Study: Genetic Mutation Linked to Brachycephaly in Dogs

Beginner’s Guide to Properly Handling Rabbits

Rabbits can be such wonderful pets – they are affectionate, smart, and even goofy at times! These are just some of the reasons why so many people around the world choose them as their family pets. But before you commit to a rabbit pet, there are a few key things to know about. And the first and foremost is bunny handling. These are fragile and energetic creatures, and you want to know what is the best way to handle them easily and safely. It is all about the right approach and plenty of patience and care to ensure their safety at all times. Before you start, remember that you should not avoid handling rabbits. In fact, when done properly, handling your bunny can only enrich your bond. This is because rabbits are naturally social and affectionate creatures, especially when they are spayed and neutered. By handling them often and with gentleness and care, you will build a strong relationship with your pet and the affectionate nature of your bunny pet will quickly come to the forefront. However, it is crucial that you approach handling them with great care, because if you don't, you can either scare your bunny and damage your relationship, or even worse, inadvertently hurt them.The Sooner You Start, the BetterThe first thing to keep in mind is that you should start handling your bunny early on. Introducing your bunny to handling and human touch as early as possible will get them used to it much faster than if you wait until you try to pick them up. At this point, it is important to remember that, in nature, rabbits are prey for many predators. This means that they will have defensive instincts, and be naturally timid and fearful as a result. If you try to initiate physical contact abruptly, they can see it as a threat, and try to jump out of your hands, run away from you, or simply get too scared to get close to you again. Those first contacts are important, so be gentle, talk in a gentle and hushed voice, and take things slowly. Make no sudden movements! Don’t start handling in a chaotic or restless environment - peace and quiet can help relax your rabbit pet.Be Gentle And CarefulAs you start handling your rabbit, always keep in mind the fact that they can be quite fragile. Their little bones and bodies are delicate at best – so no squishing, strong grips, and holding them against their will. If a bunny is desperate to get out of your grip, they can end up hurting themselves from the sheer effort. Even worse, they can jump out of your hands and injure themselves from the fall, so take your time and be patient with them. It is best to get down low as you pick up a rabbit. Being closer to their level is less likely to scare them, and it also prevents you from dropping them from a height. Once you’re down closer to a safe height, remember to be slow and careful. Next, try picking them up: one hand should go underneath the bunny, across their chest, while the other should go beneath their backside. Once you are holding them with both hands, you can slowly place them against your body. Feeling your warmth and gentleness, and your soft words can help them feel secure.It should be obvious, but never pick your rabbit in any other way than this – don’t hold them on their backs, tug on their ears, or hoist them by their legs. All this is very dangerous and potentially fatal for a little rabbit. What To Do If Your Rabbit Doesn’t Want to Be HeldSome bunnies, due to their high prey instincts, simply won’t enjoy getting handled. Others will accept it, and some only after a while. So take your time, and gradually lengthen the time you’re cradling the bunny. After a while, they will get used to you and become comfortable as well. As you are holding your pet rabbit, remember to show them affection. Slowly “groom” them by petting their head gently, around the eyes, on the ears, and on top of their nose. This imitates natural behavior between rabbits. Also follow the signs your rabbit gives you: some enjoy getting pets on the head, and others love getting back and butt scratches. If you take all these necessary steps and be patient and gentle, you and your rabbit will quickly establish an affectionate relationship that can last for many long years!

Funny Cat Quirks and Habits That Might Surprise You

But your cat’s behavior doesn’t have to be a mystery, as experts have worked hard to figure out why felines do certain things that might not make much sense to you. Here are a few examples of kitty quirks and the possible reasons behind these behaviors. Finding Squares to Sit InIt’s a well-known fact that cats like sitting in boxes. But have you noticed that your cat will sit on a square or rectangular object? And if you were to create a square on the floor using masking tape, your cat might end up taking a seat inside the lines. What’s this behavior all about? Well, it might be a way for cats to feel a little more secure. Basically, by sitting in an outline of a box, they might get the same sense of safety that they get when inside a box. Of course, giving your pet actual boxes, such as cardboard boxes and cat condos, is best. Wiping the Floor Around the Food BowlYou know that cats like to cover their urine and feces with litter, but what might surprise you is that some of them also make the same motion after they’re done eating. In other words, a cat might eat and then start wiping the floor around the food bowl. And if there is anything nearby that she could use to cover the bowl, she might reach for it and use her claws to pull it over. Although this behavior seems odd, your cat may simply be following her instincts. Wild felines might cover their food for reasons like hiding their scent so other animals won’t be able to find them. Try to take note of when your cat exhibits this behavior. For example, it might happen every time she eats or only when some food gets on the floor and she wants to clean the area. Or, you might notice your kitty doing this when there are leftovers in the bowl or when she doesn’t like a particular food. Getting Excited When You Change the Sheets on Your BedWhen you have a cat, the simple act of changing the sheets on your bed turns into an amusing experience because your kitty will probably want to jump on the bed and start playing. Although this might stop you from efficiently making the bed, it’s fun watching your pet get excited as she darts under the sheets with loads of energy. Why do cats do this? Well, the motion of the sheets or the fact that they create a sort of cave-like environment to hide in might get her ready to “hunt.” Or, perhaps your cat just likes clean sheets as much as you do. Whatever the reason is, this is one quirk that is sure to make you giggle.

SpotOn GPS Dog Fence Review

Pets aren’t just animals we keep around - they are members of the family, and you want to keep them safe. Dogs especially fall into this category for me, and I try to do whatever I can to keep my puppies happy and around. When it comes time to let your pooches outside to do their business, you usually have a few options. Tie-out cables work ok, except they can get tangled or break, and if this happens during the night, it can be a massive headache. Fenced-in pens are very costly, especially since the days of Covid when it seemed every farm supply store had a run on fence materials and the costs went way up. Underground fences are a great way to contain your dog in your yard, but there were some limitations that always made it a hard sell for me. You had to establish a perimeter, usually with a buried wire, and once that perimeter was set, there it was. If anything disrupted the line, the whole thing could go down, too. When I got the chance to try out the SpotOn GPS Fence, I jumped at it, as it seemed like the answer I was looking for.

