muzzle while you train the benefits of leaving the cat alone. The muzzle is only to be used when training a more respectful behavior – not throughout the day as a safeguard for when you’re not around. Over time and as his command training completes, you shouldn’t need the muzzle at all. And to prevent your dog from associating the muzzle with punishment, always insert a tasty treat or two for him to discover and enjoy. 4) If you’ve never tried clicker training, it’s a highly effective way to get the attention of a distracted dog and get him to respond to commands. While typically used for the five basic commands of sit, stay, lay down, heel and leave it, a clicker can also direct your dog to leave the cat alone. As with all other introductory methods, you should allow a two or three-day period of separation with gradual sensory awareness that ensures the appearance of this new pet, doesn’t come as a surprise and result in a negative face-to-face. Once this has been completed and your pets are moving around within the same space, use clicker training to reward your dog each time you observe him notice the cat but leave her alone. This rewards-based training requires that you click and offer a treat, whenever your dog indicates that he’s noticed the cat.Whether he’s excited and whining or totally non-plussed, the goal is for your dog to associate the cat, with a treat. As a result, his inclination will change from chasing to looking toward you so he can get that reward he just earned for not chasing. Be consistent and expect to spend a week or more working on this method of introduction. 5) The success of this last method will depend entirely on how much your dog covets his toys. Some dogs live and breathe for a squeaky toy, frisbee or ball. For others (like mine), not so much. The goal of this style of introduction is to create a positive distraction that will have your pooch ignoring the cat and redirecting his focus toward his fun new toy. Following that important separation period and gradual introduction, interact with your dog and his new toy by playing a game with the cat nearby but not in the line of fire. Toss a ball, hide a plush toy behind your back – whatever it takes to engage his attention. If he notices the cat or becomes distracted by her, re-engage him with the toy (squeaky toys are great for grabbing his attention) and give him a treat for looking your way.Your pooch is now learning that having a fun time with you that includes a new toy and tasty treats is so much more interesting than pursuing the cat. Eventually, the novelty of chasing the cat will wear off.Calm, amiable introductions can be quick and painless or a drawn-out, seemingly never-ending work in progress. To successfully integrate your family of pets, you need to respect their triggers, watch for potential conflicts and anticipate spending days and weeks creating a stable, non-threatening environment for both. Remember, you’re not striving for world peace, just peace in your world.

How to Train a Blind Dog

As our pets age, they’ll inevitably begin to lose some of their senses – particularly their hearing and eyesight. And whether your dog has lost vision due to age, illness or accident, there’s no reason he can’t still enjoy the same active, fun-filled life as that of a fully sighted dog. But if that includes walks, visits to a leash-free park and navigating a house, yard or back deck, he’ll need a little help from you. And this is where training enters the picture.Getting StartedRegardless of whether your dog knows the five basic commands of Sit, Stay, Heel, Leave It and Come, or never quite got around to mastering them, it’s going to be important that he re-learn them in a manner that’s appropriate to a visually impaired dog. And with rewards-based training, this can be a fun, bonding experience for you and your pet.Gain His AttentionOne of the first steps in training a blind dog is to get his attention. You need him focused on your movements, receptive to your commands and eager to gain a reward. And without vision, he’s going to be relying on his other senses including hearing, touch and smell.If you’ve not yet used clicker training, this might just be the time to try it. With this type of training, you use a small, hand-held clicker that you depress to make a short, sharp click sound. Use it to capture your pet’s attention before introducing a verbal command he can follow and receive a reward. Click, command, treat, repeat.Other means include clapping your hands or yelling in his direction. But with a clicker, you can accomplish this faster and more effectively due to its unique sound that will be new to him.Let’s Start TrainingOnce you’ve got your pet’s attention – either by clicker, voice, whistle, or other sounds - you’re ready to start training him on the basics.Quick ResponseOne thing that won’t change despite his vision loss is your pet’s ability to recognize his name. And once you’ve captured his attention, this is a great way to keep him engaged while you provide him with direction. You begin with a pocketful of treats that he earns each time you call him by name and he comes over or looks up toward you. And with treats involved, he’ll be working his way over pretty quickly. Do this a few times a day over a couple of days. The goal is for him to become highly responsive and eager to come to you when he hears you say his name. Sit, Stay, and Down CommandsIt’s called “luring” and it’s a fun way for your pet to learn or re-learn the basics. Most dogs will immediately respond to the sit command. But instead of automatically offering him a treat for this behavior, slowly move the treat down between his front paws. The nose will follow and as he begins to assume a “down” or “lay down” position, use the clicker and say “down” so that he associates the word with the action. Follow with the treat and repeat throughout the day.