5 Most Common Horse Injuries and How to Treat Them

In the lifetime of every horse, injuries are bound to happen at some time – maybe even more than once. This is especially true for horses that are fairly active, such as race and show horses, or work horses. These injuries can be fairly common and range from minor ones to major ones. Either way, as a responsible horse owner, you should be familiar with the most common of these injuries and just how to treat them before the vet arrives (if needed). #1 PuncturesScrapes, cuts, punctures – these are some of the most common injuries to happen to horses. They are usually caused by long and sharp objects that can penetrate deep below the skin. For example, imagine a long thorn piercing the horse's leg as they trundle through a bush, or a sharp piece of wire hiding in the dust poking deep into the hoof. These injuries are hard to avoid, especially since you simply can’t know what hides in the dirt or the grass. But you can treat them. And time is of the essence in such a case, as untreated puncture wounds can get infected, damaging the horse's leg and causing lameness. Keep in mind that punctures are not the same as slashes. They can be easy to overlook since the puncture is marked only by a tiny wound. However, it is hard to properly handle such a wound, unless you are a pro. You should call the vet immediately, and try to relieve the pain of the wound by hosing it with cold water. #2 Inflamed Joints (Osteoarthritis)Joint inflammation can affect both senior and younger horses, and usually targets parts called the “coffin”, hock joints, and fetlock. A common way for inflammation to occur is through a sudden increase in workloads, as well as certain movements that a horse might perform, such as jumping, tight turns, collected gaits, novel footing, or any other uncommon movements. Working on difficult rocky terrain for prolonged periods can also cause such inflammation. Joint inflammation can appear suddenly and unexpectedly, and disappear quite quickly. But if it keeps reappearing, it can turn into osteoarthritis, which can be more difficult to cure. Sings of joint inflammation are subtle, but still noticeable: difficulty moving, stiff and unusual movements, and later swelling, heat, and pain. This condition unarguably requires a careful veterinary examination, and a lighter case of inflammation can be relieved with box rest and cold hosing of the inflamed joints. #3 SorenessSore muscles affect all creatures. But horses, being so powerfully built, can feel that ailment more than others. It is true that hard work and exercise will build muscle, but when you overwork your horse, soreness can occur. Strained muscles are painful and can quickly lead to more serious injury. They are commonly seen in horses, and usually target a single group of muscles that is continually overworked. For example, it is common in dressage horses, who place greater focus on their hind quarters. Muscle soreness is a common injury, but is considered mild, and its symptoms can be somewhat difficult to spot. Keep an eye out for stiff movements or avoidance of certain exercises. To treat this injury, give your horse some time off to rest and relax, and try massaging the affected muscles. Also, don’t rush into their exercises – give them time to warm up. #4 Strained ligamentsLigaments are very important in a horse’s body, and certain accidents can cause them to be strained, especially in the hind legs. These injuries are caused by missteps, increased stress, or a particularly hard landing. As such, the injury is common in show horses that perform jumps or in dressage horses. Furthermore, a ligament injury can range from light to heavy – or in other words, from strain to a tear. This is a potentially serious injury, and recovery of a ligament can take months and up to a year. Of course, veterinary care is necessary, and plenty of rest throughout. And even when the ligament is healed, your horse will have to get back into action gradually and with plenty of patience and care. To prevent this injury from occurring, avoid overworking your horse or exercising on uneven and unpredictable ground. #5 AbrasionsJust like punctures, abrasions are perhaps the most common horse injury of all. They usually occur on the legs, especially the lower part, and can happen during work or exercise. Abrasions are varied and can range from scrapes to large open cuts and slashes. A common way they can occur is through low foliage, thorn bushes, barbed wire fences, sharp rocks, and anything in between. They can also be lighter or more serious, and depending on this, you can potentially treat them yourself, or call in a veterinarian. Either way, these abrasions will need to be cleaned and sanitized, because if left untreated, they can get infected and cause further trouble!

Top 10 Best Gentle Horse Breeds

Those who are new to the world of horses, and looking to take their first steps as proud horse owners, will often have issues finding the right breed to start with. Some horses can be hot-tempered, full of energy, and difficult to handle – not good for first-time owners. The ideal horse should be hardy, calm, loyal, and gentle, embodying all the positive traits that every owner will learn to appreciate and cherish. To that end, we’ve compiled a list of the top 10 best gentle horse breeds that are fantastic for beginners in every way. If you are looking to lay a good foundation with your very first horse, one of these breeds is bound to be a perfect choice.

10 Foods You Didn’t Know Could Harm Your Bunny

As a rabbit owner, it’s up to you to ensure your pet has a healthy, well-balanced diet that will meet all their dietary needs. In the case of rabbits, it’s fairly simple – they need unlimited amounts of grass hay such as timothy hay, and a selection of veggies with an occasional fruit treat. It’s clear that bunnies are herbivores, but that doesn’t mean that all plant-based foods are safe for them to eat! In fact, there is a range of different foods that you should never give to your rabbit, as the results could range from gastrointestinal upset to even death. Take a look at our list of 10 foods that are dangerous, toxic, or simply bad for bunnies to eat – and make sure you steer clear of them when picking out your pet’s next meal! Iceberg LettuceThis might come as a surprise but rabbits shouldn’t eat iceberg lettuce! Even though leafy greens are very much welcome to any bunny’s meal plan, iceberg lettuce doesn’t – it contains lactucarium, a chemical with an opiate-like effect that can be very dangerous to rabbits if ingested in large quantities. To boot, iceberg lettuce is very poor in nutrients, so it wouldn't contribute to your pet’s diet in the first place.GrainsWhile grains aren’t technically toxic or dangerous for rabbits – in fact, production rabbits are fed grain feed – you shouldn’t give any grains or grain-based products to your pet. It can lead to nutritional imbalance and obesity, which is the last thing you want for your bunny. Naturally, it goes without saying that any processed foods made from grains, such as crackers, bread, or pastries are an absolute no-no for rabbits.BeansWe all know that beans are not the gentlest on one’s digestive system – and these effects are only more severe for rabbits than humans. Any type of beans, raw or cooked, shouldn’t be fed to rabbits as it can seriously disrupt their digestion, cause gassiness, bloating, and issues with the gastrointestinal tract in general, which is a big problem for bunnies.AvocadoBelieve it or not, avocados are one of the most dangerous foods you could give to your rabbit! The reason for this is a substance called persin, which avocado contains in abundance in its skin, meat, and pit – and that compound just so happens to be highly toxic to rabbits. Even if they eat small amounts of avocado, the persin in it could cause breathing issues, and eventually heart failure.Onions or GarlicTo be more precise, rabbits shouldn’t eat any allium-type vegetable, which includes onions, leeks, garlic, chives, and shallots. These veggies contain an oxidant called n-propyl disulfide which causes hemolytic anemia in rabbits – in other words, the loss of red blood cells. Symptoms of hemolytic anemia include pale gums, dizziness, lethargy, and loss of appetite, to name a few. If left untreated, this condition can be fatal!PotatoesWhether raw or cooked, potatoes are definitely not the right type of food for your bunny! As a food high in starch, potatoes are extremely difficult to digest for a rabbit, and as such can cause gastrointestinal upset. Furthermore, raw potatoes contain a substance called solanine, which can cause lethargy, loss of appetite, and abdominal pain. And, if you were wondering about the rest of the potato plant – leaves, vines, and flowers of the potato plant are quite poisonous to rabbits, so it’s best to steer clear of everything potato-related to stay on the safe side.MushroomsNope, it’s not (just) wild, mysterious-looking mushrooms that can be poisonous – all mushrooms are potentially toxic to rabbits. The reason for this is mycotoxins, which are commonly found in mushrooms (both wild and cultivated), that are poisonous to rabbits. While mushrooms from the supermarket probably won’t be deadly to your bunny, they can still irritate their tummy and cause GI upset.Fruit Seeds or PitsWhen offering some fruit as a treat to your pet bunny, be sure to remove all pits and seeds from it, as many contain cyanide. Of course, you don’t want to risk toxicity by feeding your bunny seeds and pits of these fruits, even if the quantities are small – the best known examples of cyanide in seeds are apple and pear seeds, but you can also find it in apricot, peach, mango, cherry, and plum pits.RhubarbWhile you might love it in desserts, rhubarb is one of those plant-based foods that shouldn’t be a part of your pet’s diet. It contains large amounts of oxalic acid, which, if consumed in bigger quantities can cause bloating, swollen mouth, diarrhea, and lethargy. Oxalic acid also interferes with calcium absorption, so if you have rhubarb in your garden or leftovers in the kitchen – don’t feed it to your bunny!NutsNuts are not poisonous or toxic per se, but they don’t make a particularly good choice of food for rabbits, either – even though your bunny would undoubtedly enjoy nibbling on some. Not only that nuts can be a choking hazard for your pet, but they are also very high in fats, which is not compatible with a rabbit’s digestive system. As herbivores, they have a low-fat diet, and too much fatty foods (such as nuts) in their diet can cause serious digestive issues. In the end, it is important to mention that foods such as meat, dairy, processed human foods, sweets, chocolate, and so on are out of question, too – you should never feed your rabbit anything from your plate. Stick to approved veggies and fruits and you can rest assured that your bunny will stay happy and healthy!

Can’t Adopt Due to Sensitivity to Cat Allergens? No More Excuses.

The majority, however, give up on the idea of having a pet cat due to their sensitivities – even though it’s not an easy decision, for most it’s a necessary one. At least, that used to be the case. Nowadays, there is an option that may help you to have a cat without worrying about a flare-up. Purina LiveClear is a revolutionary cat food formula that works to reduce the major allergen in cats’ hair and dander – safely and. This allows people with sensitivity to cat allergens to fully enjoy the companionship of a feline.

Adoptable Dog of the Week – Mia

With a big heart and a playful attitude, this happy-go-lucky gal will brighten your every day! Our Adoptable Dog of the Week is Mia, a little over a year old Labrador Retriever mix from Conway, Arkansas. She is spayed, up to date on her vaccinations, heartworm negative (and on prevention), and doing great with her training. Mia gets along great with other dogs of all sizes but has never been around cats. She has limited experience with kids but did well with them. Mia’s TaleMia was left with an older disabled woman who couldn't provide for her physically or financially and was forced to surrender her as she couldn’t care for her, so she’s now looking for a loving family to give her the life she truly deserves. She is a friendly, energetic dog that is very playful and affectionate but doesn't realize how big she is. Mia would love to be a part of a family that’s outdoorsy and active and would take her on hikes and long walks, and make her a part of their adventures.While Mia can be a bit skittish around new people (mostly men), she eventually warms up to you once she realizes she doesn’t have anything to be afraid of. She’s a sweet, loving girl that will quickly become your most loyal and affectionate companion if you give her the chance. Mia is also smart and eager to learn – she is doing well with crate training and house training, and she’s also trained to use the indoor potty pads when needed. She is great with other dogs and would do well with a canine sibling in her new home, but hasn’t had the opportunity to meet a cat yet, so there’s no saying how she’d be around felines. She did well with kids the few times she had a chance to be around them, but keep in mind she’s very energetic and large, so no small children in the family.If you want to know more about Mia, contact ArkanPaws Animal Rescue for additional information.