All The Best Things We Found At SuperZoo 2022

SuperZoo 2022 did not disappoint! It was full of amazing people, amazing companies, amazing products and of course, amazing pets.

Ask the Animal Communicator: Concerns About Pets in Costume

Dear Shannon, We are a multi-pet family – two dogs, one cat, one ferret and two seriously over-excited kiddos who are already planning our animals’ holiday costumes for this year. I let them dress up our older dog, Gracie, up last year and she was a good sport about it (thank goodness). But this year they also want to dress up our other dog, Maddie, our cat, Yonkers, and our ferret, Sultan. And I am worried our pets are going to be stressed and miserable. Is there any way to tell if the animals are okay with wearing costumes? If not, I need to come up with a plan B for my kids and fast. Thanks, Concerned Corinne Shannon’s reply:Hi Corinne,First things first. THANK YOU for putting this question out there. As your own intuition is picking up, there can be a big difference between a pet who is being a good sport about wearing a costume and a pet who is really enjoying the experience. As you also highlight, there can be an equally huge gap between a pet who tolerates holiday costumes and a pet who outright hates dressing up.The good news here is, there is definitely a way to tell how each one of your pets feels about costumes. And the easiest way is to simply ask them, which is exactly what I do as an animal communicator.As I tune in with your animals, I do get that Gracie is willing to be a good sport again this year. Her heart for your family and especially your kids is so huge – the emotion she sends to me is one of a mother, so nurturing and protective and happy when they are happy. Since you didn’t say what kind of pet costumes your kids are planning (for example, just body attire or hats/facemasks, shoes/booties and capes/other accessories) I showed Gracie an array of options and she still gives me the same response. She will wear what “her” kids want her to wear and love it for their sake.Maddie has a different vibe. When I tune in with her, I feel a wave of anxiety run through me. As I’m showing her the different costume options, the only one she is even willing to tolerate is body attire. No masks, no hats, no capes and definitely nothing on her feet. As an animal communicator, I tend to get a lot of physical sensations in my own body when I am tuned in with my pet clients. With Maddie, I feel myself getting physically overheated and then starting to feel itchy. This may be part of her stress response or may also indicate there is a literal concern she might overheat in a costume or that a costume may aggravate an underlying skin condition or allergy. I want to share all of this because when it comes to telling your kids why Maddie isn’t a great candidate for wearing a costume, it will help to have specific reasons.Yonkers is surprisingly open to the idea of wearing a costume. His personality comes across as adventurous, playful, and honestly more dog-like in his behavior than most cats I talk with. Yonkers is not okay with one aspect of costume-wearing, however – shoes. He is very clear about this. He does not want anything on or around his feet!Sultan was funny to talk with because he doesn’t seem to grasp the issue of costumes or no costumes. He repeatedly shows me images of him running through his narrow ferret tunnel, plunging into boxes of what looks like sports gear and toys and even trying to crawl into something that looks a lot like a tube attachment for an old-school vacuum (not sure what that might be?). If I had to sum up Sultan’s personality, I would put him in the “up for anything” category. So as long as your kids can manage to keep a costume on him, I would say Sultan doesn’t have a problem with their plan.The one caveat to all of this is that body language – what we human animals call “nonverbal communication” – stays remarkably constant across species. So if your kids put a costume on any one of your pets and you see signs of extreme stress, constriction or discomfort, trust that and either try a different costume or forgo the plan with that pet. How can you tell if your animal’s body language is giving you the no-go sign? Imagine you are that pet and you are doing the same thing with your body or you have the same basic expression on your own face. This method uses your empathy pathway to tune in with how your pet is feeling in that moment. I also strongly recommend getting your pets used to their costumes a little at a time. Even with Gracie who pretty much gives your kids the green light on anything they want her to wear, give her a chance to get used to her costume in advance. Also let each pet wear their costume in low light conditions as well as during the day. Try it on both indoors and outside. Do a trial run in costume at the actual venue or area both indoors and outdoors so your pets can log the sights and smells into their sensory database in advance.I hope this helps, Corinne! You have some pretty great pets in your family who love your kids very much and are really willing to stretch outside their comfort zones to make them happy. On that note, I wish you a very happy (and very cute!) family holiday together.From my heart,Shannon