10 Reasons Why Rabbits Make Great Pets

If you are looking to get a pet, but can’t (or don’t want to) adopt a cat or a dog, you’re probably considering your other options. Some pet owners find joy in sharing their life with a feathered friend, such as a clever African Gray or a pair of cute lovebirds, others are passionate about aquatics and enjoy caring for a shoal of exotic fish, and some prefer small animals such as hamsters, guinea pigs, ferrets, or rabbits – which consistently top the lists as some of the most popular pets around. Bunnies are so well loved for a number of reasons, starting from their cute looks to their lovable personalities and many in between. We’ve selected a few of the causes why rabbits are such popular companions for families of all shapes and sizes, so you can determine if a bunny is a right choice for you and your lifestyle. Read on and find out what are the 10 reasons why rabbits make great pets – it might be just what you need to know before adopting a bunny. Rabbits come in all shapes and sizesWhether you’re in love with fluffy bunnies, giant bunnies, tiny bunnies, bunnies with spots on their coat, or bunnies that have exotic colors, you will find what you are looking for. There are numerous different rabbit breeds to choose from, and their unique traits are often related only to their appearance and some slight changes in temperament, as they tend to be sweet, loving, and quite adaptable in general, no matter their breed. As a result, every type of owner – be they single, seniors, or a family with young kids, will certainly find a rabbit pet for their own liking. Rabbits don’t need a lot of spaceWith some pets, things become challenging when there is a lack of space. For example, if you live in a cramped studio, you can’t really consider adopting a large breed dog or a working breed that needs a big backyard to burn off excess energy. But with rabbits, space is not an issue, as even the bigger breeds don’t need as much room as some other pets do. A bunny will be fine with a reasonably sized enclosure in the corner of the room, a litter, and a bit of safe and enclosed space to exercise and stretch. Anything more than that is up to you and your abilities. So, even those that live in small homes can enjoy the company of the rabbit – without worrying about overcrowding or neglect! Rabbits are hardy animalsContrary to popular belief, rabbits are not fragile and frail. In fact, they can be quite hardy and tend to have good health. While rabbits are not impervious to diseases, there aren’t many serious illnesses that can affect them genetically, and most of the ailments that can happen are treatable by experienced veterinarians. Of course, a rabbit is only as healthy as you care for it. They are robust, sure, but still require your care and attention to stay that way. This means that their diet will have to be balanced and healthy, as well as their hygiene, exercise, and all the other parts of rabbit care. With all this taken care of, you can definitely count on your rabbit pet to be very resilient. Rabbits have a reasonably long lifespanIt is only natural that all owners would love their pets to be around for many long years. Some animals have longer lifespans than others, and some pets are very short-lived. But luckily, rabbits do not belong to this group! These animals have reasonable lifespans. On average, they live between 7 and 10 years, and many can live beyond that as well. This gives you plenty of time for bonding and creating some wonderful memories. Of course, as usual, this can only happen if you provide your pet with proper care and attention. Take care of them –and they will stay with you for long. Rabbits get along well with childrenRabbits make ideal family pets and make good first companions for children. As we already know, pets are important for children and can be a crucial part of their development. And rabbits are amongst the most adored pets! Kids will love these fluffy, adorable, and gentle balls of fur. But most importantly, they can learn a lot of important lessons from owning a rabbit. They will learn to be gentle with animals, to care for them and keep them healthy and safe, and to bond and play with them. Bunnies, in turn, can provide them company when you cannot, playing with them or simply cuddling. It is a match made in heaven, and bunnies make some of the best pets for children of all ages. Rabbits are quiet and won’t bother your neighborsSome owners find parrots or dogs too loud and have to find a more quiet pet. You might also be living in an apartment building, and simply can’t have a pet that makes noise due to neighbors complaining. This is not an issue if you get a bunny. Rabbits are very quiet animals and make almost zero sounds that can be considered loud. With a rabbit, there won’t be any risk of annoyance, being woken up, babies restless, or neighbors alarmed. Instead, you can get a good amount of peace and quiet, which can be ideal for snoozing, working from home, etc.Rabbits are clean animalsSome owners, understandably, would prefer a pet that isn’t a hassle to clean after. Poop, pee, loose hair, bird seed, feathers, food crumbs – different pets can leave all sorts of dirt behind them. This is natural and understandable, of course, but it simply isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. With rabbits, dirt is down to a minimum. Sure, they have to do their “business”, but they aren’t as messy about it as some other animals. Of course, a rabbit is only clean when they are litter trained – otherwise, they will simply pee or poop wherever they happen to be. But training them is not a great challenge, and it will pay off, in the long run, to do so.Rabbits are quite affectionate when socializedEvery owner would love a pet that is affectionate and loves to cuddle and doesn’t mind interaction with their owners. Luckily, when socialized early, rabbits are precisely like that – sweet, loving, and adoring of the attention their owners give them. Of course, some rabbits don’t like being handled and it’s important to note this. This is usually a consequence of poor training: you need to socialize and handle a bunny from an early age, in order to get them accustomed to human interaction and your hands. With this accomplished, however, the bunny will have no problem resting in your lap. Rabbits are relatively low-maintenance petsIf you live a busy life with plenty of daily chores, rabbits won’t really get in your way as cats or dogs can. These are generally considered to be low-maintenance pets, that won’t give you all that much hassle. Regular feed times, and a bit of cleanup, and they’re pretty much good to go. This, of course, does not mean you should neglect your rabbit – they will need mental stimulation, affection, interaction, and exercise in order to remain the best version of themselves. Still, if your day is especially busy, you can count on your bunny to not get in their way! Rabbits are intelligent animalsDid you know that bunnies can be real smarty pants? They might seem docile and lethargic at first glance, but don’t be fooled. These are intelligent and inquisitive animals, whose curiosity is often the instigator for some quirky and fun behavior. With a bunny, fun is always around the corner: they love to play, solve riddles, and play with special rabbit toys. They can even learn basic tricks, so don’t hesitate to try some training. You would be surprised at how smart they are, especially after a few years of living by your side. These are fast learners whose antics can really take you by surprise! ConclusionWhen you take all these reasons into account, it’s easy to see why rabbits are so loved by their owners and don’t lose their spot among the most popular pets decades back. They have many positive traits and are so adaptable that they make perfect pets for a range of owners, which is not something that can be said about many animals. They’re relatively easy to handle and take care of, and won’t be a constant hassle. Still, you’ll do good to remember that rabbits will need your attention and constant care – just like every other pet on the planet. Otherwise, your bunny won’t thrive or fulfill their potential. Be sure to take care of their needs, and they will remain steadfast companions for a good number of years.

Adoptable Dog of the Week - Scooter

This cutie pie is looking for some real special peeps to love him! Our Adoptable Dog of the Week is Scooter, a 4 years old Maltese mix from Sandston, Virginia. He is neutered, microchipped, up to date on his vaccines, and crate trained. Scooter needs to go to a home without any kids or other pets due to his resource guarding issues.Scooter’s TaleSweet, loving, and oh-so-cute, Scooter will be a perfect companion to a couple or a single looking for a four-legged companion to share their adventures with. He is affectionate, loves going on walks, and is quite smart to boot – he is already crate trained and behaves well on a leash. There’s no saying how much he could blossom and thrive with the right people by his side!However, Scooter needs an experienced adopter as he has issues with resource guarding – he guards his toys, food, and treats. He’d need people willing to work with him to overcome this issue, and might even need professional training to deal with it, which is something to consider before adopting this pretty boy. For this reason, it is recommended for Scooter to be the only pet in an adult-only home, even though he does get along great with other dogs – but can get feisty if they go near his food or toys. You might try to feed him separately from your dog to prevent this, but you’ll need to have previous experience with these types of situations. He doesn’t like cats, and young kids are a risk due to resource guarding, as he might nip and growl if a child tries to take his toys or treats.If you’ve fallen for this pretty little pooch and are willing to help him work through his behavior issues, contact Capital Area Rescue Effort (CARE) to learn a bit more about him and the adoption process.

A Complete Guide on Horse Grooming

Horses are among the most beautiful and elegant of all animals out there. But, this elegance and beauty aren’t low maintenance – they require a bit of your patient help and care to stay in their top form. Horses need to be groomed on a regular basis in order to be the best version of themselves. Neglect them, and their beauty can quickly fade. Still, if you are a first-time horse owner, we understand how horse grooming can seem like a challenging and difficult task to tackle – especially on a big and gracious animal. But it’s nothing to worry about. Horse grooming is not too difficult, especially if you follow these tips and tricks that we’ve prepared for you! #1 Keep your horse tetheredBefore you even begin with the grooming, you will want to secure your horse. By tethering their lead to a post or a wall, you will be certain that they can’t make sudden movements or elope. If you can find a suitable stall to do it in, great! Whatever the case, your horse’s movements need to be limited for this to work. Of course, if you are working with a horse that you do not really know, and you’re uncertain of their behavior, be extra careful. Some unruly horses can buck and kick you with their hind legs, which can potentially be fatal. Always ask about a horse’s behavior and tendencies before you groom them the first time. #2 Use the right toolsThe usual first step of grooming involves a curry comb. These special combs are usually made from plastic or rubber and involve a handle and a set of dull triangular teeth. They might look dangerous and harsh at first glance, but they won’t hurt your horse, but rather feel like a pleasant massage. The function of the curry comb is to dislodge any caked mud or dirt and shed loose hair. Interestingly, the comb also helps stimulate healthy blood flow which in turn produces natural oils and makes the coat shiny and healthy. Just don’t use it on the legs and head.Next up is a rigid body brush, which is essentially a handheld brush with stiff bristles. This is a great way to brush away all the dirt that the curry comb has loosened and to whisk away loose hair. After this is done, switch to a soft body brush, whose bristles are soft and gentle. This is a classic brush that gives you a finer finish and quickly removes all the loose dust and dirt. This brush is great for cleaning the legs and the head, as it removes that final layer of dust while still being gentle on their coat and skin.Be sure not to overlook the tail or the mane when grooming your horse. To groom these key beauty elements on a horse, you will need a special mane (and tail) brush. A horse’s mane is flowing, elegant, and beautiful, and requires frequent maintenance. It can get tangled and dirty, so use this special brush to bring it back to its stunning luster. The same goes for the tail, whose length will allow you to utilize long and even strokes for the perfect untangling. #4 Cleanliness from head to hoofNow, if your horse is especially dirty, you can give them a quick wash. For this, a classic soft sponge is ideal, as it allows you to go over the entire body while being gentle, and cleaning delicate soft spots as well. But if you are looking for a regular daily groom, you can skip this step. Once you are done with the brushing, your equine friend will already start looking spic and span. Now it is time to pay attention to the hooves, by using a special hoof pick. This is a curved metal tool that is quite useful for cleaning the hoofs of all the accumulated debris. Scrape away the caked mud on the front and dig out the dirt and the debris from the bottom – if you ignore the hooves for long, they can begin to hamper your horse’s walk. And that’s that – the basics of horse grooming in a few simple steps. As you can see, standard horse grooming is not a complex process. It requires a bit of patience and time and can be relaxing for both you and your horse. Just make sure to be thorough, cleaning all the parts of the body. Regular grooming can have multiple benefits for your horse – it’s not only for aesthetic purposes.

Gluten-Free Pumpkin Spice Dog Treats

The first leaf has fallen and so we’ve jumped on the Autumn bandwagon with our Gluten-Free Pumpkin Spice Dog Treats. Perfect for pooches with sensitivities, this fall favorite is gluten free. Plus, it comes packed with pureed pumpkin, which is amazing for a dog’s digestive system. On top of that, it contains of vitamins, such as vitamin A, E and C, as well as iron and potassium. But don’t dip one of these cookies in your pumpkin spice latte – these treats are for dogs only! Ingredients:2½ cups gluten free flour2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon ginger1 cup pumpkin puree1/2 cup unsweetened apple sauce1 egg1 tablespoon vegetable or olive oilDirections:1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together oil, pumpkin, applesauce, and egg until smooth.2. Fold in the flour, cinnamon, and ginger with a spatula and then knead with your hands until the dough is thoroughly mixed.3. Shape dough into a couple disks and cover in plastic wrap.4. Chill dough overnight.5. Preheat oven to 325° F. Line cookie sheets with parchment paper.6. Roll dough out to a thickness of 1/4 inch between two pieces of parchment paper. Cut out shapes using a cookie cutter.7. Place cutouts on parchment lined cookie sheets.8. Place in oven and bake for 30 minutes.9. Remove from oven and let cool on cooling racks for 2-3 hours. 10. Place treats in an airtight containers and store in refrigerator or freezer.