5 Most Common Rabbit Diseases and How To Prevent Them

Just like any other pet animal, rabbits are also susceptible to a range of diseases and illnesses throughout their life. Some might be due to genetic factors, or other environmental factors, and some are contracted from other rabbits – in either case, it’s important to spot the signs on time to make sure your pet has the best chances of recovering from whatever ails them. To help you recognize when your rabbit needs medical help, we’ve rounded up the 5 most common rabbit diseases and their symptoms.Gastrointestinal (GI) StasisThe dreaded GI stasis is, unfortunately, a fairly common issue among pet rabbits, but if left untreated, it can quickly become fatal. This is why it’s essential to know how to recognize this sneaky but deadly disease! GI stasis happens when the gut microbiome of a rabbit is out of balance and there are not enough good bacteria in their digestive tract, which contributes to their intestines slowing down and not being able to digest food. As a result, hair ingested when self-grooming can get stuck in their intestines, causing a fatal blockage – which is why many people mistakenly believe that GI stasis is caused by hairball blockage when in reality it precedes it. The main symptoms of GI stasis are gassiness, diarrhea, lethargy, and teeth grinding combined with a hunched posture, indicating that your rabbit is in pain. If you notice any of these, be sure to contact your vet ASAP! The best way to prevent gastrointestinal stasis is to ensure your pet’s digestive system is functioning optimally – by ensuring that the majority of their diet consists of quality hay to provide them with fiber. Also, it pays to make sure that their teeth are in check, as dental pain or discomfort has a direct impact on their diet, and, as such, could be a contributing factor to GI stasis.Overgrown TeethUnlike most animals, a rabbit’s teeth never stop growing. That’s right, your pet bunny’s teeth will grow for as long as they live – but it can become an issue if they are not consistently filed down. One of many reasons why rabbits need a diet rich in hay is the fact that chewing on roughage helps keep a bunny’s teeth in check by slowly grinding them down. Having in mind that a rabbit’s teeth can grow up to 4-5 inches a year if your pet consumes mostly soft pellets or leafy greens and doesn’t eat vast amounts of coarse hay each day, problems can quickly arise. When a rabbit's teeth are overgrown, it is extremely painful for them, as the teeth can cut into their gums, cheeks, or tongue – or be abcessed at the root. Either way, you’ll notice your rabbit is drooling excessively, loss of appetite, and as a result, loss of stool and GI stasis. In other words, if you neglect to address this issue, it can prove to be fatal for your bunny.The best way to prevent overgrown teeth is to ensure your pet’s diet is rich in grass hay and to regularly check their teeth. Once they are overgrown, the only solution is to get them to a veterinarian that specializes in rabbits, so they can put the rabbit under anesthesia and trim the teeth down.Head Tilt or TorticollisIf you notice that your bunny is constantly tilting their head to one side, don’t ignore it – it can be a sign that they have a serious health issue that’s causing it. Usually, it’s one of two things that cause head tilt: bacterial infection or parasitic infestation. In the first case, a rabbit is suffering from an inner ear infection that has progressed to a more severe state. The ear canal will be full of puss and your rabbit will tilt their head, flicker their eyes, have vertigo, and lose appetite. When it's an issue of parasites, it's a protozoan named Encephalitozoon cuniculi that is to blame. This microscopic parasite infects the brain and the central nervous system, resulting in a range of neurological symptoms such as head tilting, seizures, tremors, paralysis or weakness of hind limbs, eye abnormalities, and so on. Regardless of the underlying issue, both torticollis-causing illnesses are treatable when diagnosed on time. Anti-inflammatory drugs are a must in both cases, either paired with antibiotics or anti-parasitics, depending on your pet’s specific problem. MyxomatosisUnfortunately, this viral rabbit disease is both highly contagious and often fatal. It is transmitted via fleas, mosquitoes, or from one rabbit to another – if they are in close contact and immunocompromised. The symptoms of myxomatosis are swelling, redness, or ulcers around the eyes, nose, and genital region, discharge from the eyes and nose, respiratory issues, and loss of appetite – to name the easiest to spot. There’s no cure for myxomatosis, so if the disease has progressed to severe symptoms, the only course of action is offering supportive care or euthanasia as the bunny won’t recover.Luckily, even though myxomatosis isn’t treatable or curable, it is completely preventable. There is a vaccine against myxomatosis for rabbits that will keep your bunny safe from this cruel disease. Even if a vaccinated rabbit catches this disease, it is only in a mild form which is fully treatable and won’t cause severe issues and death as it would in an unvaccinated bunny.Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus (RHDV, Calicivirus)As the name suggests, this infectious disease attacks a rabbit’s internal organs and causes hemorrhaging (internal bleeding), resulting in a fatal outcome. And as if that wasn’t horrible enough, rabbit calicivirus is highly spreadable, as it can be transmitted through mosquitoes, flies, contact with infected rabbits or droppings – even other animals and humans can bring rabbit hemorrhagic disease to the home and infect the bunny. In some countries, such as Australia and New Zealand, strains of RHDV are intentionally released in the wild to help keep the population of wild rabbits under control, as they are considered a pest in those areas.While there is no cure or treatment that can help a rabbit that’s been infected by rabbit hemorrhagic disease, there is a yearly vaccine that can keep your pet protected. It is particularly important to vaccinate your rabbit if you live in an area that uses RHDV to control rabbit populations in the wild, but in other countries, too – this sneaky virus transmits easily and has devastating consequences.