Ask the Animal Communicator: Parrot Screams From Morning Until Night

Dear Shannon, My new parrot, Sylvie, and I are a true love match. I rescued her when I went to the local SPCA to adopt a dog. Sylvie, a yellow-crowned Amazon parrot, had just arrived and the staff hadn’t quite figured out where to put her yet, so she was in her cage on the counter at the main intake desk. The moment she saw me, she came over to the corner of her cage closest to where I was standing and pressed her whole body against the bars. She started singing “you are my sunshine” and my heart just melted. But ever since she came home with me, she has gotten louder and louder. I own a townhome and share one wall with a neighbor, who is home most days and has started to complain. I work outside the home and I don’t know how to keep Sylvie calm and quiet while I’m gone during the day. The SPCA didn’t have much history on Sylvie and they couldn’t tell me how old she is or what her life was like before she came to me. So I’m basically at my wit’s end. Can you help? Smitten and stressed parrot mama DoloresShannon’s reply:Hi Dolores,Situations like what you describe with Sylvie can be complicated. We want to look at her situation from all aspects such as health, species-specific traits, past history, current situation. So of course I want to encourage you to have Sylvie checked by an avian veterinarian just to rule out any underlying health issues. That aside, animal communication can definitely help with some of this, and we will explore what Sylvie had to share when I talked with her. When I tune in with Sylvie, I do get the sense she is past the point of parrot adolescence – what some parronts (parrot parents) like to call the “terrible twos.” This is a time period when parrots are reaching sexual maturity. For larger birds in particular, it can be a time when they bond intensely to one human family member and reject all the other humans in the family. And it can be a time of acting out, screaming, throwing temper tantrums and all the other displays we often see in young humans going through the same process.Because my sense from Sylvie is that she is older – perhaps around eight or 10 or even in her early teens – this would theoretically rule out pure hormonally-motivated vocalizing. In fact, when I ask Sylvie what the screaming is about, she broadcasts pure anxiety. She keeps showing me a woman walking away from her and the further away the woman gets, the more Sylvie’s stress level rises. By the time the woman disappears from Sylvie’s line of sight, she is screeching with panic.Even from a purely species-specific standpoint, this doesn’t surprise me. As a longtime parrot lover and parrot carer myself, I am aware that nearly all parrot species are social animals both in a wild setting and in captivity. Yellow-crowned Amazon parrots are known to be especially social, congregating in small groups during daylight hours and regrouping in larger flocks to roost at night. Being alone at any time is super scary to this prey species, as the birds rely on each other to keep a sharp eye out for dangers like approaching predators.When I ask Sylvie what her idea of a perfect day looks like, she shows me an unmistakable scene of you being there with her all day long. You are singing together, eating together, walking around the house together, driving in the car together, running errands together and doing everything together. So we know Sylvie is going to need some extra help to cope with your absence on work days. To identify the things that are most likely to help her, I used applied kinesiology (also known as muscle testing). Sylvie tested positive for soothing music, natural sounds of birdsong (I recommend Pet Acoustics Avine for this), essential oils (you can work with a pet aromatherapist trained in zoopharmacognosy to learn how to allow Sylvie to self-select the ones that will help her the most) and parrot foraging and puzzle toys to help keep her mentally busy during the day. Sylvie also tells me she wants you to talk to her each morning and tell her exactly what to expect during the day. Tell her when you will leave and when you will be home. If that changes during the day, talk to her on the inside and tell her when you will actually return home. This will help her feel connected to you and reduce the chances of avian panic. Before closing out my conversation with Sylvie, I did three rounds of emotional freedom technique, aka EFT tapping, to help her move some of her residual anxiety out of her body. The phrase I used with Sylvie while I tapped was “even though I feel utterly panicked when Mom (you) leaves and I am afraid she will never come back, I affirm that I am the pure and perfect parrot just the way I am.” I encourage you to download my free EFT for Pets four-part tapping series https://animallovelanguages.com/eft-for-pets/ to learn how you can use EFT for Sylvie at home. I also encourage you to use EFT to ease your own anxiety about leaving Sylvie, which is also covered in the four-part EFT for Pets series.Dolores, I truly hope this information helps you to help Sylvie settle into her new forever home with you. Please do keep in touch and let me know how you both are doing.From my heart,Shannon

Very Cherry Berry Blast Dog Treat Recipe

We love fruit… and so do our pooches. If you want to bake up some sweet treats, give our Very Cherry Berry Blast Dog Treat Recipe a try. Cherries have vitamin A and C, fiber, antioxidants, melatonin, and other beneficial nutrients. You can use frozen or fresh sweet or tart cherries (not Maraschino cherries) – it’s up to you. Just be sure that they’re pitted before making these treats, as they can damage their teeth, cause blockages in the gut, and contain trace amounts of cyanide.Makes about 24 medium-sized treats.Ingredients:1/2 cup blueberries or raspberries, sliced1/2 cup cherries, pitted and sliced1/2 cup apple sauce1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour1 teaspoon cinnamonInstructions:1. Preheat oven to 350° F degrees and line baking sheet with parchment paper.2. In a food processor or blender, puree blueberries and cherries until smooth.3. In a large bowl, add all the ingredients and mix until a dough forms.4. Once well mixed, place dough onto a floured surface, rolling out to ¼ inch thickness. Cut with cookie cutters and place on them on the baking sheet.5. Place in oven and bake for 20 minutes.6. Remove from oven and place on cooling racks for 2-3 hours. 7. Place in airtight container and store in fridge or freezer.

Carrot and Applesauce Soft Dog Treat Recipe

Your senior dog has special needs, and this may include issues with his teeth. He may not be able to handle hard food such as kibble or treats. Your best bet is to make a treat just for senior dogs – try our Carrot and Applesauce Soft Dog Treat Recipe on for size. Packed with ingredients that he’ll love (and are good for him), you’ll be able to give him a homemade treat that’s easy to chew.Makes about 25 cookiesIngredients:2 cups flour 2 teaspoons baking powder1/2 cup applesauce1 medium sized carrot, shredded 1 cup oatmeal 1 egg 1/4 cup milk (or almond or oat milk)Directions:1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Line baking sheets with parchment paper.2. In medium bowl, mix flour and baking powder.3. Add applesauce, carrot, and oatmeal to the flour mixture. Mix until well combined.4. Add in egg and milk. You may have to use your hands to knead the dough to ensure all ingredients are combined. 5. Scoop 2 tablespoon portions onto prepared baking sheet. 6. Place in oven and bake for about 20 minutes.7. Remove from oven and allow to cool.8. Keep in airtight container and store in refrigerator or freezer.

How Long Should It Take to Train Your Dog the 5 Basic Commands?