Should You Get a Kitten for Your Senior Cat?

What are some of the things to consider before making such a big decision? Continue reading for some information that can help ensure you’ll make the right choice. A Kitten Might Cause Your Senior Cat to Feel StressedEven though you might assume that a kitten will make your cat happy or help them feel young again, the truth is a rambunctious kitty might stress out your senior, who likely just wants to take things easy and relax in a quiet and peaceful environment. Older cats tend to be set in a routine that works for them, so introducing a cat of any age – but especially a kitten – may be nerve-wracking. After all, in addition to meeting someone new, your senior will need to adjust to a kitten who has seemingly endless amounts of energy and is always asking to play. Adopt an Older Cat or a Pair of KittensA cat that’s as calm as your senior might be a better fit than a youngster who is under 1 year of age. So, in addition to considering your senior’s personality, the new cat’s age and personality are worth thinking about carefully too. Things might go more smoothly if you can find a kitty who is a good match for your senior based on their age, temperament, and energy level. In other words, adopting an adult cat or another senior is an option. A cat who is closer in age to your senior might not be as stressful, but bear in mind that there are no guarantees. Or, if you must get a kitten, consider what their personality will probably be like once they outgrow the kitten stage. Another option might be to adopt two kittens so they will be able to play with each other and keep each other company while leaving your senior cat alone to do their own thing. This arrangement might work out better for all of your kitties, but keep in mind that the kittens might still bother your senior cat every now and then if they want to play or practice their hunting and fighting skills. No matter what, introduce your cats to one another gradually to help reduce the odds of conflicts and anxiety. Your Senior Cat’s Needs Are ImportantRemember, it’s wise to evaluate your senior’s personality, preferences, wants, and needs first. If your senior used to live with one or more cats and is missing the companionship, bringing home another feline might work out fine. On the other hand, if your senior has been living most or all of their life as the only cat in the house, they might not take well to sharing territory. Also, a new kitten will take up a lot of your attention, so you want to be sure that you’ll still be able to give your senior the care and affection they require.Bottom line: there’s a lot to reflect on before bringing a kitten home to a senior cat. Carefully weigh the pros and cons so you can make the decision that will keep everyone happy.

How to Train Your Cat to Use Speech Buttons

If you want to teach your kitty to talk to you with the help of speech buttons, there are some things to keep in mind. There’s no guarantee that your cat will use the buttons, as every pet is unique and some might not be interested in learning this technique. If you have a multi-cat household, you might find that certain kitties are willing to use the buttons while others ignore them. Also, the entire process takes a lot of time and patience, so try not to get discouraged if you don’t get results right away.Below are some basic tips to help you get started.Purchase the Right Buttons for Your CatThere are several options when it comes to speech buttons for pets. Some are larger than others, and some are pricier than others. Check product features and customer reviews so you can uncover the pros and cons of various sets. Consider how easy they are to press, how clear they sound, how long the batteries last, etc.Also, think about what your kitty would prefer. For instance, would she prefer using small buttons or big ones? It really depends on your cat, and you can find videos of kitties using different types of buttons to get an idea of how they work.Choose Your WordsOnce you have your buttons, it’s time to consider which words you’ll use to begin teaching your kitty to talk to you. It’s also wise to start with just a few, or even just one button, before adding more over time. It may be best to begin with words that represent items and actions. For example, you might record one button for “treats” and another for “play” or “cuddle.” If your kitty is already familiar with these words because you use them often, it may help her better understand what the buttons are saying.Use Modeling to Teach Your Cat to Use the ButtonsPlace the buttons in an area where you and your pet will be able to use them with ease. Some kits come with mats that make it simpler to organize your buttons, or you might use stickers to differentiate between them. Then, use what’s known as modeling to teach your cat that each button corresponds with something she can ask for. For instance, if you have a “play” button, you can ask your cat if she wants to play, press the button, and then grab a toy. Remember, you’ll also need to teach your kitty to press the button herself, and target training could work well for that.By being consistent and using the buttons every day, you may increase the odds that your cat will learn to use them. And, before long, you might be communicating with your pet in a whole new way.

Adoptable Dog of the Week - Mocha

Looking for a bestie that will always be up to go to Starbucks with you? Our Adoptable Dog of the Week is Mocha, a 5 year old Labradoodle from Atlanta, Georgia. She is spayed, up to date on her vaccines, and currently working on her housetraining. Mocha does well with other dogs and gets along with cats, but hasn’t been tested around children in her foster home.Mocha’s Tale This gorgeous gal is truly a joy to be around! She is very sweet and cuddly, and loves spending time with her humans – she’ll shower you with love and expect the same in return. Mocha is also very smart and eager to learn: she’s currently working on her potty manners and is doing great. She quickly caught on to follow the lead of other dogs in her foster home and knows you need to go outside to do your business. However, since she’s used to going outside in the yard, if you don’t have one, it might take a bit for her to readjust to go potty on a leash – just something to have in mind. A friendly, loving doggo, Mocha does well with other pets in her foster home. She’s good with cats and enjoys being with other dogs, although she’s not very playful with her canine siblings – it would be better if her new four-legged friends are as easy-going and laid back as she is. Mocha is afraid of thunderstorms and can be a bit anxious in general, so she needs an experienced adopter that has experience with mild dog anxiety and would be willing to help her cope in stressful situations.If you’ve fallen head over heels for Mocha and think you could give her a great life, contact Orphan Annie Rescue to learn more about her and the adoption process.

Very Cherry Berry Blast Dog Treat Recipe

We love fruit… and so do our pooches. If you want to bake up some sweet treats, give our Very Cherry Berry Blast Dog Treat Recipe a try. Cherries have vitamin A and C, fiber, antioxidants, melatonin, and other beneficial nutrients. You can use frozen or fresh sweet or tart cherries (not Maraschino cherries) – it’s up to you. Just be sure that they’re pitted before making these treats, as they can damage their teeth, cause blockages in the gut, and contain trace amounts of cyanide.Makes about 24 medium-sized treats.Ingredients:1/2 cup blueberries or raspberries, sliced1/2 cup cherries, pitted and sliced1/2 cup apple sauce1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour1 teaspoon cinnamonInstructions:1. Preheat oven to 350° F degrees and line baking sheet with parchment paper.2. In a food processor or blender, puree blueberries and cherries until smooth.3. In a large bowl, add all the ingredients and mix until a dough forms.4. Once well mixed, place dough onto a floured surface, rolling out to ¼ inch thickness. Cut with cookie cutters and place on them on the baking sheet.5. Place in oven and bake for 20 minutes.6. Remove from oven and place on cooling racks for 2-3 hours. 7. Place in airtight container and store in fridge or freezer.