Dogs are willing learners and while some pet owners may opt to go the dog trainer route, it’s not that hard or time-consuming to get your little buddy up to speed on the five main commands. They include Sit, Stay, Leave It, Lay/Down and Heel. With name recognition or Recall/Come, leading the charge. And this time spent training your dog is a great way to bond with a new pooch and set expectations you’re both comfortable with.So, plan to train 3 to 5 times a day with sessions lasting no longer than 10 minutes each. After that, it stops being fun for your dog, he’ll begin to disengage, and you’ll lose the enthusiasm needed to keep him learning.Want to know how to do it yourself? We’re sharing some rewards-based training tips below:Recall/Come Before being able to train your dog on any trick or command, he needs to be paying attention. For dog owners, the term “easier said than done” is probably the first thing that springs to mind, right? But with rewards-based training, it’s easy (or at least easier). It refers to rewarding your dog when he gets the command right versus scolding him when he gets it wrong. So, keep a pocketful of treats on the ready when training.Start by holding a high-value treat close to your face or chest area and calling his name. Now, you have him not only looking your way but fixated on what you’re holding. Call him over, and when he responds appropriately, offer him the treat. Do this frequently throughout the day and gradually extend the time between him coming to you and receiving his treat.A variation on this command includes clicker training. It’s a small, hand-held device with a unique, high-pitched click that you activate the moment your dog responds to your call. He looks over, you click the clicker. He comes to you and you click the clicker and immediately offer him a treat as a reward. This association technique is great for dogs who may be easily distracted or hard of hearing. And it can be used when teaching all of the commands.The goal of the Recall command is that your dog will a) come to you when called and b) look your way frequently to see if you might have something tasty for him. This last rationale is important if you’re at a leash-free and he’s out of ear range. You want him to keep visual track of you and be ready to return at a moment’s notice.SitProbably the easiest of the commands. Use the recall command to draw your dog over to you. Some dogs will instantly assume a seated position, but you want to know he’s doing this on command versus out of comfort. Hold the treat above his head and deliver the Sit command. When he eventually sits, offer him praise and a treat. For clicker training, click the moment his derriere hits the ground, then offer up the treat so he begins to associate the two.DownUse the Recall/Come command, followed by the Sit command. Reward your pet each time he responds to your request and performs the action you’re commanding. Now that he’s seated and looking your way, say “Down”, then take a treat and slowly lower it down in front of your dog until you’re holding it between his two front paws. Slide it out along the ground slowly and his nose and body will follow the scent of the treat until he’s laying down. For rescue dogs, this can be slow learning because it requires them to be positioned in a vulnerable position for dogs. Be sure to offer him his treat and praise, and if you’re clicker training, click at the same time his treat is dispensed.StayThis is a trickier command to teach when dogs are young and distracted, old and bored, or just love you so much they want to follow you every time you get up to leave. So, expect to be patient when training this command. And the American Kennel Club stresses the need for a start and finish to the Stay command. Choose a word to be used exclusively to release your pet from the Stay position. It could be “OK” or “finished” - you pick. Now, because it should be strictly for releasing your pet from his Stay, avoid choosing his name, “come”, or any other command word that might confuse him when used later.When your pet has assumed a Sit or Down position, use the Stay command and within a few seconds, use the release word and issue a treat. Gradually increase the length of time between the command and the release word. Also, start taking a few steps away between the command and the release. Your goal is to have your dog stay and wait for you to return and reward him. Not get up and follow. This particular command could take several days to master. Leave ItWhether your dog is roaming free at a dog park or leashed and walking the city streets, he can snatch up something he considers tasty, in the blink of an eye. That’s why the Leave It command is so important. When issued, your dog should immediately drop whatever he’s picked up. So, to keep your dog safe, training this command needs to be high on your list.Here's how to start. Hold out both arms with enclosed fists – each holding a treat. Your dog will zero in on one of your fists and, at that moment, say Leave It. He’ll continue to sniff and lick at your fist. When he eventually stops, open the other fist and give him the treat. You’re trying to show him that when he leaves it, he gets a reward.Repeat this command over a few days and each time your dog heads toward the treat in your enclosed fist, say Leave It. Your initial goal is for him to immediately move away from that fist when he hears those words. When he does, reward him with the treat from the other fist. Over time, you want your dog to look up and make eye contact when you say Leave It, then wait for his reward.After he’s picked up on the term Leave It, you need to put him to the test. You’ll need both a ho-hum basic treat as well as a high-value tasty one for this training session. Put the more basic treat on the ground and cover it. When your dog heads for it, say Leave It. When he stops or hesitates, offer him the better treat. Your goal is to have your dog associate something better and tastier, waiting for him if he leaves what’s on the ground, untouched.HeelNo one wants their dog tugging and pulling when out for a walk, and that’s where the Heel command is so important. Choose which side you want your dog walking on – left or right – and remain consistent or you’ll find them switching it up and going back and forth. Next, align your dog by your side and offer him a couple of treats for remaining in that position. Start by taking just one or two steps and as your dog moves in synch, give him another treat for encouragement. If he begins to tug and charge ahead, change the direction you’re walking and begin again by having him align himself - in a standing or seated position – with the side of your leg.Don’t crouch down or lean over to offer your pet his treat. Dispense from a standing position and at your knee or hip level so as not to break form.Gradually increase the distance travelled between treats. Your goal is to be able to take your dog on walks that allow him to enjoy the mental stimulation provided by new sights, sounds and smells (so allow him some exploration time).