Top 10 Best Breeds to Take RV’ing

However, none of the above means that all dogs are suited to RV travel. And the difference between camping and RVing is that while one centers around a few hours of travel followed by several nights at a site, the other is long-haul travel with few breaks and in relatively confined quarters.While any breed can be packed up and taken “on the road”, not all enjoy the process nor are they physically suited for this style of travel. Which leads to this. Before you invest in that great big motorhome, you may want to consider whether it’s the right fit for your four-legged family member/s. Conversely, if the open road is calling and you’re thinking the only thing that could make it perfect would be a pooch riding shotgun (true, by the way), then check out our list below. Because if you want to know which breeds do the RV thing best, we’ve come up with a shortlist of the top 10 (in no particular order).

Hay for Rabbits and Why It’s Important

Rabbits are grazing herbivores, which means that they only eat plants and eat them throughout the day – and the plant they eat most of is hay. In fact, at least 75% to 80% of a rabbit’s diet should consist primarily of high-quality grass hay! Their digestive systems are perfectly adapted to hay, as a high-fiber diet is optimal for their complex needs. As avid self-groomers, rabbits tend to ingest a lot of hair when cleaning themselves, but unfortunately, their gastrointestinal tract cannot properly break down and pass hair. That’s why they need a lot of roughage in their daily diet – it helps pass the hair through the intestines safely where it is expelled in the stool. Additionally, if a rabbit isn’t eating enough hay – and mind you, they should be eating their body’s weight in hay per day – their gut flora will change, and it can lead to a deadly condition called GI stasis.In addition to helping keep their digestive system functioning properly, hay also helps file down rabbit’s teeth and prevent overgrowth or malocclusion. Rabbit’s teeth grow throughout their life, and if left unchecked, they can grow too much and cause health issues. On average, a rabbit’s teeth will grow as much as 2 mm each day, and it quickly adds up – in a year, they can grow up to 12 cm! When a rabbit eats a lot of hay, the coarseness of it will gradually grind the new growth, keeping their teeth in check.What Type of Hay Rabbits Eat? There are various types of hay for rabbits available, so you might be wondering which type of it is the best for your pet. While hay is basically just dried grass, it doesn’t mean that any dried grass will do – it has to be safe for rabbits to consume and contain the right amount of fiber and nutrients. The most common choice is timothy hay, which is a mix of leaves and stems of the perennial Timothy grass – it’s thick and coarse, which is optimally suited to a rabbit’s digestive system, and has the right amount of protein and fiber as well. Next, you have orchard grass hay. This type of hay has a softer texture than timothy hay does and contains less protein even though it’s exceptionally rich in fiber, but it has a sweeter smell and taste, which is why some bunnies prefer it. Meadow grass hay (or pasture hay) is not “real” hay, but rather a mixture of various types of grass that have been gathered from meadows and pastures (hence the name) and then dried in a kiln. The combination of different textures and tastes suits picky bunnies, but it might be more calorie-dense than timothy hay, which is why it should be fed in moderation.Oat hay is grown as a specific crop and harvested before the seed heads form, to ensure its digestibility. It is rich in fiber, minerals, and vitamins. Rabbits tend to love it mostly because of oat husks which have a crunchy texture they appreciate.Alfalfa hay is technically neither grass nor hay but rather a legume in the pea family – it’s also called lucerne. As a result, it is quite rich in protein and can be too nutrient dense for adult bunnies, and could lead to obesity if fed often or exclusively. However, when it comes to kits and growing bunnies, alfalfa hay is an excellent choice as it will help them grow into strong, healthy rabbits.Herbal hay can be a fun treat for an indoor-only rabbit, as it introduces certain herbs that bunnies would normally eat when foraging outdoors into their daily meals. It mixes timothy hay with dried chamomile, dandelions, or marigolds to give your pet a taste of what they would normally eat on the outside.ConclusionHay is the primary food source for rabbits – it contains high amounts of fiber, which helps maintain a healthy gut microbiome and wear down constantly growing teeth, which in turn prevents common health issues for rabbits such as GI stasis or malocclusion. You should offer high-quality hay in unlimited amounts, as your rabbit needs to eat their body weight of hay on a daily basis, combined with occasional rabbit pellets and rabbit-safe vegetables to introduce essential vitamins and minerals to their diet. The best choice is timothy hay, for its coarseness and high fiber content, but if you have a picky bunny, you can mix timothy hay with some tastier, richer hay such as oat hay or orchard grass hay.

Spondylosis in Senior Dogs

Most dog owners are familiar with the more common situations like loss of vision and hearing or the development of arthritis. But one risk that fewer dog owners have heard of is spondylosis. What is spondylosis in senior dogs, and can it be prevented? Let’s learn a little about this often-overlooked condition. What is Spondylosis? Spondylosis is a condition that occurs when the vertebral bones of a dog’s spine deteriorate naturally over time and bony spurs develop along the edges of the bones. These are the bones in your dog’s spinal column. Deterioration can be from normal wear and tear with age, or it may have started because of a previous spinal injury. In some cases, the bone spurs grow large enough that they meet up with a second spur causing a condition known as “Bridging Spondylosis”. While Spondylosis is most common in larger senior dogs, it can also be seen in middle-aged dogs or breeds of any size. Research shows that it is a common condition specifically in Boxers, indicating that there are some breeds that may have a genetic predisposition for developing Spondylosis. Symptoms of Spondylosis Recognizing and identifying Spondylosis is incredibly difficult because most dogs won’t display any symptoms. Instead, the condition is usually found “accidentally” while running x-rays and other testing for unrelated health conditions. For example, an x-ray may be taken to identify an intestinal blockage and reveal the bone spurs. In some cases, the bone spurs will grow in a way that limits normal movement of a dog’s spine. This leads to a change in the way that a dog moves and walks. They become stiff and rigid in their movements rather than moving freely as they normally would. They may also have difficulty with movements like jumping, rolling over, or even getting up to their feet after they have been lying down. Occasionally a bone spur will form near a nerve, putting pressure on it. When this happens, it causes significant pain resulting in whining, crying, pacing, tenderness, or avoidance to keep from being touched. If you notice any changes in your senior dog’s movement, contact your veterinarian, and explain your concerns. They will be able to run tests and work with you to find the cause. How Long Do Dogs Live with Spondylosis? Treatment will depend on the severity of your dog’s Spondylosis and is focused on addressing the symptoms rather than treating the condition itself. Your veterinarian may not recommend any medicinal treatment if your dog is currently showing no signs of pain. For painful cases of Spondylosis, anti-inflammatory medications or pain medications may be prescribed. Surgery may be needed in the rare cases where the bone spurs are directly impacting the spinal cord. In addition to medical treatment, there are steps that you can take to manage your dog’s condition. Weight management is important to minimize the pressure being put on the spine. This includes careful monitoring of your dog’s diet as well as regular physical exercise. Avoid high-impact exercise programs that could put unnecessary strain on your dog’s body. Changes around the home may be necessary to keep your senior dog comfortable, especially if their mobility has changed. If your dog is struggling to navigate stairs, consider using a ramp. Ramps can also be used to make it easier for your dog to get up on the couch or the bed for cuddles.

Scare The Poop Out of Us Halloween Dog Costume Contest

BOO! We love Halloween – the candy, the costumes, the parties, the roaming gangs of brain-hungry zombies… And because we love Halloween so much, we want to see your dog donned in his or her costume drag! Get your dogs dressed up, your cameras out and email us your picture during our Halloween Costume Contest!Just email a picture of your scary cute dog in costume to photos@petguide.com and you’ll be entered. Or send it or post it to our Facebook page. All of the photos sent to us will be featured on our Facebook page.What Do I Do?: Email photos@petguide.com with 1 (ONE) photo that you own of your pet dressed up in costume. The photo can be a current or one that was taken in the past. You agree that we can post the photo on our social media accounts and in conjunction with news about the contest. Send the photo to photos@petguide.com with the subject line HALLOWEEN CONTEST. Please include your name, location, and dog’s name, plus a little story about the picture, if you have one. Only one entry per person. If you submit more than one photo for the contest, we will only consider the FIRST photo you submitted. If you have more than one dog, you are welcome to gather them together in their costumes and submit ONE picture of them together.How Do I Win?: 4 (Four) Winners selected by our panel of three judges, based on theme, photo clarity, and smile-factor.Where Can I See My Photo?: All of the photos can be seen on our Facebook page. We’ll feature the winner on a dedicated post on PetGuide.com.

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