Horse Riding for Absolute Beginners

While incredibly fun and exciting, horse riding can also be challenging. It takes a lot of practice, a lot of preparation, and a special connection between the horse and the rider. More often than not, it takes years of patient work for riders to become professionals at riding. Of course, everyone has to start somewhere, and all beginnings can be challenging. If you are a beginner horse rider, don’t rush into things. Getting too far ahead of yourself can lead to accidents, injuries, and potentially fatal situations. Horse riding accidents are no joke, so before mounting a horse, follow these tips and tricks reserved for horse riding for absolute beginners!What to Know Before Riding a Horse – Step By Step Process for BeginnersIt would be silly to think that absolute beginners can’t ride a horse. It is not logical to think so, since everyone was an absolute beginner at one point. Still, you should not rush into it unprepared, or without professional supervision. There are many aspects to horse riding, from the abilities of the horse, to the environment, and then to you personally. Only when everything is in balance, can riding begin. First and foremost, is the safety equipment. When riding horses, safety is paramount. These are magnificent and powerful animals you are working with, and such power carries with it plenty of potential danger. Before you get up on a horse, put on your safety helmet, designed for horse riders especially. You should never mount up without your helmet on, even after years of riding. Remember that once astride, you are several feet up in the air. If you happen to fall off a horse at high speed, and from such a height, hitting your head on the ground can be fatal. It goes without saying that helmets should always be on. If you can, secure your riding boots and other horse-riding equipment. Every bit counts, not only because of safety but because of easier riding as well. Once the equipment is secured, it's riding time. Of course, if you never rode a horse, you should not begin without supervision and all on your own. Do it with professionals and on specially trained horses. But even so, you will want to stay alert at all times and composed. Don’t get too excited or relaxed, but stay on your toes mentally. Keeping on top of the situation can help you master the basics faster.When mounting up on your ride, you will want someone to hold the horse and keep it steady. A fidgety and scared horse can make mounting difficult. Now, supposing that your saddle is all hooked up and secured properly, you can proceed to climb up. Place your left foot into the stirrup while standing at your mount’s side. Don’t push your entire foot into the stirrup – just the front part. Keep the reins loose in your hand, gently rise up on your stirruped foot and swing your free leg (the right one) over the horse and onto the other side of the horse. With that, you should be able to gently sit down into the saddle and place your other foot into the other stirrup. Simple as that, you are on a horse. Of course, if this procedure is too challenging for you, you can use a special mounting block or a step ladder.Now it is on to the riding. Your horse riding instructor should tell you all the details, and the “riding” will probably be a light walk or a slow trot. Nevertheless, you should be as relaxed as possible, and not frightened. If you’re cool and collected, your horse will be calm as well. Keep the reins loose in your hands at all times and sit straight, tall, and firm. When it is time for your mount to move forward, you should give them a gentle nudge or squeeze with both of your heels. If this signal is too soft and the horse does not register it, you can bump with the heels instead, albeit gently. This is the classic cue for beginning to walk. Any other instructions from your riding instructor should also be taken into account. While walking, you can simply turn into a light trot – or a “horse jog”. Just bump the horse lightly again, in the same way as before, and they should take the cue to speed up. You will notice that the movements are different, and a lot bumpier as the horse jolts up and down. This might be odd at first, or even uncomfortable, but remember that it is all about practice and getting used to it. Listen to the instructor’s tips and rules, and you’ll be good. In time, you should be able to learn galloping, canter, and all the other paces of horse riding. Be perseverant! Follow the teacher’s instructions about stopping the horse. Slow the movement down to a slow walk, and gently pull on the reins. This is the signal for stopping, and can be accompanied by a low vocal command: “Oooh”. Once halted, you can slowly dismount. Again, keep the reins loose in your hands, and then complete the mount-up procedure, but in reverse! It shouldn’t be too challenging, especially with your riding instructor by your side. And that’s that! In a few simple moves, you can complete your first beginner’s horse ride. Again, do not do it unsupervised, with an untrained horse, or with other beginners. Injuries can occur in such situations. But in a supervised environment, you should be ok. Everyone can learn to ride horses if they are able: just be patient, confident, and take things one step at a time!

Ask the Animal Communicator: Family’s New Pet Rabbit Isn't Friendly

Dear Shannon, We got a new pet rabbit last week. My kids saw him at the pet store and just fell in love. I have to admit I did too. We each held him for a few minutes at the store and he was very calm. My kids named him Max. We bought all the supplies and got him set up at home and of course my kids wanted to play with him right away. But honestly now that he’s home he seems terrified – so much so that he nipped my daughter and now she is afraid to touch him. Luckily his bite didn’t break her skin, but next time it might and if that happens, my husband says he will get rid of Max. I don’t want this to happen but I’ve tried to handle Max as well and he nipped me too. What was supposed to be a fun adventure has turned into a real source of worry for us and I don’t know what to try next. Can you help? Gina the newbie rabbit mamaShannon’s reply:Hi Gina,Thank you for writing. I can feel your anxiety on behalf of your whole interspecies family and your desire to do the right thing by all. Rabbits are increasingly in the limelight in the pet market, so much so that they are often marketed as low maintenance and low cost alternatives to more traditional pets like dogs and cats. But just like it can take some time to build a bond with a new puppy or kitten, so too can it take some time for a new rabbit to warm up to you. This is especially true when you are wanting to handle, cuddle or play with your new rabbit.What I love most about your question is that you really want to invite Max to the conversation. Thank you! This is something too many animal guardians don’t think to do and it really can make a difference. Animal communication is not the same as rabbit socialization or training. The work I do allows me to actually talk to Max using a sensory and intuitive shared language. So the first thing Max shares with me is that he misses his mom and litter mates. From what he shows me, Max has gone through a lot of changes very rapidly, leaving his mom and siblings, then leaving his home and winding up at the pet store in a cage all by himself. And then all of a sudden he left the pet store and went home with you. So he shows me that right now he feels pretty scared and stressed. And this is definitely not the right state of mind or heart to be feeling all cuddly and open to having even more new experiences!When I do a body scan on Max, I feel two distinct physical sensations: one sensation feels like a headache and the other sensation feels like a belly ache. (A body scan is a technique animal communicators often use to feel more deeply what it is like to be that animal. Body scans can also be used as a non-medical, non-diagnostic tool to detect the possibility of an animal’s physical or emotional discomfort.) This tells me a veterinary visit may be in order just to make sure all is well with Max’s general health and diet. I asked Max what he wants and needs from you to be open to being handled. He shows me a quiet room in low light conditions. I see him sitting inside a small enclosed hut of some sort. And he shows me each of you coming into the room and just sitting with him quietly – not all of you at once, either, but one or two at a time. I also asked Max how you will know he is ready to be handled by which I mean picked up and stroked. He shows me a mini-movie of him emerging from his hiding spot and hopping towards you, extending his nose towards you to sniff you and take the treats you offer him.Gina, I hope this information is helpful to you and your family. Little Max may well grow into a loving, affectionate and wonderful family companion. And the best way you can encourage this outcome is to be patient and gentle with Max as he adjusts to all the sudden changes in his life and gets settled into his new life with you. From my heart,Shannon

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